Steve

Roy, as what Bl4cK32 said I took the statement that 'unlike all these trailer ponies I want to prove it can be done' and the I want to drive it on the street' to mean he wasnt talking about a car like Keirs, as there is nothing to prove there, it has been done. Not saying there is anything wrong with Kiers car, but really, its not what most would call 'streetable' more like , 'its driven on the street' - world of difference

Er, yeah, if you re- read my post, you will notice that i said "I" dont believe it can be done, I also said, do prove me wrong, because I would love to see it, I also said 'good luck'. You also mentioned that people are saying 'it cant be done', well hey I didnt say that, and, if as you pointed out Kier is already doing it, why even bring up that it cant be done. Bottom line, I didnt say you were trying to build a car like Keirs, you mentioned his car, I didnt say you couldnt do it, I said 'I dont believe its possible', you are the only one here who is saying 'it cant be done' So really, who is the dick? perhaps you should read peoples posts before you go jumping off the deep end? you remind me of a spoilt child. if you cant handle someone elses opinion, or allow someone else to have an opinion, WTF are you doing on a public forum.

I am using Type R, supposed to be rated to 600hp, can be plumbed back, also it has facility pressure line from in front of the throttle body, to help it lift (lower one in the pic) - good for high boost. Holds fine with 1.7bar. Bought if from greenline for around $300, here they retail up to around $600. Have also heard the Tials are good.

found this on the net about 13mb, but very worth it. go to www.orsm.net and scroll down to where the drift vid is. Enrico, dont stop at all the pics on the way down or you'll never get there:) EDIT: ******WARNING****** SOME OF THE IMAGES ON THE SITE HOSTING THIS VIDEO MAY BE CONSIDERED INAPPROPRIATE IN THE WORKPLACE - JUST ASK GFXMAN

Spoke to my mate, can pick up ex japan, new for less (around 510), as an ecu there is no duty, and the yen is strong.

well thats me out of ideas, I have a twin plate which chatters when the clutch is in, but never heard of a single being noisey.

1-1.2bar, max power is dependent on soo many things, but bottom line is I wouldnt have a clue - have seen 230rwkw at 1.2bar with 8000 redline on cefiro RB20, minimal other mods.

oops:)

Heat shield is good for 2 reasons: it will reduce underbonnet temps that may otherwise have an adverse effect on wiring and other components the more heat you can retain in the turbine housing, the higher the gas velocity, this spools up the turbo quicker and will reduce back pressure which in turn increases cylinder scavenging Upside to removing the heat shield - cant think of any.

did you replace the throw out bearing?

no need to be a dick. and why the are you trying to prove you could build a car like Kier's, its already been done? nothing new

Is it a twin plate?

GunMetalr33, who told you a Z32 fuel pump flows better than a GTR pump. AFAIK they are both the same pump.

so you can do both street and strip. Personally I dont think it will happen, but I would love to have to eat my words. Good luck.

:uh-huh:

legend, using 256/8.8mm inlet, 264/9mm exh HKS cams. Absolutely no probs to 7500rpm.

Jay, yep basically. If you could imagine the 'ways' referr to the locking characteristics of the diff, 1 locks one way, ie accelleration, 1.5 locks on accel, half locks on decel, 2 ways locks two ways accel and decel. skids, really, 1 way is fine, very predictable when accelerating, but wont lock when you brake, so if for some reason you need to brake into a corner, less likely to kick the back out.

$500 is a very, very good price for a decent second hand 2 way diff. Realistically expect to pay 800-1000 for a good one. I have been looking for one for a while, cheapest (until now) I have seen is $850, dearest around 2K. Did I mention I just picked up a 1 way for $350:D

not really, 9mm lift is only step one.

You can use standard springs, bloody hope so anyways as I am sitll using my standard ones. This was the advice I was given and no probs yet, buy havent turned redline up past 7500 yet - no valve bounce. Not totally sure about cam timing, so far I have not had them dialled in what I would call properly, but seemed to respond well to around 6 degrees of retard on the exhaust. Inlet I am still running VCT.

hks specs are here: http://www.hksusa.com/categories/more.asp?id=1092 If you do a search, there are many comments on both turbos, well not alot specifically on GT2540, but a few on HKS 2530 and HKS 2540. Summary, 2540 good for drag, not much else, 2530 killer on the street or track.

HUGE thanks to Duncan, got a 1 way off powerplay for $350 delivered to Adelaide:D:D:D

P1E, I think you are safe with the fuel pump

weird? its an interceptor, Anyways, my mate has a grey import, so no aussie delivered anything

gotta name? all the importers I know if here seem to want big bucks for any aftermarket bits.