Steve

A know a guy who had an RB20 powered cefiro, HKS GT2530 turbo made 230rwkw at 1.2 bar with 8200rpm redline, fuel cut defender, stock ecu, fmic, pod, GTR fuel pump and 'tweaked' fuel pressure and stock ecu. Boost came on hard, very hard, at around 3-3.5Krpm (from the passenger seat, hard to see exactly when the car was going sideways all the time:), the power band was wide enough to pull hard all the way to redine - it felt like it had alot more than only 230rwkw It had totally stock internals, and this guy drove his car hard at least twice a week, it was his drift car, and the engine lasted 2 years and was still going strong when he sold it. The car weighed 1240kgs, he only took it down the 1/4 once, with around 200rwkw (before he upgraded to the 2530) and it pulled a 12.4 on slicks. If you want to know more, give D1 Garage a call and ask to speak to James, it was his car, and I am sure he could even do you a great deal on a turbo too, as he has excellent contacts in japan.

I already have wires for lights going to my old boost gauge, but it only reads 20psi, so I am upgrading to a 2 bar one. the temp guage can be used for oil or water, I am going to use it for oil. Bloody instructions are in Japanese, go figure:)

Hi, Anbody wired up a greddy temp guage or boost guage? On the temp guage (electronic) I have 4 wires, black, white, red and orange, on the boost guage (mechanical), it is only black and white? My theory so far Black - earth White - light switch Red - positive constant Orange - ignition on I am pretty comfortable about black and white, but would like any input, as I dont want to have to buggerise around if I get it wrong, or possibly (as BOOSTD puts it) let the smoke out. So if anybody has wired one of these, or any greddy guage, please let me know how you did it:) Cheers Steve

Dont the heads flow around 95% efficiency? Isnt it a big risk to start messing with 95%, for so little gain, there is huge chance of error? Match porting manifolds on the other hand....

Dont think so, it survived Danny! if you can believe it. Danny was saying a little while back (week or so) how well it performed without anything giving up.

None taken:) I thought that perhaps someone has got a bodgey one, or didnt know how to set it up properly, or I just got lucky, but then again, I am not the only one that is happy with it. Like I said before, if you just want to set and forget (memory is not battery volatile, so you can disconnect it as long as you like without upsetting it) the power fc boost control function is good. Most people I know just set the boost where they want it and leave it. You are right about the features though. If I was after an standalone, I think I would be leaning toward the Profec or Blitz

All the diagrams I have seen for external gate (not many), and the way I have my gate set up is with a line from just after the turbo outlet to the bottom of the gate, and a Tee off that via the soleniod to the top of the gate. There is no vacuum there (because it is before the TB?), which I have tested by fitting a vacuum guage, and it works well without the problems you describe. If you are having trouble understanding what I mean, have a look on the Apex USA website, and download the AVCR PDF, has nice pics. Good luck.

Its not a massive difference in where boost is made, more so in how it is made. 0.61 was like a lightswitch - just nuts, 0.87 is more progressive, but still pulls hard when it gets serious:) And R31Nismoid, it is an RB25, RB20 - hmm, make sure you wind that redline right;) Another thing too, bigger the exhaust housing, lower the back pressure, less detonation.

Oh, and I was thinking of trying to push around 340-350rwkw just for the hell of it already - gotta see if the turbo will do it! I reckon it will.

er, sure:D anyone got spare RB26 rods and pistons to donate to the cause?

Not a scerrick:)

Well, with 0.87 turbine housing boost is now coming in alot earlier, hard to know exactly, but experimenting with peak hold on power fc, I now get 1.2bar at 4200rpm, 3rd gear. ( and it was [email protected], not 280:D:p, 270 at 1.1bar, 300 at 1.5bar - top end was choking, which it doesnt feel like it is doing anymore:) -fitted new 90mm catback) - feels stonger everywhere now, on and off boost - but havent re-dynoed yet, so just seat of the pants, cant wait to get it up and push the redline to 8000rpm (before the exhaust upgrade power peaked at only 7000rpm before tapering back a little.) anyways the car pulls hard, but boost doesnt come in quite as hard as with 0.61 housing (1bar at appox 3000rpm) - car was stepping out in 4th at 90-100kph and only a bit more than lazy accellerating - made it very scary to drive on the road in traffic, cos boost was like an on/off switch, and when it came on the back end would step out every time with as little as 1.2bar - the only way to control the car was by turning boost down:( I can actually control boost with the right foot to a fair degree now, which is really nice, more boost, just push the right foot in a bit further. So gentle traffic driving, stays in traffic off boost no probs, at lights or if overtaking. I have 1.7bar set for the road, vs the 1.0 with the smaller housing. Under 0.5bar, the boost comes in very linearly, from approx 0.5bar, she starts pulling hard. but the best part is now I can control the boost ramp with my right foot to a fair degree, so no more surprises in heavy traffic - really is very nice to drive and very controllable. All in all, alot better for the street, and much happier with the 0.87now, but wouldnt mind going a 0.73 to see how it compares (anybody got a spare one they want to sell/loan me?) For interest too, and comparison to trust turbos, HKS rate their turbine housing sizes: 0.61 = 8cm 0.73 = 10cm 0.87 = 12cm thats what the tags on the housings say when you buy them new anyways. HKS actully recommend the 0.87 for the 3037 kit they sell for RB25. I have done cams too (256/264) but I also dropped CR to 8.6:1 which I think it is fair to say would offset the increase from the cams to a fair degree. anyway, sorry I waffled a bit Steve PS Lachlan, can you pm me the name and contact details of your dyno guy? Cheers

I have been told the lifespan of a cat, to be actually doing its job (not when it gets blocked up) is only a couple of years, and no more than 80,000kms. this may be why the emissions standards of ADR37 only apply for 5years/80,000

Hmm, some more perspective, $800 for a head gasket and change vs $800 for a head port, what about fit and remove, new head gasket, disassemble/rebuild head? All adds up. If you can get a head removed, disassembled, port polish reassembled and fitted for $800, I dont think you are paying the same prices as the general public. So, lets look at head gasket approx $400, vs port polish approx $700, then you have to allow for the dissasembe/reassemble of the head too. Not really a cheaper option. Cams, yep, worthwhile, but so is a plenum:D

Up to 1K

What is wrong with them? Have you used one? I have absolutely no probs with mine, works like a charm. Same solenoid as the AVCR. Definately a stand alone EBC will give you more features though.

That was a bit tongue in cheek, as sydneykid has said repeatedly, the results from his testing of the plenum (dyno, road or both????) have always been negative, ie, the stock setup performed better. I am very, very happy with my trust plenum, money well spent IMO

Benefit of head gasket (and dropping CR)- 40deg day, 1.7bar, 3deg more ignition than my tuner (tunes a 9sec GTR) usually runs with similar setup (minus the gasket, and he got paranoid, it wasnt the car that was showing problems), 12:1 air fuel ratios, 309rwkw and only 18 on the power fc knock sensor, on the road - on standard 98ron. I am happy with the results. Since fitting a better cat back, power has increased (seat of the pants) and knock has gone down further. I did cams at the same time, and the supposed waste of money trust plenum, but off boost and throttle response is definately improved. Ok there are other ways to skin a cat, but it works for me. The HKS head gasket has metal stoppers around the pistons and a rubberised coatingl over the rest of the gasket so its not necessary to prep the head and block any more than if fitting a stock gasket. Just put it on and bolt up the head.

I dont know, sorry. I believe either D1 Garage or JMS would be able to provide you with one - but of course, its for 'racing use only'. If you have a 3" cat, you could always get a straight pipe welded in? For 'racing use only'

NGK BCPR6ES gapped to 0.8mm should do the trick.

Dont have to pull the whole engine apart, just remove radiator and disconnect just about everything attached to the head/plenum/turbo. I seriously suggest if you dont realise how much work would be involved by lifting the hood and having a look, it may be worth getting someone else to do it. I was quoted $300-500 to have a head gasket changed (me supply gasket). Ended up getting cams and plenum done at the same time so it cost a bit more.

No way you will fit a supra cooler in the location of the stock one. Just turn your boost down, and save for a decent cooler. The stock coolers are crap, if you fit two, you will have twice the pressure drop, ie twice the crap. IF you can find an R34GTT cooler, it would be worth changing, but not a huge improvement and a bit of rooting around to fit it. I think expecting any money at all for your stock intercooler is a bit optimistic, mine is on the dump. people will just about give them away (or in my case throw them away) as they are pretty much useless and have no real resale value (unless you find someone unfortuneate enough to put a hole in, or get a leak in the stock one)

can you give a bit more info? Mods?

Dont worry about iridiums, not worth the money. Copper plugs do a good job at a fraction of the price. I had iridiums, whilst on the dyno changed to coppers, and the performance actually improved, but most importantly, detonation levels measured by the power fc dropped.

rob77, I know someone who has a pipe only hanging off the back of an SR20, and its acutally not alot louder than the N1 system, if at all. Only difference is it sounds a bit more aressive if you know what I mean. He also has an apexi flap in, and with it shut, makes less noise than a N1 system - but still has its pretty aggressive note.