Steve

If you are still running the initail map, have you tried a reset? Might fix the problems, quick and easy with out any downsides. Might need to make sure the boost control is switched off after the reset, not sure whether default is on or off. I had no boost cut with base map on my power fc. The ignition retard at 3000rpm seems a bit strange. With base map my car went alot harder than stock ecu (series 1 gtst).

ignition cut at 5psi? I dont think so, somethings wrong here (I may be wrong). With power fc you should be able to run as much boost as you want, anytime, AFAIK

For next time, D1 have a few tyres, might be worth giving them a shot if you are having problems.

Oh, and Ulrich metals sell the 2.4 by 1.6m rolls - $164

If you had only posted up 1 day ago. I just gave a 2m roll to tilbrooks, the mesh is about the same size as grepins.

40mm, 1.7bar, 309rwkw but getting choked by the exhaust. 285rwkw at 1.2bar.

so you reckon you should drive around with water constantly pouring into the turbo??? Wouldnt it be alot easier to just get it tuned properly? then if it starts knocking pull a couple of lbs boost, or a couple degrees of timing? Maybe add a couple of litres of tolulene? Pretty bodgey form of knock reduction IMHO. I know that people use water injection for extra power, I can understand it for a trip down the 1/4, but on the street? No thanks.

If you are after stock parts, try D1 Garage or JMS. I have always found tilbrooks quite accomodating, I wanted to dial in my cams, spoke to them yesterday, they are doing it thursday. All the work I have seen come out of their is absolutely first rate, and they know skylines inside out and back to front. Are you getting the car complied? or just defects removed so you can register it?

To add to edgaskets comments, the combustion process is a controlled burn, with a flame front being started by the spark plug. Detonation, or knock is when the air/fuel mixture spontaneously ignites in the cylinder BEFORE the flame font - it is acutally an explosion, not a controlled burn. This causes massive pressure to be generated in the cylinder, and can blow holes in pistons or smash ringlands (they are between the rings on the side of the piston). Even forged pistons can be destroyed by detonation, as the force generated by detonation is that powerful, it is an explosion:). Infact argueably forged pistons can be more easily damaged by knock as they are more brittle than standard (cast) pistons, they tend to be better designed though - their main benefit being that they dont retain heat, and therefore the cylinder will run cooler, meaning less likely to knock. As mentioned, their are many different causes of knock, some things that will cause an engine to knock: high load - eg, going up a steep hill in too high a gear, a hot day or high engine bay temps - raises the intake charge air temp (different causes here too), adding boost - as the more air is compressed the hotter it gets poor intercooling - heat thing again:) also remeber an intercooler may become heat soaked, such as when you are sitting at the lights on a hot day for a period of time. poor fuel - octane rating is a measure of the fuels resistance to knock or detonation, some people like to add a few litres of tolulene to increase its resistance to knock and there fore allow more timing more boost and ultimately more power. It can also be good protection on hot days. lack of fuel - mixtures lean out due to insufficient fuel supply or a dirty injector etc too much timing - fuel mixture gets ignited too early, this is the most common adjustment made to combat knock, when a car is on a dyno and detonation is detected, assuming the AF ratios are correct, the next thing a dyno operator will do is pull some timing - well the ones that have tuned my car anyways:) There are more, but as mentioned the main ones to keep an eye on are heat, timing, fuel and load. Should you be worried about knock with a power fc? You should always be mindful of knock, as it will destroy an engine quite quickly and easily. Dont be worried about knock as long as you are mindful of it, and take necessary measures if it is ever seen/heard. Power fc is good for this, as it gives a scaled reading, and warns throught the flashing of the check engine light if a reading above 60 is detected, enabling the driver to back off and take preventative action. An aftermarket knock detector can be purchased if you are using another type of management too. There are other ways to keep an eye on potential problems arising, such as an exhaust gas temp gauage, it will tell the driver if exhaust temps start to rise beyond their normal operating range that the engine may be running a bit lean - and lean mixtures may cause knock:) Starting to rave on a bit here, sorry if I am confusing you. Bottom line: be mindful of knock, be aware of the different situations that may cause knock, and make sure to back off immediately if you hear or detect it, and you wont have anything to be worried about.

Well it certainly gives me a backup if the submission to the Minister of Tpt doesnt get any results.

Also, does the GTR power fc have air temperature correction? if so, I suppose the whole 'air being denser' theory would be pretty much useless.

meshmesh, O2 sensor is used for idle and cruise - it will lean out the mixtures and improve fuel economy - so best on if the car doenst mind, sometimes they seem to run better with it switched off, maybe due to faulty O2 sensor???? If the problems you hare having is with cold start, you can adjust the enrichment at the water temp function in the settings menu. The first setting is enrichment at idle, the second is idle under load (such as turn steering wheel). Check your water temp, then try knocking the enrichment back until the idle changes. Just make sure you note the starting point so you can return to it if its worse. If the afm voltage has risen, but the load (rpm) point hasnt changed (maybe as suggested due to denser air) it will mean the power fc is reading from a different part of the map. This may explain running rich on the road, and poor driving. Its only a guess, but it doesnt quite make sense to me, as it would mean your car would run like a dog when it gets colder - which usually the opposite is true. I think as you mentioned in the first post, best is to get it on a dyno so you can see what is happening properly:) Sorry, this post isnt much help, rambling on a bit:)

That is pure gold, many, many thanks - I think this case sounds perfect. Might even have flow on benefits to the rest of Aust - finally get some sort of standarisation, and a workable even playing field for all - fingers crossed. Thanks again:)

No probs freebagin, I am still amazed by some of the stories I am continuing to hear - pretty hard to believe how bad the situation is untill you scratch the surface a bit. Wish I was going

Or buy an ITC (ignition timing controller) if you can get one, have seen them for 200-250 in the forsale section.

Thats what is needed, a bit of magazine coverage. Something that I am sure would be a valuable and interesting read.

WTF? that is crazy, next thing they are going to stop people over certian heights from buying small cars - they never cease to amaze me.

Nope, I wonder what happened to him? Anybody dealt with him before? is he reputeable?

Absolutely correct, as per my previous post, you do need to take action if knock is detected.

Would be good if you could get it done - very interested to see the results.

very lucky, I just wish they could be a bit more understanding to all car owners - and the SAPOL could use a bit more discretion.

Cheers, but dont feel bad you havent been defected yet, its a pretty painful process.

60+

True Roy, BTW, the prices I quoted are not back yard rates, but a legit business with shop overheads and all the rest. Intersting though, I think that unfortuneately for retailers, and fortuneatly for consumers, that people are being more savvy with their money, and I-business is becoming more and more a reality that needs to be accepted. End of the day, you order over internet, or overseas, and you take whats coming - you buy from retailer and you know what you are getting and exactly how much it will cost sorry a bit off topic.

Dont have the manual? there is an e copy on the apex usa site http://www.apexi-usa.com/documentation.asp but I cant access it for some reason?