Steve

I dont know, I think if SA had a 'zero tolerance' to speeding (1km over the limit is enough to get done), I would find a liscence from another state very attractive.

Bl4cK32, I think he is only chasing a liscence swap, not rego. If I was after rego I would be off to Qld, but in Vic, they have some pretty restrictive P plater rules, so by changing to SA liscence, he gets an open liscence early - Is that right funkymonkey?

What is the min boost you like to run? If you never drop the boost below 1 bar, it wouldnt hurt to have a 1 bar spring in the gate, as sydneykid pointed out. I am no expert, but from what I have seen/heard, sounds like your tuner says is on the money.

Buster, I can confirm changing the spring will change the min amount of boost, not too sure about max boost though, suppose it depends on what sort of EBC you are using? Joel, it has had a road tune, spend 2 days getting the part and full throttle tuned, but I am pretty sure the AFRs are still too rich. Pretty sure too that there is a vacuum leak somewhere. I blocked the PCV valve as this was leaking, also changed every clamp on the boost side (after the turbo) to the large bolt type clamps. I have checked all the vacuum lines and clamped/cable tied them all. Still cant help but suspect a vacuum leak, as idle is still hunting a little, plus when I blocked pcv, then redid all hose clamps idle quality improved (it was hunting heaps), but still far from what it should be. Boost is strange, sometimes it comes on earlier than at others, I have had 1.3bar at 4300rpm, but usually it only makes around 0.8bar at 4200 - 4300rpm, then climbes rapidly after that. Usually though the first 5lbs of boost comes in pretty quickly - perhaps it is just the tune, but I suspect something else is amiss, and is being exacerbated by the manifold design - as I am 100% sure everything else on the car is a good thing. (and I have checked the BOV by tightening it about 6 turns, but it wasnt leaking before the cams/plenum etc went on, so it shouldnt be leaking now.) Sorry getting off track - It will be going into tilbrooks on monday for a tune - they are going to re-dial in the cams too, which probably wont acheive much (may have a HKS adj cam gear spare soon:)) I checked the cam specs on dyno 2003, and guess what? It looks like they are set up right from the factory. I tried advancing the inlet (as per NVCS) and this picked up the midrange heaps, which is reflected by disconnecting the NVCS when on the road. Interesting too that the power starts to drop after 4500rpm where nissan swicth off the NVCS, so it seems to apply to stock and aftermarket (or at least in the case of 256) cams. Anyway, I have 6deg of retard on the exhaust cam, which I am not too sure will be helping things much. I tried this too with dyno 2003 and it killed power. On the road, it sort of dies above 6000rpm, so I am suspecting there is just too much seperation. Hopefully with exh cam re-centred and AFRs/timing redone, things will improve somewhat. Then I will fit a smaller exhaust housing:) probably doing things a bit backwards, but I want to be absolutely certain I have milked everything out of the current setup before I change anything yet again.

you mean the sydnekid manual:)

Well wastegate and solenoid seem to be working fine. so this means the problem is somewhere else. The turbo starts making boost at around 3000rpm, makes 0.3bar at 3200, 0.8 at 4200, and then 1.3bar at 4800. Any ideas? It hesitates between 5lbs then around 4000rpm boost climbes pretty quickly. Is this quite normal, as it used to climb quite linearly until it got to 0.8 bar (0.61 turbine housing vs the 0.87 now) and then just went nuts before, but there wasnt any flat spot as there is now? Anyone seen this before?

Thanks sydneykid, shall give it a whirl:)

rs73, the way I think of it, holden, ford, all the same:p who cares:) funkymonkey, if you want to tranfer your liscence to SA you need to be a resident and have evidence of residential status, such as a bill or letter with your name sent to a postal address in SA. Sorry I dont know where the offices are, but here is a link to the website http://www.transport.sa.gov.au/

Hi all Just wondering if anybody knows of a way to check wastegate function without removing the gate from the manifold. I have a HKS 40mm standard (external) gate, and I suspect it may not be working too well. Firstly varying my duty cycle (from 20% to 90%) on the boost controller makes virtually no difference to how quickly boost comes on and Secondly, it seemst to make the first 5lbs of boost quickly, from there the speed at which boost is built varies, reaching 1 bar of boost can vary by as much as 3-400rpm. All testing I have done was on the road, flat surface in second gear, ie, consistently the same conditions. The boost controller is a power fc driven solenoid (AVCR type) and was holding boost well, and bringing boost on quickly when I had stock turbo, so I suspect the problem isnt there. Any thoughts? Cheers, and have a great new year:) Steve

lukits01, according to a comparison chart I have, trust equivelant of 2530 would be a TD05 18G. They dont make an equivelant of 3040, which is between a TD06 25G and a T67.

GTR cooler should be more than ample for 200rwkw.

2 cams for $600 new? That is cheaper than HKS sell them for direct. $1300 for greddy plenum and adaptor is also a very good price. I have seen them for up to 2K. Do not buy aust made, but a jap one that comes with all the bits and bolts up. Its a proven product with thousands of $ in R&D. I went aust made and just ended up having to buy another (greddy) one - so I wasted the cost of the plenum plus the added expense of fitting (and finding all the extra bits) and pipework. As mentioned, you will not find a plenum of the quality and fit in aust for anywhere near as cheap as the trust one. Oh, and if there is anyone out there who wants a hills plenum and ford throttle body (with adaptor for TPS), pm me:)

sweetr33, your timing belt needs tensioning from the sounds. Not uncommon for R33.

And neither of mine had an annoying drone, just a nice note:)

depends on the one you buy. I originally fitted a stainless N1 cat back - very loud as it only has a small rear muffler - but good power. Changed to a Nismo dual muffler, which is very quiet, but a little less power (noise and back pressure are somewhat related). fujitsubo is another that make very good, quiet exhausts, but they still bark when you get angry, they just dont wake the dead:) There are several others that will do the same. Generally, if it has dual mufflers ( and i am not talking about a skinny little claytons muffler ) they will be quite reasonable. Interesting too, that I got nearly all my money back on the N1 exhaust, a good condition jap made exhaust will hold its value very well.

Have you ever tried dialing in a degree or two of posititve camber to offest the irs squat? I have heard of people acutally compressing the rear suspension when getting wheel alignment, to allow for the geometry change when under power. Any comments?

Interesting thing about theory and the real world. You can make generalisations such as x type intercooler will have a larger pressure drop than y type intercooler. In theory a tube and fin shoud have a higher pressure drop than a bar an plate, this is because the tubes extend past the end of the core (only slightly) which in turn means more turbulance (something you need in an intercooler to a degree, as it prevents skin effect), but better cooling. Then all the variables come along such as core size, end tank design (much overlooked as sydneykid pointed out) and even the number of turbulators inside the tube or bar - these prevent skin effect. Too many and your cooler has too large a pressure drop to work well, too few and it wont cool efficiently. What I am getting at is, I have seen some very good bar and plate coolers, and some very good tube and fin coolers - I have also seen poor example of both. I think the trick is to get the right combination of airflow, cooling and pressure drop to suit your application - whether it be bar and plate or tube and fin And remeber, if you spend a bit more on a good cooler, you get a good product, if you spend less and save a few hundred dollars you may find you are only wasting money. I have seen one guy on this forum who got a custom made cooler, the core size was right, they seemed to know what they were doing. He then tried a Jap cooler, and low and behold, fried his clutch. I strongly agree with Ronin 09, if it looks too good to be true....

26GTS, ask yourself, how do you know you have a HKS turbo if it doesnt have HKS on it? All the HKS turbos I have seen (admittedly not hundreds, but I have seen many) have, as Merli demonstrated (cant get much clearer than that;) cheers), HKS on the housings. Perhaps if you really do think 50% of the info on here is bullshit, you shouldnt bother logging on, as you would be doing yourself a disservice. Admittedly there is some dis-information, but I have certainly learnt alot from here, as I would think most people who have been loggin on for a while have. Perhaps you could word your posts a little better, rather than just jumping in and making broad sweeping and unfair generalisations - makes for much friendlier forums:)

so are you removing crank and rods with the block still in the engine bay???

Buy good quality Jap stuff - just cant go wrong and if you change your mind you have resale value:) Quite reasonably priced second hand, is modular so you dont have to go back to the same exhaust shop or get custom work if you want to change something.

I dont think it would be all that depressing by dropping the CR to 8.5. GTRs go pretty hard:) I decompressed my engine to 8.6:1, but did cams at the same time (256/264), net result is the bottom end is alot stronger than before - very noticeable.

Thanks for the kind offer Greg, shall drop you an e-mail next week:) Cheers

Phat.

Oh and Rob, why not post up another copy of your dyno here so we can all compare yours to grepins, might shed some light on why you find his dyno so dubious?

INASNT, quite possible, but for how long do you think? Rob, are you for real? The dyno shows 180rwkw+ from around 110kph to 190kph and you want to suggest it may be sluggish and a dyno queen What power does your car make from 110 to 190kph in 4th gear? think about it? how quickly does your car come on boost? I know trust turbos tend to hit pretty hard when they come on, but really, 90-180 in around 15kph - thats probably alot more than most tyres can control, I know my 255 revspecs cant handle that sort of punishment, and they arent cheap nasty tyres.