Steve

hippy, you are right. Old cars dont have as many ADRs to comply with. BUT they still do have to comply with the road traffic act, which is basically to make sure cars are safe on the roads. This is where I think they miss the point of ADRs, they are there to ensure cars arent designed in a way that could be dangerous, not to make sure cars dont get modified by enthusiasts. The reason I say this is that firstly other states allow modified cars on the roads, just work with the owners to make sure they are safe - makes sense. Tim Ireland acutally recommended to me that if I wanted to own a modified car, I should mod an old one then I could do what I want, and as no design laws apply (or emissions laws if pre 1972) I can do as I like and wont get hasselled. - clever beaurocracy, make moddifying old cars legal, but new cars illegal - that will certainly improve vehicle safety on the roads eh? Someone I know went through a defect station, and had their car inspected. The car was the only commodore, the other 10 cars there were imports (mainly skylines). The commodore was a 1981, it had been lowered and had extractors. It also had engine oil leaks (front seal), power steering leaks (from the supply line out of the power steering compressor), two exhaust leaks (it sounded like a truck), all the emissions equipment had either been removed or crudely blocked which looked obvious - including the carbon canister, lastly the wing mirror was a bit loose. After the cop had inspected under the bonnet, he went up to the driver and bumped the mirror, said ' you better get that fixed' and told the driver to be on her way. How many imports would get away with that? But an old, and obviously defective commodore, no probs.

Remeber, the RB30 bottom end will give a ton more torque than the RB25. CR is important when you have shorter stroke engines, as torque generally isnt as high as a longer stroke engine (or more accurately a higher rod ratio) - point in case the SR20 has more torque than an RB25 stock. Have a look at the thread by RIPS, it has a link to his dyno and the torque is just insane.

Jeez guys, some really really harsh comments here. If you dont know, why would you knock an experienced shop like tilbrooks? Perhaps it would be better to ask questions and learn something. Want to make comments about the new tuner at tilbrooks, this is the same guy who got a 10second car into the nines by spending a few hours on the dyno! 'Perhaps' the AFRs are like that to protect from detonation? It is running some serious boost. And why do you thing an engine wont last on 1.65bar? Boost doesnt kill engines, detonation kills engines. And remeber, when thinking its not a very impressive result, its a GT28 turbo, the boost hits like a mofo (doubles in like 15kmph) and it has 200rwkw to around 280 rwkw there after, would probably waste alot of 300+rwkw skylines out there, easily. the car would be nuts to drive, well done on a good result grepin, so when are you going to give us a seat of the pants review?

terry.m, good idea getting a decent Jap exhaust. You can pick them (cat back) up in stainless for $700 in excellent condition second hand. They do bolt on exactly. From there look at a front pipe and highflow cat (or decat pipe - for racing use only of course:)) I noticed you have a '95 skyline - seems several people here have had some good results with the 95 ecu, in some cases it seems to produce alot closer to 'good' air fuel ratios than some of the other years. Getting a bleed valve and putting the car on a dyno will tell you alot more about where your AFRs are. From here I would recommend a cooler - as colder charge air will deliver alot more power, I fried my clutch as soon as my cooler was fitted (but I already had a power fc). From here, if needed, engine management of some type. There are heaps of different options around, and as merli posted earlier, get it right the first time and save a fortune ( I have got it wrong a couple of times, and both times it ended up costing me over $1000+ to learn the hard way:)) Also, dont forget suspension and brakes. By setting up your suspension correctly, you will be able to get the power down alot easier. Simple and relatively cheap options like cradle bushes help, also, not a cheap one, but decent coilover suspension or coils and shocks will make a huge difference to how the car drives - and driving pleasure is what it is all about. You will probably realise that you can spend as much money as you want, but do it smart and you wont regret it. Lastly (but not least), welcome to SAU. Steve

skylinegeoff, sounds like a very understanding minister for war and finance you have there! Good luck with the rebuild. Do you have a link to the thread that details how to tell the difference between the good rods and the crap ones? Or a photo detailing what to look for? Cheers Steve

terry.m, doesnt surprise me at all. A mate who tried to transfer his rego from WA was told he had to remove the OEM spare wheel on a stock original Landrover discovery as it 'obscured the tail light' from a particular angle. I agree with Bl4cK32, e-mail the minister for transport, but also the shadow minister, more likely to see something happen that way. Also, ask for a detailed response, and ask specific questions - make enough work for them and they might actually do something about it. Hopefully my submission will create a bit of work for them:)

The only probs I found with the 3037 and the 0.61 ar, is that the boost hits so hard that traction is a major drama in any gear. Then again it can be tuned out I suppose (the hard hitting boost).

pm sent

Normal fuel pressure reg - sets fuel pressure (say 40psi) above plenum pressure. Adjustable allows you to adjust the amount above plenum pressure (so you can dial in more than stock pressure) Rising rate, increases the fuel pressure the more boost pressure is detected. So instead of having say 40psi (above plenum pressure) at 1 bar, it may have 55psi above plenum pressure, at 2 bar it may have 80psi and so on. (these figures are all arbitary and used purely for demonstration) Either an adjustable or rising rate fuel pressure regulator is used to stretch injectors beyond their nominal rating. Ok for small amounts, causes trouble when you go too far - better off using larger injectors if you are going for major increases in power and therefore fuel delivery requirements.

INASNT, how is the 0.82 turbine housing going? Got a dyno?

Yes it is. Legend was going to come around and have a look, but got caught up in the silly season - quite understandable:)

Nrage33, it will vary from car to car. As sydneykid pointed out above, even R32 to R33 GTS varies.

I have put 55L in mine, guage was well and truely on empty, and it didnt surge - that was with bosch 044. If you have surge, there is a very good chance that the pickup isnt correctly located. next time you have low fuel, try pulling the pump, and checking that the sock is in the right spot, ie, it locates in the little section at the bottom of the tank designed for it to fit. Also, check the tounges on the back of the fuel pump bracked are secured (fitted) properly in the locator.

What sort of management are you running? also, are you using a pod?

20K isnt a waste if its spent on a car:p Dont be so pessimistic, you could easily have an 11 second street car that is quite happy in traffic - your not driving an LS1:p

Yep it does thanks alot. Interesting that you can get a genuine HKS housing for a similar (or slightly lesser) amount by ordering direct from the US. When are you planning to go ahead out of interest?

If this thing about getting two defects = fine is 100%, its eve worse. If you take the example of your chassis rail, you could have left regency the last time, got defected as you left the drive, then fined as it was your second, and because the chassis rail wasnt noticed the first time - the defect would have applied, if they had noticed it. But the regency inspector wouldnt have any liability. food for thought.

Joel, I think alot of people try and do shortcuts, which is understandable. They get away with running xxx power on a dyno, even though injectors may be on the edge, and detonation is only just under control. Then the real world of the street comes along. Look at GTR engines, alot of people have 300rwkw no probs. Bigger injectors, and lower CR. The japanese have been extracting 300rwkw reliably with RB25 stock internals - what do they do? lower CR and use larger injectors. There are no shortcuts when it comes to building a reliable engine, as it will become the weakest link. Do injectors, drop the CR and you will find the engine will last - there are a few places around that have massaged 300rwkw from rb25 reliably in australia too, but not many - perhaps its because people think they can reinvent the wheel and do it better? Oh, and do go for around 8.5:1 CR, I gave my car a bit of a flog the other day 40 degrees, 1.3 bar and knock only went to 26 on the power fc - before I would have had trouble running 0.8 bar on a day like that. And it is still putting enough power down that when 1bar hits its like driving on wet grass (dyno early Jan)

As mentioned above, I wont be using names at all in the submission for confidentiality reasons, but will state that contact details can be made if necessary.

and then there is the added benefit of doing a rebuild/freshen up every 10-20,000kms. Tony, what did the N1 pistons cost, and what CR do they have when used with stock RB25 rods?

I am using a 1.6mm HKS stopper type head gasket. It takes the CR down to 8.6:1 Why didnt I use pistons? I wasnt doing a full rebuild, just wanted to lower the CR. AFAIK the HKS gaskets do seal alot better than just a stock gasket.

hippy, shift kit and a high stall converter. With a decent high stall converter you will be able to get some awesome launches:)

I havent got any stat decs unfortuneately. But, it isnt going to stop me. I have had legal advice that it would be accecptable to use cases without individual names, state that the names and contact details would be available if required, but are not being published for confidentiallity reasons. Hopefully, if push comes to shove, anybody who has given me details will be ok with putting in a statement if required - it is probably best to keep names witheld for the time being anyway - enough people get harrassed as it is without making life more difficult unnecessarily.

Transport minister, then the premier. I am sure they would care if it cost them votes.

I have heard of 12,000rpm redlines for 2.6/2.7 bottom end - crazy shit, I have owned motorbikes that didnt redline that high:)