Steve

9krpm, dont feel too bad, your not the first to destroy an engine on the track due to oil problems, wont be the last. Expensive lesson though. Can I suggest you give some thought to an oil cooler before your next attemp to whoop more porshces around mallala? How did you go keeping up by the way?

What is the cost of N1 pistons? Also, is there much advantage over stock GTR pistons? then again, why even bother with forgies. I know alot of people say you need to use them, but I am yet to be convinced except maybe for full on drag type application. Forged pistons,although they may handle more heat, are more brittle than stock pistons and cost alot more. Stock pistons, with a conservative CR and a good tune will do the job very well. Sorry, I am straying off track a bit:)

I havent had any personal exerience with engine/rear wheel back to back dynos, so it is purely theory to me as well. Sydneykid though has, and it appears from his posts that the fixed loss method is the go.

I would love to know the specifics, sounds like yet another example of guilty until proven innocent. It is interesting in all assets of criminal law, you are innocent until proven guilty, but here, you have no comeback - its bloody criminal in itself.

There are a couple of trains of thought on this one. Some favour the % loss theory, some the fixed loss theory. Fixed loss works on the principal that a certian type of car will experience a certian amount of driveline loss. And that although you may increase Flywheel power, the (driveline) loss wont vary at the same rate as the power increase. a manual R33 GTS for example may have a 45-50kw driveline loss, if you increase the power from stock by 100kw, the resultant gain in driveline loss will be very minor. So, stock 140rwkw, 185kw, with 200rwkw, 245kw fly (plus maybe a few kw in extra heat, but nothing major) Remeber the power has to go somewhere, if not to the wheels, then what does that leave? Heat? Say if the same above car had 400rwkw (not impossible), using the percentage theory, that may indicate a flywheel figure of 540kw, but using the fixed value, a flywheel figure of closer to 450rwkw With quoting power, if someone says xxxkw, that would indicate at the flywheel (to me anyway) generally the rwkw figure is stated either as rwkw or 'at the rears' (or at all four if 4wd etc), also commonly used is bhp (which stands for break horse power) this is also a flywheel figure. Dont be too concerned what power figure your car is making, unless of course it is well down on what 'should' be expected for the car you have dynoed. Dynos are a great tuning tool, and good to be able to somewhat quantify gains between mods - but should never be taken as the be all and end all.

Have you got any more info Joel? Would it effect the squish zone characteristics? definately a new one for me (not that thats very rare:))

Are you serious?????

I was told that although they havent updated the website, they do have RB25 datalogit availaibe. Tilbrooks (dyno shop in Adeliade) have a copy of the software anyways.

Well, mate, as you will notice - thats my opinion and that was the original vain of the thread. If you are a rice boy, fine, do what you want, but dont think for one minute that I will change my mind because you think I should. I respect everyone elses ideas, but I still have a mind of my own and when asked for an opinion I will give it honestly, not honey coat it for the infirm or easily offended. As you will notice, I stated 'I call it', dont really pretend to speak for anyone else, why do you think I should curb my remarks? Do you think I shouldnt give my opinion, even when someone posts up asking for it? Lets get real for a second, there are actually people out there who see stock lancers and hyundais done up with kits, neons stickers etc, but obviously have nothing else - and will laugh their arse off at them and call them all sorts of names, wanker being a mild one. Now why sugar coat the world? Why give the impression that things arent as they seem. People do laugh their arse off at rice, people will call ricers by far more vulgar terms than 'wanker'. Get real, lets see the real world for what it is. Oh, and by the way, you will probably notice, I didnt make any negative comments about anybody elses opinions - because I respect the right of individuals to have an opinion and voice it so why dont you? Then again, no dont answer, I dont care - thats your opinion, and if you cant accept that I have my opinion, I dont want to know of yours.

skyline, thanks for the support on the regency thing. The brace sits with a fair bit of clearance, it sits just under the bonnet (only just). The carbon is inlaid, its flush with the alloy. I think the 3L is 30mm higher than the 2.5 from memory. Hard to say I suppose until the engine is in. I had heaps of clearance, but I am running a trust plenum. legend, no probs I will pm you my phone number, monday or tuesday is good, whatever is good for you. Steve

Adding a bit more fuel at peak torque (around 4krpm) is done as a bit of insurance against detonation, AFAIK

Who cares what times you do, the 200+m long burnouts would be a crowd pleaser:)

do have a look at my threat on manifold design and turbine housing. I learnt an expensive lesson. The 6:1 collector 'seems' to be causing a bit too much turbulance and slowing down exhaust gas flow. The japs, like HKS, use 3:2:1 then turbo, which is what I would highly recommend (pictures on the above thread) - alot of R&D, dont try and re-invent the wheel. Serious, with the right manifold it will be killer.

Good thought, now that you have a tough engine with a low CR, buy MattRs HKS turbo - hello 350-400 rwkw easy.

Andrew, I think someone may have you in their sights;)

Might have a bit more luck if you post in the wanted to buy section, anyways, D1 garage do a BN sport full kit for R32, phat drift looking kit - they are located in adeliade though

He is open mon, tue, wed AFAIK, then shut at least through to monday the next week, but not certain. Dean, the answer is buy a shit box VN commodore with a fully sik V8, dont do any suspension work, just cane the living hell out of it cos they are sooooo much safer than those bloody rice burner skylines - you'll never get defected, even if you get done for dangerous driving or doing 160 in a 60 zone. Surely you should know by now how much safer aussie built V8s are?

Very nice power curve, I see what you mean about it dropping slightly at the top. At least you have warning before you hit the rev limiter:) INASNT, not too well with the exhaust manifold unfortuneately. Just doesnt seem to be enough exh gas velocity to bring the turbo on to boost early enough for my liking. I want to try a smaller housing, as with the 0.61 it hit 1 bar around 3000rpm, now its around 5,000 rpm. I dont think this is the fault of the turbine housing, as they are the recommended size for RB25 by HKS BUT they sell the kits with very short manifold runners, and a progressive collection of the gasses. Mine has long runers and a 6:1 configuration which is where I think the problems start. Sly, sorry for the whoring:)

I am sorry, the vain of your post, as I interpreted it was that you were making a statement, not asking a question. The truth of it is, as Rob stated, most grey imports at the higher end of drag racing, both here and in Japan, use manual transmission. Manual is the norm, auto isnt.

No probs, will check it out.

I live in Greenacres, just down the road from tilbrooks, you?

Well if you want to be running higher revs, I would definately give consideration to valve springs - good insurance.

I think the redline you want to be running will have more bearing on upgrading the springs, as the stock lift for RB20DET is 7.8mm, so 8.5 isnt a huge increase (RB26 use just over 8.5mm lift). EDIT: just had a look at the link, as the cams are made for hydrualic lifters, you should be fine as long as you keep the redline sane. I have heard it recommended by the co-owner of Signal (owner's brother) that the RB20DET should not be taken past 8200redline in stock form, with possibly more agressive ramp from the Tomei cams, perhaps even that is a bit too high? Out of interest, why are you going 270?

To get the car paid for by someone else, you need to prove they stuffed the car, which will be hard. It is good that you post up to let others know of your woes, and hopefully they wont share your experiences. I have had a similar problem with an intake plenum that I bought. I can either throw it in the bin, or get it fixed myself and try and sell it. If this guy was playing with your bov, that is the first place I would be looking. If a BOV is too loosely adjusted, it will leak at even low boost pressure, which may be the case in your instance. Try tensioning it up several turns, then test it is holding by reving the car (around 4k or so should be enough) and listening for the air reverting through the turbo (fluttering noise). Once you are here, just back off the valve adjustment until it just starts to lift. If it was a vacuum leak, I would expect that idle would be really really poor, so I doubt that is the problem. Failing that, all I can suggest is take the car to a mechanic with a decent reputation.

Your an ideas man Tim.