sonicii

Hard to say what the extra connector is, it looks a bit like a coax type connector, so possibly a separate radio/GPS antenna, or even another camera input? The V37 series (including the Q50), did go through a model refresh in 2020, since Australia didn't get any Q50s newer than 2019, we didn't get any of the refreshed models, so there could also be other unexpected problems to overcome to swap an older Q50 head unit into a new model V37. There probably aren't too many people around that have made these sorts of changes to a Q50/V37, so you might end up being the first if you do decide to go ahead. ACP is Apple Car Play and AA is Android Auto, they are roughly the same thing for the 2 major phone operating systems (Apple's iOS and Android), it allows you to connect your phone and access a number of your phone applications on your car system. With Nav apps included, so you could use google maps/Waze or whatever your favourite navigation app is, instead of using the built in navi system. I think this would be a better solution if it is only Navigation that you are looking as swapping the head unit for. GPS signals are the same around the globe as the GPS satellites continuously circle the globe, but it is the head unit that doesn't allow you to load Australian maps, or at least no-one had made an Australian map that will load up on the JDM head unit. Regarding the TV standards, I assume you are referring to the AV inputs? I haven't ever tried to use them, Japan used a slightly modified version of the US NTSC system, and Australia uses PAL for composite video, that said, I wouldn't be surprised if a video input could work with either system. That is mostly irrelevant here though, unless you plan to use those inputs for something?

No idea about the remote start part. If the V37 nav is anything like other Nissan JDM vehicles, you can't get the factory Japanese nav working in australia, a card from a different car almost certainly won't work, those cards are usually matched to the serial number of the DCU. You could be possibly swap out the components from a AuDM Q50 to get it working, but if this is a new model (2021+) 400R, then you will lose the newer features like ACP/AA. That said, if you have ACP/AA, just use google maps.. I assume a band expander would be required to get the local radio stations, but don't forget the Japanese FM band is narrower than ours, so you still might not be able to receive all Australian stations. I can't see any reason the tyre pressure sensors won't work here, there is the sensor unit inside the rim and the receiver nearby in the wheel well. I have never had to change the batteries on my 2015 Q50, so I assume they last quite a while. A straight battery change shouldn't need them to be re-registered as they are the same unit, that should only be required if you replace a sensor with a new one. Word of warning, if you ever go into the 'secret' diagnostics mode on the main screen, DO NOT EVER do a 'reset' in this menu, it will erase all of your model specific data in the DCU and you will need a trip to a dealer to re-program it all, which would be particularly painful being an import. This applies to the AuDM Q50 too.

There is a known issue with the mix door motor on the Q50 which causes these symptoms, not sure if it is common on the Y51 though.

But I think you missed mine.. there is also nothing about the 98 spec that supports your claim.. according to the fuel standards, it can be identical to 95, just very slightly higher octane number. But the ulp vs pulp fuel regulations go show 95 (or 98), is not just 91 with some additives. any claim of ‘refined by the better refineries’ or ‘higher quality fuel’ is just hearsay. I have never seen anything to back up such claims other than ‘my mate used to work for a fuel station’, or ‘drove a fuel delivery truck’, or ‘my mechanic says’.. the actual energy densities do slightly vary between the 3 grades of fuel, but the difference is very minor. That said, I am very happy to be proven wrong if anyone has some hard evidence..

98 and 95 have to meet the same national fuel standards beside the actual RON. 91 has lower standards (which are quite poor really), so 95 is certainly not 91 with some octane booster. It would be an easier argument to claim 98 is just 95 with some octane boosters. Also RON doesn't specify 'quality' in any sense, only the octane number. Anything different retailers decide or not decide to add to their 95 or 98 is arbitrary and not defined by the RON figure.

Pretty sure they run the same engine as the Q50 hybrid which specifies 95 RON. I ran 98 in mine for a while, but it made no difference in performance or economy, so I have been using 95 for the last few years. I have never hit 6.0L/100km, but have returned mid to high 6 on the highway. Being a hybrid, fuel economy is a lot more dependant on how you drive it. At 110km/h, mine never goes into EV mode on the highway, so returns closer to 7.5L/100. urban driving can return low 8s if you are careful or over 10 if you are a bit more enthusiastic on the throttle.

I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup. Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.

fair call, but the going price of a '16 RS is around $30k. also don't think you have any chance of finding a '21 400R for close to that figure. If you find one.. sign me up!

That shoots down the suggestion they are a similar price to a 5yr older Q50 RS. if you pay that price for a 2016 RS you would have rocks in your head.

As far as I know, Infiniti stopped importing vehicles before 2020, even though they were still selling their stock for at least a year or 2 after that, they were older build years, therefore, you can import a 2020 400R, because you couldn't buy an AuDM 2020 built Q50 RS. As for insurance, you might need to go through one of the enthusiast insurance companies, they tend to insure a lot more grey import models than the mainstream insurers as Duncan mentioned.

The existing factory sub feed should already have a sum of L+R and a low pass filter, so it probably isn't necessary to take another L and R feed from the HU. If it didn't have a factory sub output, then that would be the best option though. Does your new amp not have speaker level inputs? that would eliminate the need for the speaker - line level converter completely.

I would just use one channel, if you use L+ and L-. I would connect the R+ and R- input wires together, since it seems to have a 12V input, it might have some small preamps in there and you don't want them sitting with open circuit inputs.

I would sign up to www.infinitiq50.org ask there, plenty of owners on there that may be able to advise of any common issues. The 400R is just a red sport with a few extra cosmetic changes, so mechanically they will be the same. Which coolant are you seeing leaks with? the engine coolant (which uses a belt driven pump, part number 21010-4HK0A), or the intercooler/heat exchanger coolant, which uses 2 electric pumps. For a parts listing, try this - Nissan Infiniti Q50 with V37-RHD frame, 06.2016 - ... - Genuine parts - Amayama

Pretty sure the 2016 Q60 was still the V36 chassis, so I suspect a V36 370GT exhaust should fit ok. A complete muffler delete would be pretty noisy; would it pass the WAF?

Sounds like a typical Nissan dealer response. Of course they can do diagnostics, they just need a Consult 3+, which every Nissan workshop will have. They just don't want to because they are lazy and don't want to deal with any issues that pop up which they aren't familiar with and don't want to work on cars they haven't has specific training on. This is the list of workshops that used to be Infiniti workshops, and are therefore willing to help. INFINITI Auto Repair & Maintenance | INFINITI Australia

Many items, especially engine parts are shared with locally delivered models, so shouldn't be too hard. otherwise, try amayama.com

There was a thread a couple of years ago, seems the consensus is, it's a common fault, but no guarantee you will see the issue. If you are buying an Infiniti, then it will be 2012 or newer as that is when they were sold in Australia, I am fairly sure they used a different gasket by then, so you shouldn't be seeing this issue. If you are buying an earlier V36 Skyline (370GT), then it could still be affected.

I can't really say what is best for the VR30 as I don't have one, but I know plenty of people have said things about oil weights in the past without a whole lot of evidence, so I would be wanting some empirical evidence that 0W-20 is causing problems before I go with a different oil weight. Plenty of people have told me the recommended 5W-30 oil is too thin for the VQ35 in our warmer environment, yet I have been using it in a V35 skyline in North Queensland since 2011 without issue. Based on the manual you posted, it looks like 5W-40 will be ok, but no idea if it would be 'a better choice'.

I don't know for sure, but I expect the recent model V37 400R (or RV37) is pretty much identical to the recent model Q50 RedSport with the differences being cosmetic. (and ignoring the fact the new model Q50 RS is LHD only)

It has more than mine does, you get a wheel brace at least, mine just has the tow ring. There is no spare, no goop, no jack, nothing in these, they come with runflat tyres from the factory. I bought a 370Z donut (which clears the akebonos), a jack and wheel brace for mine as I had normal tyres fitted last time. I just throw them in the boot if I am going out of town.

spark plugs are just NGK LFR5AIX-11 for the iridium, or PLFR5A-11 for the platinum. you should be able to get these just about anywhere.

I swapped my ball joints about 4 years ago, I bought the SPD ball joints from conceptZ, they are still working, but the boots fell apart after a few months. I notice they don't sell these anymore, maybe that is why. I ended up buying the replacement poly boots, which haven't split, but they open a gap when the suspension compresses, so I don't recommend them either. No idea about the Mevotech ball joints.. I would be surprised if you can't find these ball joints locally too, just search for 350Z rather than V35 That said, if you are going to the effort of pressing the ball joints out/in the steering knuckle (which is a pain of a job), the why not just also go with new bushes in your current LCAs? you can get the superpro poly bushes locally. Shock Absorber Lower Bush Kit (fulcrumsuspensions.com.au) Control Arm Lower-Inner Bush Kit (fulcrumsuspensions.com.au)

My Q50 doesn't even have 'goop', it comes standard with runflats, so no spare, no jack, no goop, nothing. No idea what the JDM models come with. I bought a 370Z donut (needs to be at least 18in to clear the akebonos), a spare jack and wheel brace and I throw that in the boot when I go out of town, saves having to spend the $$ and endure the downsides of runflat tyres. Apparently if you are creative, you can make yourself a replacement boot base out of high density foam and fit the donut under the boot mat, but you lose about 100mm of boot depth.

There isn't that many cars yet that are using electric coolant pumps, but they are slowly becoming more common, especially in the euro brands. back in 2009, they were quite rare, pretty much all were either timing chain or accessory belt driven. That said, the VQ37VHR isn't an uncommon engine, so any decent mechanic should be able to replace the water pump. I don't live in NSW, so can't make any suggestions.

Ah, yeah, the diff bushing in the rear subframe, this has been a problem since the start of the V35 in the early '00s and the only solution ever offered by Nissan is a whole new subframe. Since they are fluid filled, as soon as they form the smallest crack, they leak brown fluid everywhere. The aftermarket options for the v35 and V36 aren't suitable for the V37 either, Z1 has built an aftermarket option, but a few people have had issues with it. The brace should reduce movement in that bushing, so should extend its life! Did you notice any increase in noise from the driveline? I know some have installed solid subframe collars and complain about the amount of noise it transmits through to the body, but not sure if the diff brace makes any noticeable difference?