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sonicii

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Everything posted by sonicii

  1. I had the passenger side seat warning light a few years back, I had tried cleaning the connectors several times, using contact grease to prevent corrosion, cable tying the wires in place so they couldn't move.. each time after a few months the warning light re-occurred. In the end I removed the pins from the connectors and soldered the pins onto the wires instead of just the crimp. that was years ago now and I haven't had another occurrences of the fault. I have had the clockspring go bad since then, but that threw a driver side airbag fault code, which was different to the passenger side seat.
  2. Mine doesn't do that. I have never heard of this issue before though. As said, you should start by getting it up on ramps, stands or a hoist and having a look around, it could be an exhaust hanger broken, a transmission mount failed or something similar.
  3. the part I ordered was 25567-7W025 and was correct. The steering angle sensor as used by VDC was a separate section I had to remove from the old unit and attach to the new one. I believe this part number is the same for the non-VDC models.
  4. I bought a genuine part through amayama, a local model may use the same part, just make sure it has all the required connectors as the stereo controls also go through the clockspring. Ebay may be another option, but I am not sure what the aftermarket components are like.
  5. Then there is an issue that needs to be fixed.. these cars are not euros, they don't trigger warning lights for no reason. Get someone to read the code, it will likely tell you where the problems is. Wiring under the seats are a common problem, I have also had the clocks spring in the steering wheel go bad.
  6. I am guessing that would be the 'SLIP' light? not SPIN These are symptoms of many possible faults. It could be a crank or cam sensor, or something else, you will need to get the codes read to find out.
  7. 1. I am quite sure the 300GT only came with the 5sp auto. the CVT (Extroid) and the 6sp manual was only on the 350GT. Have a look on the build plate under the bonnet on the right hand side, it will give you a trans. code, it will start with RE5R for the 5sp auto, or RE4R for the 4sp (I think the 4sp was only on the 250GT though), the manual will start with RS6R, and the CVT will start with RE0R. 2. not sure if the Nissan Datascan works ok with the DD engines, but they work ok on the 350GT, otherwise a decent Consult III clone will work well. 3. and 4. sorry I don't live in Sydney, so I can't help there. 5. The only dumb questions are the one's you don't ask, then get yourself in a bind. Welcome and I hope you enjoy the car!!
  8. yeah, just because they are the same engine, doesn't mean all the accessories (alternator/power steering pump, aircon compressor, tensioners), are all in the same positions, these items get moved around to suit the engine layout, and therefore use different sized belts.
  9. Ah, feel better about one illegal act by performing another one yourself.. nice Just chalk it up to experience, it sounds like the car is in good shape, so I wouldn't be too worried about it having done an extra 30,000km or so, you could have just as easily brought one with genuine KM on it, but thrashed to death and it much worse shape than this one.
  10. it does sound like a seized compressor, the smoke would have been the slipping belt, much longer and the belt would have likely just snapped. As for the repair.. I would guess at minimum you would be looking at a new compressor, and I would replace the belt too, then a leak check and gas recharge. At worst, the failure could have pushed metal fragments through the AC system and the whole system could need to be flushed and some other components possibly replaced if they can't be properly flushed out.
  11. seems NGK recommend a 7 heat rating for the HR engine and a 5 heat rating for the DE engine, so I think the LFR5AIX-11 is probably for the VQ35DE.
  12. You should never gap iridium or platinum plugs, you will snap off the electrode.. the -11 at the end of the part number specifies a gap of 1.1mm..
  13. you don't need to go to Nissan, you can buy the same NGK plug without the nissan packaging. Just be careful of counterfeit NGKs online.
  14. ^^ this.. it is extremely common for import 'car yards' to import high KM cars and wind back the speedo, or even have write off vehicles repaired in japan and imported cheap and sold here. a very big reason many prefer to import their own car through a reputable agent rather than buy from an importer car yard. A suspicious buyer may even want the VIN so they can do their own checks, but at least if you state you have the japan auction papers to show the actual KM when it was exported, it may reduce some concerns.
  15. do you have a copy of the dereg papers and/or auction sheets? If so, it might be worth mentioning it, as many people get a bit sus of a 9 year old car with 5X kkm on the odo, especially imports.
  16. I tried energy suspension bushes from USA first, they were crap and fell apart within 12 months. I currently have whiteline bushes in there now and I am hearing noises in the front suspension again after about 2 years. I haven't confirmed the whiteline bushes are the culprit yet, but they could be. I have actually bought a set of the upgraded factory bushes that I will swap in when I get time. Probably not as nice as the poly bushes, but this is my daily, so I prefer something that will last over bushes that have less movement.
  17. They are on the compression rod. it is the curved aluminium rod which connects to the bottom of the hub with a ball joint, and the other end at the body of the car with a large bushing. Some people call them a strut rod or radius rod.
  18. Just sounds like the TCU is going into limp mode. It is just locking in 1 gear in order for you to be able to get home or to a mechanic. Most likely a sensor or solenoid in the transmission is intermittent. By stopping and re-starting the car takes it out of limp mode until the TCU detects the faulty component again. This means there should be codes stored in the TCU, which will help a transmission tech diagnose the cause of the problem.
  19. I am fairly sure the stock V36 immo is compliant with ADRs, so doesn't need an aftermarket unit added.
  20. Might be a bit of a long shot, but have you been able to monitor the battery voltage from a cold start? I had an issue on my wife's J31 Maxima a few years back where it would be hard to start sometimes and then splutter for the first 5sec or so after firing. After that it ran fine. Turned out the battery voltage was low due to a lot of short trips (wife works about 3km from home), and it wouldn't run properly until the engine RPM was high enough to allow the alternator to supply the correct voltage. After taking the car for a long drive, it would be fine for a few weeks. We just make sure it gets a reasonable drive on the weekends now and it hasn't been an issue since. Also explains why the car eats batteries every 2 years or so.
  21. maybe it is the opposite of those steel testicles that 4WD drivers like to hang from the back of their cars?
  22. ECU won't lean the mix if knock is detected.. it retards timing and richens the fuel mix, resulting in poor performance and poor economy.
  23. There is only 2 codes for a knock sensor.. output high (P0328) or output low (P0327). there is no Bank2 code. If you have a knock sensor fault code, I would be looking there first..
  24. I think your budget will get you a decent V35 or earlier 350Z. I believe J-spec is quite reputable, so you should be safe. Prestige Motorsport and iron chef are some other options. If you decide to buy a V domestically, make sure you get it properly checked and use one of those odometer/history check services to confirm it wasn't a write off in Japan, or has had the odo wound back.. There are too many dodgy dealers who will sell vehicles like this. I would be suspicious of a V36 coupe for this price. An early V36 sedan may be within reach.
  25. ^^ this.. clusters are quite different. S1 has speedo and fuel gauge on the left, tacho and temp gauge on the right. S2/3 are the other way around. I don't know if they actually made a nismo cluster for the S2/3?? someone might be able to correct me there.
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