sonicii
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Everything posted by sonicii
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I would tend to agree.. considering Nissan use a normal pushbelt CVT behind the same 3.5L engine in the Maxima/Murano (sure, slightly detuned). and then they specifically say the toroidal CVT was built to handle high torque, I would say it could handle quite a bit more than the maxima/murano CVT before 'throwing in the towel'. That said, if you exceed its limits, it will get messy fast! and there is no option to 'rebuild' it to handle more torque like you can with standard auto transmissions.
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Just saying you can't block the fluid flow from the cooler like you can with engine coolant. you would need to bypass the cooler to still allow the fluid to flow back to the pan, otherwise you would create an enormous amount of fluid backpressure in the transmission
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KTF-1 and NS-2 are fluids.. also NS-2 is newer. NS-1 was used on the early pushbelt CVTs, NS-2 on the mid to late 00s, and NS-3 is used on the current range. I would expect if the consult3 can read and communicate with the TCU, then it will work regardless of what type of fluid the CVT runs.
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the cooler lines are the path the fluid takes on its way back to the pan. you can't restrict or block this flow or you will cause a lot of problems. They would have to include some sort of internal cooler 'bypass' to control temperature.. they might have something like this if fluid temperature is very critical, but I have never seen such a thing in a standard transmissions before.
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I highly doubt there are any 'contingencies' with old fluid. I just know some other CVT equipped vehicles have a fluid life counter in the TCU and it just flags when a fluid change is due. The idea is it can flag fluid change intervals with more accuracy than just KM, as 60,000 highway km is much nicer on transmission fluid than 60,000 city km. This counter may not even exist in the V35 CVT TCU?
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Rear springs are not in the picture, but there is no mention in the description that they aren't included.. I would have asusmed they will be.
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Yeah, I have never really checked but I also thought 370z suspension = V36, and 350Z suspension = V35. but not sure how compatible V35 suspension is with V36 suspension!
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I assumed he meant front side windows.. not windscreen. When you said you got '350z suspension' do you mean springs as well? as they will drop a sedan about 25mm all round. And at $578 it would want to be in awesome condition! http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/350z-stock-suspension-/151653477580?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item234f406ccc Does the factory glass have some amount of tint in it? as that plus T35 film will make it too dark.
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Not sure what needs to be 'reset'. Other CVT equipped Nissan vehicles have a 'fluid condition' counter stored in the TCU which determines when fluid should be changed based on how the vehicle is driven rather than just km alone. This figure is supposed to be reset when fluid is changed, so perhaps the GT-8 has something similar. No idea how gear ratios could 'become corrupt', these are hard coded and not 'learned', and they only apply when you are in manual mode anyway.
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I am fairly sure the rears are identical. there is nothing different between left and right. Fronts are different though!
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Did the manuals (and maybe option on the auto), have 'sports' suspension with red tokico shock absorbers and firmer springs? where as the standard shocks were black.
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Manuals don't need cooling as they don't generate much heat so there are no cooler lines. There is also no fluid/oil pump in a manual, so nothing to push the oil through a cooler anyway.
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Difference between 45 and 35 is about 22%, so yes. But I just pulled those in figures out of the air, I'm not sure what the actual figures are.. Drive line losses will be less for a 6MT too.
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About 45 more than a stock 350GT-8. At the flywheel, so probably about 35ish more at the wheels.
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Sorry.. Double post..
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I don't think there is anything particularly 'bad' about these transmissions, the issues arise when you need any repairs done!! I'm fairly sure someone mentioned MV Automatics in Adelaide back on the first page too?
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I don't think this toroidal roller cvt, or a version of it, is used by anyone anywhere anymore. It was only suitable for RWD setups and didn't have the market to justify R&D costs to continue development. Plenty of xtronic (pushbelt) cvts used by Nissan and sold to other car makers, they seem to have them sorted fairly well now, they are reliable, and fluid price is coming down. About the only thing they battle with now is customer perception.. A lot of people don't like CVTs just because they are CVTs and don't have 'gear changes' like they are used to. For high power vehicles, multi speed standard autos are still the way to go, old technology, but it has been around for a long time and everyone knows how to build them.
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Yep.. the plate in the engine bay on the drivers side. it will tell you the VIN, engine number, transmission type, final drive type, paint code and interior colour (and a few other things). Also worth noting CVTs don't have gears.. the '8 speeds' are just computer programmed ratios it uses in manual mode, theoretically, a TCU reprogram and it will become a 12speed, or 3 speed, or whatever you like. In 'D' it has a near infinite number of ratios it can use.
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Sure.. I was just referring to the V35 though.. the only V35 the CVT was available in was the 350GT sedan. Even then it was an option, the 5AT was also available.
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Interesting, the CVT was only available on the 350GT sedan, and the 4sp auto only on the 250GT I believe.
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Agreed, there should be no detectable gear changes with a CVT in 'D', as there is no 'gears', just a continuous adjustment of ratio as speed increases, dependant on throttle input.
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If you can afford to wait for it - http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/knd194/item/kle5100004/ probably expect another $150-200 or so for shipping of 2 tins.
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Getting Carbonfibre Driveshaft, Thoughts?
sonicii replied to Colt357's topic in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)
a lightened flywheel will probably be cheaper and give better gains. -
Get a 6sp manual.. it has a hand brake!
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happens to me every time I wash my car and park it back in the car port. isn't major and doesn't require much extra effort to get the car moving, but it makes a 'cluck' sound when it lets go. I just assumed it was a bit of corrosion between the rotor and the pads from the water. Pads in the handbrake (Foot brake) shouldn't need replacing if you don't drive with the handbrake on.
