sonicii

Get a 6sp manual.. it has a hand brake!

happens to me every time I wash my car and park it back in the car port. isn't major and doesn't require much extra effort to get the car moving, but it makes a 'cluck' sound when it lets go. I just assumed it was a bit of corrosion between the rotor and the pads from the water. Pads in the handbrake (Foot brake) shouldn't need replacing if you don't drive with the handbrake on.

nope.. Redline CVT is only suitable in place of 'NS-1, NS-2, NS-3 Nissan CVT Fluid, pt# 999MP-NS200P (Jatco JFE10E, JF010E, JF011E)(RE0F09A, B, 10A)' How CVTs function can vary dramatically, so fluid designed for one type, can be completely unsuitable for another type. as is the case with a pushbelt vs toroidal CVT. you also don't want to keep the transmission too cool, although in Australia, it probably won't be an issue.. in colder climates, overcooling can cause issues. Remember, transmissions are designed to work at a certain temperature, which is why you shouldn't thrash them when they are cold.

I haven't had experience with working on this transmission. But DO NOT use NS-2 fluid. This is for Nissan's xtronic (push belt) CVTs. Which are a completely different type of transmission to the extroid. You must use Nissan KTF-1 fluid. Or an equivalent (if there is one??)

I had splash guards painted by a local auto spraypainter, and I can't tell any difference between them and the colour of the panels. Mine is silver, paint colour KY0. However, they said the paint code is not enough, they needed my car for half a day to mix the paint to match.

not sure about SAs rules, but I would expect as long as they don't protrude outside the guards, and the overall tyre diameter is no more/less than 15mm from the orignal tyre size, you should be fine.

according to this, VLSD only came with the 19in forged wheel package on the auto. http://translate.google.com/translate?depth=1&hl=en&ie=UTF8&nv=1&rurl=translate.google.com.au&sl=ja&tl=en&u=http://history.nissan.co.jp/SKYLINE/V35/0411/DATA/main1.html On a side note.. I like the first item on the 'manfacturer options' at the bottom of the 'sedan' page from this link.. ◆ 1 Rear between the ass wipers, cold weather model (large-sized battery ※)

Yeah.. worth a try, even if it is just curiosity.. if you can make up your own cables, it will be much cheaper!. see if you can get hold of the install instructions for the real kit. If you just connect them to random spots, you can cause problems!

Coupe factory spec.. I think the standard sedan rims were more like +45 offset. Anyway, they protrude very slightly outside the guard, so to get them to tuck under the guard without rubbing when the suspension compresses, I only had to roll them a little, not fully, probably only about 45deg.

How did you manage to squeeze those under V35 sedan guards? Camber? or stretched tyres? I had to roll my rear guards slightly to fit 18x8 +30 rims with 245 tyres.

Indeed.. After all. Nismo make oil filler caps!!

Extra load on the electrics result in harder work for your alternator, which in turn loads your engine up more. I find the same thing if I try to wind up all windows at once.

I am of the same opinion, I have only installed on on one of my cars (J30 maxima), and it made zero difference, despite many on forums saying how much of an improvement it made on their J30 (although probably the people that also said a FSTB reduced bodyroll!).. Personally I feel many install them when their factory grounds are a bit old and corroded, so they do notice a difference, but no more than what they would noticed if they cleaned up their factory grounds. Also, if you connect them in the wrong spots, you can get earth loops and make things worse. However, if they are connected properly and routed out of the way of moving items, they aren't going to do any harm.. and as you say.. are a bit of 'bling'. But to be honest.. $150 for $10 of heavy gauge flexible cable and $5 worth of crimp lugs, is crazy!

plenty of good explainations of offset on google, with pictures which will make it easy to understand. lower number means wheel will be closer to the guard. Factory coupe tyre sizes with 18s run 245 rears and 225 fronts, 350z does something similar. my sedan came with coupe 18s with this setup.. I changed to 245 all round so i can rotate tyres. It also gives me just a little more clearance at the front with 350z springs.

Those figures are wrong. you can certainly go with a wider tyre than that. I have 245 tyres all round on my sedan, and that is with Coupe 18s. which have a lower offset than the normal sedan rims.. I expect you could go at least a few steps wider if you have a rim with a higher offset than +30. 245s on 18x8 +30 rims come very very close to the guards on the sedan! You can also go with a larger rim than 19in, if you select the correct tyre. personally I wouldn't due to how much road imperfections will be transmitted through to the body of the car.. but that is up to the individual. You also CANNOT use 16in rims on a series 2 or series 3 V35. these series have larger standard brake rotors and nothing below a 17in rim will fit over the front calipers.

it isn't about rim diameter.. you could easily enough go with a wider 17in rim to fit wider 17in tyres if you really needed to, there is no 'requirement' to change to an 18in rim. I'm not sure what width you could go up to on a V35 before you rub on the guard.. it would also depend on rim offset, you would need to select an offset so you don't rub the guards or the suspension.

Excellent.. Thanks Chris!

Had my airbag light start flashing a few days ago, and I thought it might have been the connectors for the anti-submarine ram on the passenger seat again.. I fixed that one by soldering the wires into the connectors for it. Anyway, turns out it is a drivers airbag module fault. A bit of research told me it is likely to be the airbag clock spring, so I pulled that out yesterday and confirmed one of the 2 conductors for the airbag goes high resistance at certain angles as I turn the clockspring. I have looked up epc-data for a part number, but it gives several, and I am not sure which one is correct. There is also this post from PN-Mad from last year which shows a part number that matches one of the numbers listed on epc-data. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449192-m35-airbag-fault-clock-spring-tutorial/ However, I can only assume that there is differences depending on the presence of VDC on the car, as the steering angle sensor is included with the unit. Is anyone able to confirm the correct part number for a 2005 V35 sedan with VDC? Or even better. have a near new unit they want to sell? These are the part numbers from epc. 25567-7W025 - A$221 (this one is listed in the link above) B5567-CF40A - A$197 25567-AL525 - A$198 (or A$98 if I am happy to pay for freight from UAE and wait for it to arrive)

To be honest, it doesn't look original to me. I haven't seen any factory Nissan components that use a common DC connector like that. My guess is a previous owner had something mounted in this area that needed power and had this cable wired in.

.. I had a jax tyre fitter try to say my V35 is a 'puss box version' of an R35. Seems he doesn't know the only thing it shares with a R35 is a Nissan badge.. I guess I should be thankful he didn't call it a maxima?? . Although it at least shares an engine with a maxima!

I'm sure most did.. thus the LHD.. it was just a US build they used..

yeah. unless the engine falls out as you are driving the car away from the dealer when you bought it.. you are most likely out of luck. Most 'used car warranties', aren't worth the paper they are written on. I did get a new muffler under used car warranty once, but only because it was the service manager's last day before starting a job with another company, so he didn't care!

Didn't they use the V35 body during testing of the R35 drive train? Because the R35 body was still being built/tweaked?. So this was probably just one of their 'test' builds. It was never going to be a production build.

What is different about it other than the RON?? If it is just a higher octane fuel, it is a complete waste of time. Nissan specify 96RON fuel, using anything higher is of no benefit in a stock engine/tune. If it costs more, it is flushing money down the drain.

I doubt it would make any improvement.. in fact it may make it worse.. you would need more throttle input to accelerate the same, meaning you have more TC slip, which wastes power in heat. These engines don't really benefit much with lower RPM with economy. My V35 returns better highway fuel economy than my wife's J31 maxima, despite the V35 running about 500RPM higher at 100km/h