sonicii

stone stuck between the brake rotor and caliper or caliper bracket.. Had this on a work commodore once

Probably a sensor fault.. you will likely need someone with a consult2 to figure out what is happening. They can be expensive to fix, and a lot of people have written off the car when they have had problems with this particular CVT.

Yep, had the same thing.. the seat lifter link arm/bracket has broken on the left rear side of the seat. I dismantled my seat and removed this part and had my brother weld it up and welded in an additional piece of metal to help strengthen it, and all is good now. I wasn't able to find where to buy just this bracket, only thing I could find was the entire seat base, which cost $$$ Looks like the Nissan Murano had a similar issue and just the arm was available, not sure if it is the same as the arm on the V35 though. There was a TSB for the same issue in the G35, but since the drivers seat is on the 'wrong' side.. the parts are different.

Did those issues affect the VQ35HR? I thought it was only the early VQ37s?

I've had mine insured with NRMA since I bought it 3.5 years ago. Most common insures won't though. you have more luck with a V36, even suncorp will insure them.

Ouch.. I'm with NRMA and pay less than half those figures with a $600 excess.

why not import one through one of the reputable importers? there would be a much greater range available in Japan.

I would say definitely wheel bearings then!

If you are getting a 'beating' effect (noise gets louder and quieter in a regular pattern), then there are 2 noise sources, since you have replaced tyres, my guess is wheel bearings.

I put genuine J31 Maxima parking sensors on my sedan, and they fit quite flush and don't protrude like those.

Maybe your dad should buy it!

Depends on what you want.. if all you are after is more intake noise, then it will be fine.. just don't expect any performance benefit!

You are probably right.. I'm likely thinking of the manual method to clear the DTC codes.

Not really required. the MAF will measure intake airflow, unless a pop-charger changes the way the air flows over the MAF it won't make any difference. The only thing the ECU stores is long term fuel trim. Meaning if the ECU sees a consistent difference between it's base fuel maps and what it sees at the AF ratio/ O2 sensor output, it will apply a trim to the map. This shouldn't change by fitting a pop-charger. To clear the long term fuel trim you will need a consult, or follow the non-consult procedure (I don't have this with me at the moment), which involves a pattern of accelerator pedal cycles and ign on/off cycles. The days of disconnecting the battery to clear ECU went out when the 1990s...

I think the price is quite reasonable. it's just not a good time to sell, lots of cars for sale and not as many buyers, especially for 'niche' cars like these. Some have had to wait months for a buyer to come along. The reduction in the value of the Yen is also making it very cheap to import one of these.. which isn't helping local sales either.

well, you don't have too many options with a V36 350GT.. they only came in a sedan.

talk to these guys - http://www.gslrallysport.com/

Changing to a Sedan huh?

CD009 is a direct fit. It is basically the same transmission with improved internals. I don't think anyone in Aust, stocks new transmissions other than Nissan, and they will likely charge you a fortune. I know someone who has bought from here - https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=2887 The killer is import duty and GST as the value is over A$1000. From what I have heard, the cost of rebuilding is more than the cost of a complete new transmission.

the outside sensor will be impacted by engine heat when you stop.. it is mounted in front of the radiator, which is why you see it drop fairly quickly once you start driving again. Cabin temp sensor is near your left knee when in the driver seat, so you would need to ensure you are checking the temperature from around the same area. It is unusual for these items to be inaccurate, normally when the sensor fails.. it fails properly..

I don't think you can in normal operation, but I believe you can go into the diag mode and see what temperature it is reading from the sensors. I have attached the page from the FSM which may help. atc.pdf

No one with any common sense.. $1600 for a set of OEM cast 18in rims.. ouch.. I guess they are hoping for someone with more money than brains..

These cars use a variable displacement compressor, they don't regulate temperature by turning the compressor on/off, the cooling power is adjusted by varying the compressor displacement. A bit like an inverter air conditioner for a house. So the compressor is always engaged when the AC is turned on. That said, i have found most car ACs with climate control will turn on the AC compressor for at least the first 5 minutes after switching it on, regardless of the temperature setting. Probably for situations where you are using the AC to dry the air (defog windows) rather than just for cooling, usually the system will engage the heater at the same time. Also keep in mind, CC systems usually have some 'smarts' built in, they monitor the external air temperature, and detect sunload, so they may blow cold air, even if the interior cabin temperature is at or below the current set point, in anticipation of the heating effects of outside air and sun. They don't wait for the cabin to get hot before reacting.

Consult is Nissan's diagnostic system, consult3 is the most recent revision, this is what Nissan plugs into your car to diagnose issues. There are several consult3 clones you can buy to do the same job. Even some basic diag tools can do simple tasks like read error codes. I used Nissan datascan to check the code when I had these symptoms.

Yep.. mine did exactly the same thing, but was caused by a bad connection on my after-market cruise control, which threw a 'accelerator pedal sensor' fault. So certainly needs codes read to know the cause.