sonicii

Yeah.. I haven't actually seen a set of 19in rays for that on their own, but I have seen a good set with decent near new tyres for $1000, so if you subtract the cost of the tyres, you could claim the rims come in at about the $300 figure??

I had a failed AFR sensor (wide band O2 sensor) on my V35, but it only caused a CEL and poor economy, no other symptoms. I would assume the HR engines also use AFR sensors?

you will need to have the ECU code read to know the cause.. these symptoms happen for many different reasons.

Would be better to get any problems fixed before you think about a tune. Those figures seem quite high.. I am not sure what is normal for the V36, but they are far higher than what I get in my V35.

If pushing on the +be battery terminal fixes the problem, then this is most likely where your problem lies. With a bad battery connection. If not here, then a bad connection somewhere.

I have seen them go for closer to $1000 if they are in very good condition.. especially if you can find a set that someone hasn't butchered by painting them black!

it is usually stamped on the back of the wheel casting somewhere.. it will probably say something like 18x8.5 +50 which would be a +50 offset. Or it may just have the offset figure on its own somewhere.

I am wondering that too.. they look like a fairly serious offset.. my guess is something like +50 or more. Price is quite good though!!

For some reason, the ryco webpage lists a Z436 for the V35, but Z445 for every other vehicle with the same engine, including the 350Z. Most other sources list the Z445. The Z547 also fits, but is 20mm longer

Get a late model R34 GTT (they were manufactured up to 2004?) I think they stopped in 2002 when they released the v35 coupe.

I thought the VQ35HR had the same torque figure? It recovered the torque the DE revup engine lost and increased power further.And it was 230kw in the V36.

I haven't driven one with a bad gearbox, so I can't say 100%. But a healthy gearbox should allow you to do fairly brisk changes (don't be brutal with it), when warmed up properly. It should not cruch at all. From what I have heard, 3rd and 5th are common gears to go first.

Sure.. Buy what does that have to do with how stamp duty is calculated?? If you buy a 2nd hand GT-R for $80k. You can't put down $50k because that is how much they sell for in Japan.. The rules are fairly clear.. Purchase price (to get it registered in aust) or market value, whichever is higher. Not how much you did/would pay for it in another country.

The CD 001 6sp fitted to the series one can have issues with weak synchros. This was fixed with the CD009/update in 2005. If you take it for a test drive, make sure you do some quick gear changes once it is warmed up, any crunching and you still want the car, allow about $3k for a transmission replacement.

You are better off posting in the R series skyline section. The V series VQ engines don't have timing belts.

I think an R series skyline would be the way to go if your goal is 0-100 times. A V is more of a performance cruiser. You can go FI, but it is going to cost you more. At least with an R, the path is already very well worn, so lots of advice will be available and parts are much more abundant.

Perfect for the rear of sedans??? I had to roll the guards to stop 245 tyres on 18x8 +30 rims from rubbing on the guards.. 19x9 -6 would need major guard work or insane camber and stretched tyres to even think about fitting.

I used these guys - http://www.japaneseodometercheck.sto.my/ Because I was a noob and didn't get any dereg papers when I bought mine privately here in Australia. The documents supplied had all the vehicle details, but did not have any odometer figures of the car when it was exported when it was 3 years old. They still supplied me the documents, but also gave a full refund!

I used these guys - http://www.japaneseodometercheck.sto.my/ Because I was a noob and didn't get any dereg papers when I bought mine privately here in Australia. The documents supplied had all the vehicle details, but did not have any odometer figures of the car when it was exported when it was 3 years old. They still supplied me the documents, but also gave a full refund!

I think the general sentament is the difference is not the grounding kit. something else has been done to it.. possibly a throttle controller installed which has changed the throttle body response vs pedal position. Could also have had a uprev tune, which uses the stock ECU. Grounding kits will normally only help if you factory grounds are very poorly designed, or corroded/damaged. The extra grounding from the transmission casing to the engine/battery may help as the auto solenoids probably ground to the transmission casing, and the existing grounds are a source of voltage drop. Did it accelerate better at full throttle, or did you just notice the throttle pedal response was different?

I'm still yet know a person who has installed a grounding kit and had any impact outside auto shift firmness and placebo. Placebo is a very powerful thing.. I read many many posts about people claiming Strut tower braces had 'significantly reduced' bodyroll. which a STB cannot possibly do.

I don't have navi either. Just fill the tank, reset one of the trip meters. On the next refill, note how much fuel it took and divide by number of KM showing on the trip meter. Multiply the answer by 100, and you have L/100km.

yeah.. when I saw what everyone else was seeing a while back, i thought my Odo might be inaccurite, so I did a check with a GPS and there was just under a 1% difference between the GPS and my odo. And I always measure economy by how much fuel it takes between fills and Odo reading. I don't have Navi, so no electronic display of economy.

Rear wheel bearings are a different setup to the front. Front wheel bearings come complete with the hub pressed permanently into the bearing, so it is just a bolt off/on affair that anyone with some mechanical knowledge can do at home. Rear bearings need to be pressed off/on, so unless you have a decent press at home, you will need a mechanic to do it for you. Any decent mechanic should be able to do the job though. Parts are cheaper for the rears, but will be offset by the labour cost.

2005 V35 350GT Sedan 6sp Manual. Stock. Daily Driver - 100% light city/urban - mostly sedate driving with the occasional hammering. Approx 10.7L per 100km. but will probably pop up to around 11 with summer coming and heavy AC use..