sonicii

I'm not too sure about the DD engines, but on a DE I would suggest you start with a throttle body clean and an idle air volume learn procedure. Would be worth cleaning the MAF with an appropriate cleaner too.

There is a section under 'work support' for immo coding, but you need the ECU PIN to use it, I have never tried. Not sure about the central locking remote side, I haven't seen anything in the menus related to that. https://nisscan.com/product/nds-ii-windows-pc/?v=6cc98ba2045f NDS-III for the V36 and other newer cars seems to have a section for the fob - https://nisscan.com/nds-iii-windows-pc/?v=6cc98ba2045f

https://nisscan.com/ They list compatible cables and can do more than a basic OBD2 reader, although not as much as the full Consult II can do.

As with most throttle by wire setups, rarely will the RPM match the accelerator pedal exactly, but it shouldn't hang for too long either. I'm not sure about the VQ25DD, but these symptoms on the VQ35DE can indicate a need to perform an idle air volume learn procedure. They often come about after cleaning the throttle body and not performing this process afterwards.

for $4k I would be wanting something pretty fancy, like a dual plate setup or similar. If you are looking around, just make sure you use the term 370GT, as a GT350 is a Mustang, and they might think down that path if you say GT370. I suspect the 370Z unit would be the same? can anyone confirm?

Looks like superpro may make the LCA bushings, but the rear bushing is $$$ https://fulcrumsuspensions.com.au/search/front-control-arm-lower-front-bush-kit-to-suit-nissan-370z-9995-spf3885k-174309-pid-180558.html?mv=(make%3D[NISSAN] https://fulcrumsuspensions.com.au/front-control-arm-lower-rear-bush-kit-to-suit-nissan-370z-z34-9995-spf3886k-85885.html

The above link is for the Lower control arms are for a V35, not V36, the suspension is quite different between the 2. The Upper control arm bushes are suitable for both. There is no genuine bushes available, but that doesn't mean you can have the bushings pressed out and replacements pressed in, it just depends what is available aftermarket and what you prefer. I have never been a fan of poly bushes in a daily, but that might be your only option if you don't want to replace the whole control arms.

Does the different module need to be paired with the BCM for it to talk? Are you sure the resistors are the correct value to imitate the bonnet actuators? The impact may have damaged one of the sensors behind the bumper too. I doubt any sensor would have the ability to store data, you may need someone who can read the codes to determine what is triggering the light. The pedal dance is really difficult to do with the push button start as it takes a second or so for the button to actually turn the ignition on/off, so you have to compensate for that when pressing the button after 'x' seconds. Nissan Datascan III might work, it can read a lot of the components in the Q50 (but not all).

The are the actual intake and exhaust valves, each cylinder will have 2 of each of them, these are not the variable valve timing solenoids, they are the actual valves. You should be able to find plenty of youtube videos about how an engine works that will describe them well, every 4stroke engine has them, and most cars engines these days have 4 valves per cylinder (2 intake and 2 exhaust) but some have 2 (1 of each)

it looks like the valve/solenoid is built into the cover on the DD - https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/v35/6815-vq25dd/engine/130/13040S/ Compared to the separate valve on the VQ35DE

https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/pv35/6830-vq35de/engine/130/ https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/v35/6815-vq25dd/engine/130/ As far as I can see the guides are the same part numbers for similar years too.

Part numbers are the same, so seems like they are. There is a part number change for the main chain for the Series1 vs series2, but same between the PV35/CPV35 and NV35

Nice, good to hear it went well. my DMF has also been fine for the last 8 years. From what i have heard the heavier SMFs experience less of the chatter issues. Just one point. The claim that a DMF can't be resurfaced is a myth, you just need a workshop with the right tools to lock the 2 sections of the DMF together to allow it to be machined.

A head gasket failure doesn't always present in the same way. A gasket failure between the oil gallery and the coolant will cause the oil to go a milky colour, but generally won't cause a misfire. A failure between a cylinder and the coolant will cause a misfire and will pressurise the coolant system causing it to push the coolant out into the overflow tank and eventually overheat the engine. A test of the coolant for combustion gasses can diagnose this issue. From your description, this could be the problem.

That would be my guess, now the hard part is finding it..

Once you unplug either of the 2 connectors on the fuel tank, the gauge should fall to zero. Since yours does not, you either have a short in your wiring harness somewhere between the tank connectors and the cluster. or the cluster itself is faulty. There is a test procedure in the FSM you can run on the cluster which should cause the fuel gauge to show half, regardless of what the signal from the sender is, this should help isolated the fault to the cluster or the wiring.

You can get the G35 FSM here, it is generally close enough for most things - https://www.nicoclub.com/infiniti-service-manuals What year? the cluster changed from incandescent bulbs to LEDs in 2005. but even then, you can still have bad connections that cause issues, I had a dry joint on a surface mount transistor on my 2005 that caused the odo backlights to go out occasionally. Fuel gauge issues seem to be common too, mine sometimes reads high, then returns to normal for a while, then reads high again, I have never worked it out, I've removed, cleaned and tested both senders, check for bad connections, yet it still occurs Sorry I don't have any solid solutions, but hopefully the FSM is useful.

Since there is no G37s in those years in the country, I am not sure anyone is going to know the feature list that well. anyway, the G37 and V36 370gt probably aren't really comparable, they have different features that were likely available at different times on one platform to the other, or never available on one. Although features will be similar between platforms, I don't think the features list was ever exact enough to be able to claim something like, 2009 G37 = 2008 370GT.

hmm. not that I know of, but possibly, happy to be corrected there! The confusion usually comes around the 2006 Infiniti G35 Sedans, they could either be a V35 or V36 chassis. The G37 sedan didn't come out to about 2009 I believe. You also have to be aware of other differences between the G and V. Like the V not fully OBD2 compliant, no revup engine in the later V35 like the G35 did, no AWD version with the 3.5L engine in the V, etc. One of the several reason it irks me when people call their V35/36 a G.

if you are after the whole service manual, you can download it here - https://www.nicoclub.com/infiniti-service-manuals they are for an Infiniti G35, but most things are the same, at least similar enough for the majority of issues.

I would agree with Duncan. Not sure how easy it will be to diagnose if you aren't familiar with electronics and use of a multimeter, but these 3 pages might help a bit to troubleshoot the switch. As you can see, only the washer pump is operated directly from the stalk switch, the rest are just inputs to the BCM, which controls the motor. Since there are diodes in circuit with each switch position, you will need a multimeter on diode check position. But normal continuity or ohms setting will be fine for the harness testing. ww1.pdf ww2.pdf ww.pdf

I believe they are tucked in a really awkward spot behind the battery so you need to remove a few trim pieces as well as the battery to get to it. As far as I know the relays can be unplugged and tested, I'm not sure how hard it is to source replacement relays though. Have a look here -

Could be a wiper motor or relay.. this may help.. ww1.pdf

Wouldn't you just use red LEDs?

Take it apart and have a look, you can remove most of the casing, then check for bad solder joints or failed components as GTSBoy suggested!