sonicii

sounds like the classic V35/350z axel click.. there is a TSB for it.. i will see if I can find it.. it involves removing the rear axel, cleaning up and greasing the spline and re-assembling.

are the front brake pads for a S1 or S2/3?

I'll take the compression rod bushes and the oil filter if they haven't been taken yet!!

Nice. at least it isn't the evaporator!! that would be a 'dash out' job which is a bit of a nightmare!

Nothing needs to be done on the car if the key is cloned, the car doesn't even need to be available, the car just sees it as exactly the same as an existing working key. My guess is the locksmith couldn't clone that particular type of keychip and used a new key with a new chip and therefore a new code which needed to be programmed into the BCM, thus requiring the BCM code.

I have found that unless they are a large diameter or a highly 'in demand' type of rim, they don't sell well on ebay. I had a set of 16in Maxima alloys a while back, in mint condition, I tried several times to sell them, even offered free shipping to anywhere in Qld, in the end I sold them for $25 for the set of 4 (without tyres).

Have a read through this thread. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/440493-v35-help/

if you are going to all the effort.. use this instead.. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2012-NISSAN-SKYLINE-R35-GTR-ENGINE-ENGINE-VR38DETT-3-8-V6-TWIN-TURBO-4500-KMS-/171269679163?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&fits=Plat_Gen%3AV35&hash=item27e077e83b

EGR functions under certain conditions at all temperatures, it is not a method of warming up the car quicker. In fact it may not be used at all when the engine is cold (not sure on this) I believe the temp sensor is an indicator to the ECU that the hot exhaust gasses are actually entering the intake when the EGR valve opens. If the valve is blocked off, the ECU will see no temperature change in the intake when then valve should be open and throw a CEL.

if the OPs post is correct, he hasn't bought anything yet. He is doing his research..

Direct injection really just specifies the location of the injector. Considering EGR and PCV are emission requirements, newer Di engines are probably just as susceptible to the issues we are seeing in the older VQ DD engines. The advantages we have today is oil manufactures are now making oils suitable for Di engines which result in less 'gunk' in the intake manifold which should at least delay the problem.

Are you sure it is the diff? does the noise come and go when you accelerate/decelerate or is it constant at those speeds regardless of throttle position? it shouldn't be impacting fuel economy or performance unless it is about to fail big time. I haven't heard of any other diff issues on the V35 so perhaps it has been abused earlier in its life.. eg. run with no oil.

I would never recommend any engine oil 'additive'.. the oil manufacturer generally spends a few $$ on R&D to get their oil right, you don't want to mess that up with some additional chemical that the manufacturer didn't intend.

Oh, sorry, I thought you were talking about the VQ in general. The VQ35 manual recommends 5W-30. same as it does for the VQ35 engine in the locally delivered Maxima. But our climate also fits well in the 10W-40 bracket.

I have always run 5W-30 as per the manufacturer spec without any issues, why is this not the correct grade of oil? If the noise only occurs with a cold engine, wouldn't a thicker oil make the issue worse?

There are lots of places any system can leak. As far as I know, there isn't any 'common' leaking components in a V35. common areas are a corroded evaporator and pressure switches, and if you don't run your AC system every week or so, then seals can dry out and leak in the compressor or at the joints.

Good question.. my 05 6sp has it, I just assumed they all did.. maybe it was just the series 2/3 which have a different speedo cluster to the series 1.

My 6sp manual returns between 11.0 and 11.5 L/100km in 100% light city traffic (probably averaging around 40km/h). I have only done one decent highway trip in this car and averaged 7.5L/100km. And that is resetting the trip meter at fillup and caclucating using fuel volume at the next fill up. I don't have navi to give a km/L reading.

Any locksmith that can clone the transponder chip should be able to make a working spare key. Problems arise when you have a new transponder chip with a preset code which needs to be programmed into you BCM. Sounds like you found a good locksmith that cares enough to find a solution for you.. nice work!

they look a bit like J32 Maxima rims, but not quite the same. it is easy enough to put the 'Nissan' cap on just about any rim. Any S2 V35 (sedan or coupe) will require a minimum of 17in rims as they have larger stock brakes than the S1.

Well it depends on what the mechanic means with 'front radius arm', I am assuming he is talking about the lower control arm or compression rod?? Since you have had the lower control arm bushes changed, I can only assume he is talking about the compression rod bushes which are also a common problem on these cars. VDC on my 05 will not bother me unless a wheel actually slips. It is quite sensitive and as soon as you get even the slightest bit of slip it will kick in and correct it. However, I have never had VDC kick in without first feeling or hearing some slip. That said, the rear on my car is a bit too happy to kick out, especially in the wet and the VDC often has to catch it. Traction control is not the same as VDC, although some do confuse the 2. TC only keeps your driven tyres from spinning when excess throttle is applied. VDC monitors steering wheel angle, individual wheel speed and a Yaw/G sensor attached in the middle of the car, and if it detects any loss of control it can cut engine power and apply brakes to individual wheels to correct it.

Anything that could cause the car to turn more or less than it should for the steering input will trigger VDC. Compression rod bushes could do this is they are bad enough.

A friendly Nissan dealer, or anyone with a suitable OBD2 reader with this capability.

you will need consult or any datascan device that can read the steering angle output. It should read zero when the steering wheel is in the 'straight ahead' position. If it doesn't, the VDC will think you are trying to turn more or less than you actually are and then try to correct your path to what it 'thinks' you are trying to do. Consult, or some aftermarket datascan devices will let you calibrate this item if required.

If the locksmith needs your BCM PIN, then he isn't cloning your key chip, he is supplying a new keychip with its own preset code.