sonicii

that is the fun part.. you can unplug the lamp from underneath the parcel shelf (access from the boot). However, you need to remove the rear seat, so you can remove the parcel shelf, the lamp is attached to the bottom of the parcel shelf. Maybe try having someone hold their foot on the brake pedal and ensure the normal side brake lights are on, then, push and flex the cable to the lamp (from the boot side) and see if the light turns on and off. If it does, a bad solder joint is probably the issue and you will need to remove it to repair it.

Mine stopped working about 6 months ago, I took it out, took it apart and found a bad solder joint. I re-soldered that and a few other higher stress joints and put it back it, it has been working fine since. Can't guarantee yours has the same fault though.

They should be correct for all V35 models from nov 2004 onwards (except brembo option) Look up your car on here.. it seems to be fairly accurate - https://dba.com.au/au-part-finder/

Welcome to the group! First question.. do you have twin piston callipers on the front? Twins look like this - If So, you have the upsized brakes that came with the series 2/3. Sadly many parts suppliers refuse to acknowledge this and list the smaller rotors for all V35s. The front rotor size is 320mm and the rear is 308mm. The rear pads are the same as the earlier models, but the front pads are different. You should be able to look up the non-brembo brakes for the 2005+ 350Z to get the correct specs. However, if you have the single piston front brakes like this - Then you have the smaller 296 front 292 rear rotors.

If you are on a budget, I would forget the HR swap. Anything is possible with enough $$, but the HR/VHR has a different bolt pattern, plus the dual throttle bodies will need a bit of customisation to get it to fit in a V35, then who knows how much messing around with ECUs would be required to get it working, given the extra throttle body, plus the HR/VHR also has variable exhaust cam timing, which the standard DE doesn't. Forced induction of your current DE would be cheaper, but you don't really want to skimp on that either if you want the engine to last.

That might be a bit harsh. I have had a late 80s R series skyline, a mid 90s maxima, wife had a mid 00s maxima, I had a mid 00s V35 and now a Q50. They have been an improvement each time. I would t go back to any given the chance.. I would agree, the Renault alliance didn’t do Nissan any favours, beside saving them from bankruptcy.. but Renault didn’t really have that much influence on Nissan vehicles they weren’t co-developing.

French?? Is there anything French on these?? Anyway, I hope you are doing more than just the rear main, you will also want the 2 seals number 11121 and 11121+A as well as dropping and re-sealing the whole upper sump (assuming that is what you are doing anyway). Definitely not a job you want to skimp on, nothing worse than chasing new oil leaks because of something you disturbed but didn't replace in the process.

I know the used market is crazy, but $14,250 seems overpriced for a series 1 auto V35.. unless it is something special.

If you google 'Japan car history check', there is at least one main site, it isn't free though. It will catch some of the slimy tricks like shady operators in japan buying damaged cars at auction, doing a quick repair job, winding back the speedo, then re-auctioning them, of course the dodgy importers here only show you the final auction sheet, not the first one. I don't have an auto, but I don't believe they are a known problem. But like any auto, if you neglect it, it will give you problems.

Engine, transmission, suspension, brakes, all straight from a 350Z, it is really only the body that is different. 'Small import business' scares me, I would get my own japan history check done before buying, make sure it isn't a repaired wreck and make sure the KM when it left Japan line up with what is on the oldest Australian service record. don't trust any history document supplied by the importer, or documents the seller got from the importer.

This sounds like the old 'rear click' that the 350Z/V35 had, due to slight bit of movement between the rear hub and drive shaft under acceleration or braking. https://www.notre350z.com/forum/files/uploads/dold/1207422654_ClickClack.pdf Never thought it could be an issue between the wheel and hub though, if the wheel nuts are properly torqued.

That sounds like the JDM models, they have the infiniti logo on the front, but 'Skyline' across the back, the hybrid wears the 350GT badge too. That said, I didn't think the JDM models were eligible for grey import?? unless they are AuDM models that people have retrofitted with the skyline badges.

Oh, that's easy.. go to a reputable tuner (preferably not the one that claims 50+kw from an ECU tune alone), run it on a dyno for a base figure, plug in your 'special' box. do another dyno run and post the results! Connect and tune your after-market ECU, run it again on the dyno.. post the results.. Or you could save yourself some time/money and listen to the people on this forum that have been down this road for themselves and learn from their experience/mistakes.

A V36 350GT might be the same as the V36 370GT (not sure if the Sedan and coupe are the same part though). V35 350GT is less likely. Have a search through the link Vee posted and compare part numbers

They are the same as the Q50 Hybrid drivetrain. The HV battery pack is built from 12 separate modules, they can be replaced individually. They are around $1.5k each, or if you want to buy the entire pack of 12 cells, you are looking at more like $12k. I have seen 2nd hand HV battery packs on ebay for around $1.5-2k, but they are usually US based, so add another $500-1k for shipping. I know many people mention it as a concern when considering one, but stories of actual failure are still fairly rare, I guess as they age, we will start to hear of more.

Umm.. speed limits.. yes, all JDM cars are capped at 180KM/H. Power restrictions? nope.. there was a 'gentleman's agreement' between different manufacturers back in in the 90s, which is why you see several Japanese performance cars specify 206KW, with plenty of rumours flying about how much the figures on some were understated (Just look at the official R32-34 GTR specs, conveniently all 206KW) However, that was all gone by the time the V series skylines came along. A VQ37VHR with a claimed power figure of 245KW, is going to be fairly spot on and you aren't going to get a whole lot more without spending some $$ on more than just a few ECU tweaks.

Yep, about the best you could expect from an ECU tune with no supporting mods would be about 10-15KW. Anything that plugs into the OBD2 port and claims power/economy gains will be a scam ,just don't go there! At the flywheel, it is quite a bit less at the wheels where a dyno measures power. From what I have read a stock 370Z is around 200kw at the wheels, so the 370GT would be similar.

If you go down the Q50/Q60 RS route, try to get a later model (2018) as the earlier models had issues with the turbos failing prematurely and it is $$ to replace as they are integrated into the exhaust manifold. The RS was available with or without DAS. Interesting, the only people that seem to hate DAS are those that have never owned one. Unless you want to track the car and value as much steering feedback as possible, then DAS is fine. Either the older version or newer (some on the US forums prefer Ver1) Retrofitting a VR into a V36 sounds like $$$ and you end up with a unicorn that may be hard to find someone to work on it and will make it harder to sell. Surely building and turbo charging a VQ37 will yield better results anyway.

Not exactly. Matic S is a newer fluid. Many Transmissions that specified J before S came out, can happily run on S, but they are not the same fluids (same with NS2/NS3 with Nissan FWD CVTs). For example, my Infiniti specifies Matic S for the transmission, but Matic J for the transfer case as it requires a higher viscosity fluid. Sorry, I don't know with any certainty if the RE5 can happily run on Matic S, plenty of forums and web pages say it can..

Matic S is a lower viscosity fluid, if the manual specifies J, make sure it will happily run on the lower viscosity S before you use it.

Out of your list, you haven't mentioned throttle body? how grotty is it?

Ok, wonder if that is normal?? Even my wife's bulky VQ35 AWD Murano does better than that, usually returns around 9L/100km on the highway. V35 6MT returns around 7.5L/100km and my current Q50 is mid to high 6s.

11L/100km highway? are you sure that's right? not 11km/L? as that seems quite poor for highway driving, my V35 gets better than that with urban driving.

They are probably using the 7sp auto from the 3.7 V37, which we also don't get here (not sure about NZ), we only got the 2.2t diesel, 2.0t petrol, 3.5hybrid and 3.0tt. Not sure if any of them are going to be suitable (3.5hybrid absolutely won't be).

yeah, it gets a bad wrap, and if you want to track the car, it probably wouldn't be ideal. But for daily road use, I prefer it to the steering on my V35 now.