sonicii

No idea sorry, I don't have Navi on my car.

That's the one!

If it is a bose HU in a non-bose system, the HU can be modified to turn it into a 'non-bose' HU, but it isn't easy. They are essentially the same internals with some minor changes. I have a bose HU in a non-bose system, and yes the volume is down compared to a correct non-bose HU, but it isn't that bad and I rarely need to run it over 20. It also shouldn't be distorting. The biggest issue is the non-bose HU had a larger fanned heat sink for the audio amp IC. The Bose HU doesn't.

I would like to see some too for my own curiosity. The best I have seen is some on ebay in the high teens. Assuming we are talking coupes here??

I can vouch for 350z springs on a sedan too. I have the 05 revised springs which have a higher rear spring rate, but they don't feel any rougher than the stock springs. I also had the 'sports' stock suspension (red struts). As you can see from the above pics, the wheels fill the guards much better on the lower springs. I don't have much issue with driveways or car park speed bumps, but I need to be careful of gutters or parking bump stops

Have you bought a double din facia with the AC control board to match?

Seriously? sub $10k? I would expect this from a 250GT or 300GT sedan, but that is extremely cheap for a coupe.

front of the S1 and S2 coupe may be the same. sedan front bumper is quite different. S3 will have projector headlights. like this.

You will need to go with a Series1 then, they dropped the brembos from the S2/3 and used larger stock brakes.

Thanks. Oil level is fine. I think the noise was a bit different to heat shield. Also couldn't really hear it from outside the car ( driving next to a concrete barrier). And it was a fairly repetitive/regular noise that changed with engine rpm. I took it for a bit of a drive again today and couldn't get it to happen again. Still a bit perplexed with it. Will try to Capture a video if it occurs again.

The biggest difference with the 6sp manual is the upgraded gearbox (CD009). The earlier units had weak synchros and 3rd and 5th seemed to be the first to go. Some have also suggested the CD009 is stronger. I guess they upgraded the door lock actuators and window motors, as they don't seem to be a problem on the Series2/3. I think most other things are cosmetic, like the centre console and door trims. The front bumper is also different. Tail lights are different on the sedan, not sure about the coupe?? Option of keyless entry/ignition (smartkey) Series 3 (06-07) also got projector headlights. I am sure someone else can think of a few other things!

sorry.. accidental dupliate post..

I think the earlier models had some issues with door lock actuators and window motors/mechanisms. All had issues with the CD jamming eventually, which can cost $$ to repair.. Big thing to check pre-purchase is the Odo reading vs the condition of the car. Look for signs the car has done a lot more work than the odo suggests.. but you are probably aware of that since you own an import already. other than that, just the normal items that would be checked when buying a used car. I have a 6sp manual which is my daily in light city conditions all the time, and I obtain around 11.0L/100km in winter or about 11.5L./100km in summer (heavy AC use). Most mechanical parts are the same as the 350Z, so they aren't too hard to source. I'm in North Qld, and my insurance is around $750 per year, inlcuding glass cover, with NRMA. But I am 38, with a clean accident, insurance and police/traffic history.

the factory coupe 18s sit about flush with the guard on the rear of a sedan, and just inside the guard on the front, 18x8 +30. I had to roll the rear guards just a little as they were just touching the tyre after fitting 350z springs and having the alignment set to factory spec. (245/45 tyres)

It seems to be coming from behind the driver side footwell area. I've never had a collapsed cat, but I would assume that would be more of a random rattling noise, this sound is much more regular and in time with engine RPM? Clutch probably does need a flush with new fluid. It is the one fluid I haven't changed since purchasing the car. Thanks.

Coupe or sedan?

I have a weird ticking/knocking noise that has developed in my car, but only occurs for a few seconds after heavy acceleration and high RPM. it then disappears. Only noticed this the other day when accelerating hard in 2nd gear to 100km/h. it hit the rev limiter, after that I shifted straight to 5th and then to 6th, but then had a metallic sounding ticking sound under light acceleration, it did not occur when decellerating. Everything performed normal, no loss of power, no vibrations or roughness, just the noise. After about 10 seconds, the noise stopped completly. The only way I could get it to occur again was to do another hard acceleration into high RPM. My initial thoughts were an exhaust manifold gasket, as the sound seemed to be about regular enough for a leak on just one cylinder, and changed with engine RPM (not vehicle speed). I have driven about 50km since then (city driving) and haven't had any other issues at all. I took it for another hard drive yesterday afternoon to have another listen to the noise and managed to get it to occur once, even with several attempts. But I am thinking the noise isn't quite metallic enough for an exhaust leak, and am now starting to wonder if it is a clutch/DMF problem. as I couldn't really hear the sound from outside the car (driving next to a concrete barrier). I have been a bit sus of my clutch since I purchased the car, the 'take up' point seems to change at times, and if the clutch gets hot, the pedal doesn't return all the way up. I have also noticed if I press lightly on the clutch pedal while accelerating, I can feel and hear a vibration/knocking sound, this occurs all the time, and has done this since I have had the car. Just after any thoughts/ideas..

Grounding kits aren't necessilary bad, but they need to be designed properly. If someone just throws a kit together without much thought, you can end up with earth loops which will cause all kinds of voltage/sensor related issues. From what I have heard, the grounding kits can help a bit with auto transmission shifts. But you would be much better off cleaning the factory grounds and invest in a shift kit for the transmission.

If the codes re-occur, I would be tempted to disconnect the grounding kit and see how it goes, since they seem to be voltage related issues. Also check you didn't leave any factory ground disconnected.

^^ Agreed.. highly doubt anyone has one 'laying around', they are in demand. Conceptz is another option from USA. http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=3413&Car_Type=G35&UID=20130708155536124.187.115.139

The G35 uses a much larger battery, not sure why the Skyline got a smaller battery, perhaps something to do with space when mounted on the left side of the car vs the right side. Not sure what the maxium size you can fit in ours, but the NS60LS is the battery type I have seen recommended.

I have heard that a simple 'press-off' will only turn it off up to 60km/h, and there is some other procedure for switching it off for all speeds, something like holding the button in for 10 sec.. never tried it myself, so I can't be sure. It should turn off VDC and TC. but I don't think it turns off ABS.

yep, mine gets tested every now and then. There is an off camber roundabout near my house that gets stupidly slippery with the first rain of the wet season.

What do you mean 'true sense'? The 350GTs have VDC that can brake individual wheels when it detects loss of control based on steering wheel angle, wheel speed and yaw sensor. and it does much more than the basic TC that the 300 and 250GT has which just prevent rear wheel spin due to a heavy right foot.. Although VDC may have been an option on those according to the OP's info.

Well, I removed the rear rotors to measure. the right rotor (the one too small) has a diameter of 292mm, and one on the left (correct size), is 308mm. I looked up the DBA page and it seems the 05+ 350z (non brembo) runs 308mm rear rotors, and the pre05 model uses 292mm. I also checked the front rotor size as they are also different between the 2 year ranges of 350z and found mine are 320mm, which the DBA page also lists for a 05+ 350z, the pre05 models have a 296mm fronts. Also, by looking at 'private's' post, it seems the S1 V35 have single piston front callipers, but mine has twin. for some reason, I couldn't find any reference to the V35 having these larger brakes. every page I looked at showed the smaller size rotors for 02-06 skylines.