sonicii

V35s and G35s don't have 'standard Z tubes'. A 'Z tube' is the factory intake duct between the MAF and the throttle body from a 350Z. As far as I know, there isn't different sizes.

You mean something like this... http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=ja&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Fhistory.nissan.co.jp%2FSKYLINE%2FV35%2F0411%2FDATA%2Fmain1_2.html You will need to click on the 'enviroment safety' button at the top, then on the 'enviromental specifications' in the sub menu.. hover over the buttons to get an english version. Keep in mind, the Japaneese use KM/L and Not L/100km, so you will need to convert..

I don't think there are any particular issues.. the weak synchro issue was resolved during the V35 run, so won't be an issue on the V36. Take it for a test drive and see what you think.. the feel of the V35 6MT took a while to get used to, even for experienced manual drivers.

I think he means the engine consumes oil so fast he has to 'refill' every 2k km. which means something is wrong..

That was with the 'rev-up' engine I believe. The V35 never got this version of engine.

I doubt it would have been an option.. A transmission cooler is totally separate, it is only on auto transmissions and uses the bottom of the radiator. The oil cooler is were the oil filter screws on and uses coolant to and from the engine block to cool the oil, so there is no hoses to the front of the car and no 'radiator' looking devices.

ok.. that's weird.. even the VQ35 in the maxima and Murano have an oil cooler. I didn't think there was a VQ35 in any car without an oil cooler..

350GT?? (VQ35)? I don't think the VQ30 or VQ25 have them (300gt or 250gt), but according to the FSM, the VQ35 should have it.

i think all VQ35s have a factory oil cooler. And all 350gt sedans are 'premium'.

I think the compression rod bushings can cause noises too. and they can are also a common point of failure.

Ahh.. ok then, yes I agree..

Don't get too excited.. even the 09+ 370GT only gets 48HP over the V35 350GT,

Nice.. I am sure you will be happy with it!! I have considered upgrading to a V36, especially with some of the prices importers are quoting lately. - I probably would have one by now if the sedans were available in a 6sp manual.. the coupe is a bit impractical for me at the moment and I really don't want an auto.

leaking Gas or leaking water?

I don't know how much works is involved, but like all projects like this, unless you can get a comlete list of required parts from someone who has done it before, you are better off obtaining a complete donor car, that way, when you come across unexpected requirements, you have the parts available (eg, it might need a harness swap, ECU swap, etc)

Do you recall what the specs were before you installed the front and rear arms? My rears were able to be dialed into spec with just the factory adjustments on 350z springs. It's just the front camber that is out a bit..

They are asymmetrical tyres!!. the inside edge will still be on the inside regardless of which side of the car I put them (tyre sidewalls are marked 'inside' and 'outside)'.

I am hoping the wear will be minimal and I won't have to worry about camber arms.. the tyres are asymmetrical (not directional), so I can't flip them on the rim.

Shouldn't be too bad, many parts on the car are the same as the 350gt or the 350z, it is really just some specific engine parts and transmission parts. I would expect normal consumable parts like radiator hoses and spark plugs should be easy enough to obtain. The items that are different aren't really know to fail or be problematic.

when I had a front personalised plate damaged, I needed to return the front one before they would issue replacements, and was told it is ok to run with just a rear plate, as the police could confirm my order for new plates if there was any questions about it. I would expect there should also be some leeway in this situation too.. but it might be different from state to state..

I was more worried about uneven wear with too much camber.. some say I will chew out the inside of the tyre fairly quickly, some say that 1.4deg is nothing to worry about and it shouldn't impact much on tyre life.. I will just wait and see for myself. It makes sense that too much negative camber will wear out the inside edge of the tyre quicker than normal..

Thanks for the tip Sean.. I am going to see how my front tyres fare with the -1.4deg camber with the stock arms.. have done nearly 2,000km (city) on them so far and can't detect any additional wear on the inside edge of the tyre.. I guess I will probably need about 10,000km before I can come to any conclusions.

If you happen to own a 2013 V36... but a 2003 Infiniti G35 coupe is American only.

??? there is absolutly no electrical difference between disconnecting the +ve or -ve terminal first. If I need to disconnect the battery to do any work on my car, I usually disconnect the negative terminal for the sole reason of safety. If I disconnect the Positive terminal, it leaves the positive terminal on the battery exposed, so if I accidently drop a spanner between the exposed positive battery terminal and any other metal surface in the engine bay, it will short out the battery and can damage it, or other components.. and at worst, cause the battery to quickly overheat and explode. By removing the negative terminal, it leaves positive terminal covered with the plastic guard, but even if it didn't have any plastic guard, it also isolates the metal frame of the car from negative side of the battery, so dropping a spanner between the positive terminal and the metal of the car, won't cause a problem.

I'm kind of with you on that. Bogan Holdens with chev badges is probably the reason for my dislike of such things though. Funny part is, in USA it is 'cool' to put Nissan skyline badges on a G.