sonicii

I'm insured with NRMA.. I paid just under $800 per year with glass cover. NRMA usually beat any competitor quote by 10%.. so search around and find something cheap and take it back to them.. AAMI don't do imports.. not sure how the previous owner managed to get them to insure it.. I even asked them when I got my V35 as my previous car was insured with them. Suncorp do the V36, but not the V35.

I would look at the cam/crank sensor too.. a failed fuel pump or air leak will generally cause it to stumble and run horrible for a bit before it stalls.. Check the codes.. it should have stored something if it is a failed Crank/Cam sensor.

If the rebuild kits weren't so darn expensive, I might have been interested to try a rebuild.. but I think a whole new transmission is cheaper than the kit..

Thanks for the info Mat. Just another question.. if there is no front camber adjustment and the stock 350z has about -0.35deg camber, why does the V35 kick out to over -1 deg camber when 350z springs are fitted? Does the 350z have a different stock upper arms or a different steering knuckle to keep the camber correct on stock 350z springs? I was looking at the SP eccentric upper arm bushes, but these only seem to give a +-0.5 deg camber adjustment. I want to get the camber to a reasonable spec so I don't chew through tyres. If I have to, I will spend the money on the SPL arms. I don't want cheap dodgy arms that are going to give me issues.. but just thought I would investigate other possible solutions. Other than price, concern with the SPL arms is the spherical bearing bushes, I am worried they are going to transmit more road noise through to the body than normal rubber bushings.

I have done it twice now on a VQ without issue.. but I will keep an eye on it in the future.. thanks.

Any chance you still have these?

I have never had much problem changing coolant in any car I have had. When filling I usually open the heater tap if possible, crack open the bleader and fill at the radiator. Normally the radiator cap is high enough so some coolant bubbles out of the bleader when it fills. then I squeeze the top radiator hose which causes the coolant to move around a bit and gets rid of most of the bubbles. Then refit the radiator cap, squeeze the top hose again until coolant starts coming out the bleader, hold the hose in this position and close the bleader. Then top up the radiator and overflow tank. I usually find the overflow tank drops a little over the next few days, so I just top off. Never had any issues doing it this way..

are they the SPL Pro arms? how much are they going to cost you? What do you think of the ichiba arms? It looks like I am going to need at least +1deg adjustment from the stock arms and the SPL arms only do max +1, but the Ichiba arms do +2. I am guessing the ichiba arms are steel, and therefore heavier than the SPL arms?

Mine doesn't seem that bad visually.. I can't really notice it by looking (I can take a Pic if you like). I just wasn't sure how bad -1.3deg will be (just checked the alignment report LH -1.34 RH -1.27), so not quite 1.4.. considering the stock sedan setting is -0.05deg and the coupe and 350z is about -0.35 I do plan on keeping the car for a while, but I only do about 10,000km per year, so I am expecting a set of tyres to last me at least a couple of years.

sedan too!!

The V-Spec version of this one.. Lol.. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-V35-GT-R-PARTS-TESTED-WITH-WARRANTY-wheel-nut-/200876609710?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec52dd0ae

I finally had this alignment done today, after speaking with a couple of suspension shops, they all suggested using the standard factory specs for the car and not the 350z specs. They had no issues setting the alignment and got the rear spot on, but there is no camber adjustment on the front, it is toe only, so it is currently running about -1.4deg camber on the front, I'm not sure if this is excessive?? If it is going to to chew throught front tyres twice as fast, then I might have to get adjustable camber arms to correct it.

I have always found Coz's shipping prices quite good.. compared to somewhere like courtesy Nissan, they are an absolute bargain... I have never ordered anything large or heavy though

The exporter is the one who fills out the customs declaration, so how could the importer be the one responsible for a false declaration? Especially since they won't even see the declaration until they have the item.. However, if customs find out the real value, the importer will be responsible for paying the appropriate duty/tax.

I would expect he would be the one in trouble, he makes the value declaration on the customs form, not you.

My only thoughts is you might want to make the payment difficult to track if the seller is undervaluing it to avoid import duty.. last thing you want is customs to get suspicious, check your credit card records or bank records and find a payment to the seller for way over what was declared.. at least with a 3rd party involved, it would be harder to track down.

Sure, but if it is a gearbox input bearing, there is a lot of work involved to access that bearing, and therefore a lot of labour costs for a relativly cheap bearing.. so you have to ask yourself, do you perform a full rebuild while it is apart, so you don't end up with another bearing or syncros failing a few months down the track and having to pay all that labour $$ again. Then of course, when you look at the cost of a full rebuild, you need to consider the price of a new gearbox instead.. Unless of course you are a mechanic and can do all the work yourself..

Depends, the early 'V36' Infiniti came as a 3.5 or 3.7. The 3.5 version was still a G35. But if it is a G37. You will be safe.

Umm. No. 2x2.5in diameter pipes do not have the flow of one 5in diameter pipe. Remember pi x R squared. So you will need 4x 2.5in pipes to equal 1 x 5in pipe.

I think that is probably the S1 Brembos.. there was some class action in USA because of rapid brake wear on brembo equiped G35s.

brakes are a good thing to check too.. if it shows 10,000km on the odo, but has 'lipped' brake rotors.. you will know something is wrong..

Umm. I think you are replying to Haxorz's post made 2 years ago.. manc01 just jumped in to ask how easy it is to adjust the odo.. Not sure exactly, but I believe most tuners would have access to the tools required to adjust the odo to whatever they want. Like with all imports, you should check other items for wear, this will help identify a false Odo reading..

Ok, thanks. I was under the impression the only difference between the V35 and 350z suspension was the spring height, I wasn't aware the mounting points are different too.

Thanks. My thoughts were since all the suspension geometry is now in the position it would be on a stock 350z, then perhaps the standard 350z settings would be appropriate. Several people have said they had no issues aligning with 350z springs, but I don't know which alignment specs they were using. After all, it is only a 25mm drop, which should be in range of the stock alignment adjustment.

gearbox oil is easy to change.. although even easier if you have a hoist... remove the filler plug on the side, remove the drain plug on the bottom and let it drain.. refit the drain plug, fill via the side filler hole until the oil reaches the filler hole.. refit filler plug.. If it needs a new gearbox input bearing.. that is a whole lot more work..