sonicii

I find I need to let the car sit for about 10 minutes after stopping before checking the oil. It seems some oil in the head returns to the sump via the dip stick. Making it impossible to get an accurate reading until it has finished draining. Same on the VQ35DE in the maxima.

There is no VQ35DD engine, the 3.5L engine is not direct injected, so it is a VQ35DE. The oil consumption issues you read about are likely realted to the 'rev-up' version of the VQ35DE fitted to the 05+ Infiniti G35. This engine was never used in the skyline.

My V35 is fairly close. About 2% last time I checked with GPS. And I am running stock size tyres. But our J31 maxima is out by about 8%. Again with stock size tyres.

Looks good, but I'd this really cheaper than rebuilding the VQ and auto box to handle decent boost?

If they specifiy a figure under $1000 on the customs delcaration, you will probably be fine.. but just be aware, Australian Customs has been cracking down on this sort of thing recently.. hopefully they won't estimate the actual cost of the items to be above $1,000 and therefore won't invesitgate.

Import duty and Australian gst isn't paid by the seller, Australian customs will hit you with that when it crosses the boarder for items over A$1,000

Have you factored in import duty/GST?

I recall from another thread that the G35 and V35 window motors are the same.. As Sean said, just make sure you remember G35 Drivers side is left.. Not sure on the windscreens, but I would be surprised if any windscreen company stocks them.. probably an 'order from Japan/USA' item, or from a wrecker.

just in case he doesn't check back here any time soon... hope he doesn't mind! ------- Schroth 3" FIA Harness (black). New $435, sell - $250. Racetech RT4009W & Brackets (very high quality as used by most V8 supercar teams). New $1295, sell - $695. Custom steel brackets to bolt into OEM seat mounts to suit above seat (cost $400), sell - $150 SPL V2 Front Upper Control/Camber Arms (very high quality with shims to stop movement, can adjust from approx +1 to negative 3.5 degree camber). New $670, sell $475. Whiteline sway bars and links (BNF33Z, BNR30Z, KLC110, KLC141). New $858, sell $515. BC ER coilovers, 14Kg FR, 12Kg RR including rear adjuster extenders (less than 1000kms on these!!!). Suprising compliant on the road, great on the track. New $1740, sell $1300. 4 x 255/40/17 Federal RSR 595 tyres - still got 70% tread. New $1160, sell $580. 4 x 255/40/17 Federal FZ201 semi slick tyres - still got 70% tread. New $1532, sell $800. 4 x Rota Grid-R 17x9.5 +12, Matt Black with black steel wheel nuts. New $1035, sell $700. Kinetix V+ 03-06 Plenum. New $325, sell $225. Momentum Performance Long RAM Cold Air Intake (black hammer finish, puts filter out in front of radiator). New $450, sell $315. Z1 Motorsports 25 row oil cooler with thermostatic sandwich plate and protective hose wrap. New $545, sell $395. SHIFTi rpm shift lights. New $176, sell $115. Motordyne Y pipe with single race cat plus spare straight through pipe. New $786, sell $525. Motordyne ART pipes. New $685, sell $445. Uprev cable and software. New $545, sell $395. Nissan 4.08 final gear ratio set (less than 6mths old). New $590, sell $415. Quaife 03-08 Helical diff centre to suit VLSD. New $1330, sell $930. Nismo finned diff cover. New $145, sell $100. Nismo 380RS Gas Pedal. Sell $55.

Jack up the car with both back wheels off the ground, release the hand brake and ensure it is in neutral, turn one wheel, if the other wheel turns the same way, you have an LSD, if it turns the opposite way you have an open diff. You can also just jack up one wheel, with the handbrake off, and in neutral, the one wheel off the ground will be difficult to turn, unlike an open diff, which doesn't offer much resistance.

Brake LSD? The manual V35 uses a viscous unit Inside the diff, like the 350z.

From the pic, I would assume projectors for both high and low beam. thus quad retrofit. High beam is a standard halogen lamp, and is a 60/55W H4 (55W filament is the fog lights, 60W high beam). I believe you can access the back of the headlights by removing the plastic covers inside the wheel arches.

Unlikely to burn your wiring.. as you are drawing 55W from that wiring at the moment, if you have halogens. Just get a decent brand. 50W HIDs in a cheap/dodgy brand, can produce less light than a quality 35W HID.. As for what lamp you will need, it really depends on what you have currenlty fitted, if you can access the back of the lights, remove the current lamp, if it is a H1, buy a H1 retrofit kit.. if it is something else, but the appropriate kit. If the D2R fitting and wiring has been removed, it may be more difficult to track down the required parts to fit D2R lamps back in (perhaps someone with experience here can chime in??)

depends on what has been fitted by the compliance workshop.. I think they are usually H1 for low beam, but someone else here can probably confirm. The factory HIDs are D2R, and like most automotive HIDs, they are 35W. The factory 35W HID lamps will produce considerably more light than a 55W Halogen. Depending on how the compliance workshop converted them, it might not be too hard to convert them back to HIDs. If they left the balast and light fitting attached, you might just need to reconnect the 12V supply to the balast and refit the correct HID lamps. If they removed everything, it might be easier to go with an aftermarket HID kit.

The CVT could probably handle a bit extra power over stock, but I wouldn't push it too much. With standard autos, you can do valve body upgrades, and have stronger parts installed to handle considerably more power than stock.. you don't have this option with a CVT. As for the headlights.. I have heard several people complain about the light quality with Halogens (which should have been fitted during compliance). I still have the stock HIDs in mine, and the light is fine. You could try xenon filled halogen lamps, which are a little brighter than standard halogens. I wouldn't go with higher power halogen lamps unless you are certain your wiring can handle the extra load.

If you get it all installed, I would be interested to know what you think of the JWT Clutch/Fly and how it compares to the factory Clutch/Fly. I am getting sick of the feel of the factory clutch and the narrow engagement window - I have been thinking about the clutch pedal mods, but haven't got around to doing anything yet. The downside is I have heard if you replace the factory DMF with a standard single piece flywheel, you get a lot of chatter from the gearbox which can be annoying at low RPM..

You can download the install/user manual here http://usaspec.com/userfiles/editor/file/pa15infi_20100120_webuse.pdf it also suggested the PA15-INFI connects to the satellite radio unit, but to use the PA15-NIS if you don't have satellite radio as it connects to the back of the stereo HU.

Interested in this too, but I saw this on the USA Spec website.. You can use the USA SPEC PA15-NIS model if the vehicle is compatible with the PA15-INFI but DOES NOT have SAT receiver or if it's NOT pre-wired for SAT. PA15-NIS's functionality is 100% equivalent to the PA15-INFI. PA15-NIS connects to the radio where as the PA15-INFI connects to the SAT receiver. Just a bit worried as this unit is the PA15-INFI

Keep the badges.. looks like it has had a 'backyard' repair/respray job without the badges.

I always fill my tyres with 78% nitrogen.. seems to work well enough!!

At this stage, I would say a 6MT V36 coupe.. but tend to keep my cars a long time, so who knows what opinion I will have when it comes time to retire the V35.

i guess you don't plan on returning the tyres then??

When driving straight, is the steering wheel in the same position it has always been? the VDC system works by measuring speed of each individual wheel, steering wheel angle and yaw sensors (lateral and longitudinal G sensors). A wheel alignment is not likely to fix the issue. If it is a steering wheel angle sensor calibration issue, you would need to get this done at Nissan, but since it was fine before the new tyres, I would guess it is just the tyres.

I doubt the VDC is upset with the slightly larger OD of the new tyres, after all, it seems to cope ok with the different size front/rear tyres on the factory 18in rims. Either the tyres are actually slipping and triggering the VDC, or the steering wheel angle adjustment is out. Did the tyre shop do a wheel alignment, and if so, is the neutral position of the steering wheel a bit different now?

I find the VDC way too sensitive, it kicks in with the slightest bit of wheel slip/spin. But it doesn't kick in with no slip. So I am assuming your tyres just aren't up to the job. Not sure what tyres you got, but how much did you shop around? I was quoted $360ea for 225/45/18 kumho ku36 tyres from a local dealer, purchased the same tyre online from Tempe tyres for $200ea inc shipping and it will be $25ea for fitting and balancing locally.