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Are you sure those documents are for a V37 and not a V36 with 4WS? There is certainly no rear steering components on My Q50S premium with DAS. the DAS system completely disconnects the physical connection between the steering wheel and the rack with just an angle sensor and feedback motor in the column, it does have an electronic clutch that can reconnect a physical connection there is a system failure, but with zero power assistance.

4WS in the V37?? Not in any of the AuDM models that I have seen. If you mean DAS, it isn't 4WS.

I would clean both MAFs and try standard filters and see how it goes. No point going down the tuning route until everything is working properly

sent you a PM

yeah, consult is the nissan tool that all dealers have, you can buy Chinese clones of this which do the same thing. There are other options out there beside Consult (can't say I have heard of anyone using the term 'consult' for devices other than the Nissan devices). I know the nissandatascan software can do the idle air volume learn among other things the basic OBDII tools cannot, but they are not on the same level as Consult. You need to buy your own adaptor though, their webpage lists compatible adaptors. http://www.nissandatascan.com/ You would need NDSIII for the V36

I have a consult clone, as Duncan said, you need to change the region to DOM. If they leave it set to Oceania, they won't get the option to select this model. Sounds exactly like the symptoms you get when you mess with the throttle bodies without doing an idle air volume learn. Very difficult to do it via the manual method. Consult or nissandatascan will do it. Mechanic sounds like they are spitballing..

It will only work if the fault that caused the light is no longer occurring. This process doesn't actually fix anything, it just clears the current SRS codes. If the fault still exists, it will just trigger the code again when the ignition is turned on next.

it is in the FSM.. FSM.pdf

You might not get to many replies since the V36 250GT wasn't eligible for import into Australia under SEVS. There might be some in NZ, but not sure if any owners are on here.. otherwise maybe try the US forums, the V36 chassis G25 should have the same transmission.

Always interesting to read about these 'road less travelled' projects, big kudos for taking it on! I have read a couple of VK56 swap stories and apparently it is a very tight fit, not sure if the 45 is a bit smaller? From what I have read, if you are after outright power, the LS swap is still the way to go, but have big respect for people who take on these different options! Given I almost certainly wouldn't have the patience to do it myself!

Yeah, although the V35 Skyline and the G35 share almost all mechanical parts. They aren't exactly the same, there are different options/features/specs, the G35 Sedan could be had with a VQ35 AWD, no such option in the Skyline. The G35 ECU complied with the OBDII spec as required by US law, the V35 doesn't as it wasn't required in Japan. As above, G35s were LHD only. The V35 never got the VQ35DE rev-up engine the G35 did. If it is a JDM vehicle with the steering wheel on the right side it is 100% a V35 Skyline, not an Infiniti G35. Nissan Consult 3 can read all V35 functions though, where as the V36 and V37 (Q50.Q60), need Consult 3+ to access everything.

I'm a little surprised there was an option to tune the hybrid. I thought the market was just too small and the difficulty of not just tuning an ECU, but the entire hybrid control system so it doesn't mess up the driveability. The Hybrid power control system needs to have a fairly good idea of the power/torque curve of the ICE so transition to and from ICE as well as motor assist and battery charge, is smooth and unobtrusive. They might also be a bit worried about the transmission as it is rated to 600Nm and with 547Nm in stock form, you don't have too much head room before extra work is needed there. Anyway, how did it go? much difference?

I see a lot more V35 Coupes than V36, not sure why either. it isn't like they were more common a few years ago, they have always been a bit rare compared to V35s.

I bought my 05 6MT sedan back in 2011 and it has consistently returned between 10.5 and 11L/100km in the city and around 7.5L/100km on the highway (no idea what that is in km/l), hasn't really changed much at all over the last 11 years, has over 170,000km on it now. Always used 98RON since the handbook specifies 96, although I suspect that may just be what they have in Japan. Definitely 80L tank, I have some of the original brochures from Japan and they all say 80L.

There isn't many 300GT VQ30 V35s, they were only available in the sedan and only series1 and most imports were either the 350GT or 250GT, which were available all the way through to the Series3 V35 (V36 250GT wasn't allowed for import) That said, anything that can read the 250GT should be fine with the 300GT. But can't many any suggestions. NDSII states it supports the VQ25DD, so probably works with the VQ30DD. https://www.nisscan.com/NDSII/index.php?content=supportedcars

Have a look at page 18 onwards - EDIT- scratch that.. it was for a v36..

I had this light on my Q50 when I bought it as the previous owner had unplugged one of the impact sensors for a bit, the above process worked for me, but I had to allow for the time it takes for the system to respond to the start button, so I had to press the button at about the 5sec mark, so the ignition actually turned off at 7sec. so you had to kind of pre-empt the time it takes for the light to turn off. otherwise, you may need something like NDSIII or a consult to clear it. I don't think an OBDII reader will do it, could be wrong though.

It has projectors for low beam, series2 did not have projectors, they came along with series 3.

Not sure what that connector is for, maybe the indicator/parking light? They are series3 headlights. Series 3 are projectors, series 1/2 are reflectors.

there are a few online services that can check on the auction history of the car which will show what the odometer read when submitted to auction and what condition it was in, sometimes you can't trust just the most recent auction sheet either, there are dodgy operators that buy damaged/high odo vehicles at auction in Japan. Patch them up, wind back and then re-auction, the importer then only shows you the most recent auction sheet which makes it all look legit. These online services can check for all auction history, not just the most recent. I would recommend these for anyone even considering buying an import from a local (Australian) yard.

^^ agreed, unless the OP has owned it since about 2007-08 and has done very few km.

not that out of the realm of possibility, an 80L tank with highway economy, it is quite possible. My 6MT returns around 7.6L/100km on the highway, even if you assume 8.0L/100km and you were able to use every last drop of fuel, you would see 1000km. Or 870km with 10L left. That is of course assuming the OP is suggesting that.. the image is hardly self explanatory.

Most tags only work with the correct side facing outwards, if you mounted it on the back on the mirror, then then it would be facing the wrong way. I learnt that the hard way by putting the tag on the dash of a hire car, if you leave it upside down, it doesn't work.

If you are familiar with the NDS software, you can use the NDSIII version for the V36 - https://www.nisscan.com/NDSIII/index.php They also list suitable adaptors, which are different to those used on the V35. I have one that seems to work ok on my Q50, even though it isn't listed as a compatible vehicle.

As I mentioned earlier, in most cases the car is measuring your speed quite accurately, if you can use consult or some other OBD2 tool to display speed, you will see it shows a figure lower than your speedo is showing, meaning your odo and trip meters are usually correct (assuming you use factory size tyres, or at least the same diameter as factory tyres), so no global conspiracy to make you spend more on servicing. It is just the speedo needle that reads high as ADRs require the speedo to read you actual speed or up to 10% above, but never below, to prevent the chance of the speedo ever reading below actual speed and therefore being in breach of ADRs, most manufacturers set the speedo needle to read 5-7% high