sonicii

I doubt the VDC is upset with the slightly larger OD of the new tyres, after all, it seems to cope ok with the different size front/rear tyres on the factory 18in rims. Either the tyres are actually slipping and triggering the VDC, or the steering wheel angle adjustment is out. Did the tyre shop do a wheel alignment, and if so, is the neutral position of the steering wheel a bit different now?

I find the VDC way too sensitive, it kicks in with the slightest bit of wheel slip/spin. But it doesn't kick in with no slip. So I am assuming your tyres just aren't up to the job. Not sure what tyres you got, but how much did you shop around? I was quoted $360ea for 225/45/18 kumho ku36 tyres from a local dealer, purchased the same tyre online from Tempe tyres for $200ea inc shipping and it will be $25ea for fitting and balancing locally.

I'll take them if you are happy to ship to Townsville?

some other discussions on this topic. http://www.zcar.com/70-83_tech_discussion_forum/different_gear_oil_choices_worn_synchros_715101.0.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/267969-gearbox-redline-oil-vs-royal-purple/page__st__40

Never tried dexIII in a manual transmission that specifies a heavier GL4 gear oil. a quick google search turned up several pages that says it is a big NO NO, unless the said gearbox is designed for dexIII, several mentions of insufficient bearing lubrication and bearing cooling and reduced synchro operation (synchros rely on the viscosity of the oil to bring gears into sync without metal to metal contact - also the reason using a GL5 oil in our manual gearboxes results in difficult shifting). I have used 'lighter than specified' gear oil on other manual transmissions and it made the gearbox noisier.

If your 5th synchro is badly worn, no oil is going to fix it, thicker or thinner. Thinner oil may result in a noisier transmission, thinker oil may result in harder shifting (with the good gears). To be honest, if you don't want to spend the money on repairing or replacing the gearbox, then just skip 5th gear.. it's a close ratio box, just accelerate to 60km/h in 4th, and drop it straight to 6th. Not ideal, but cheap... Left mirror will always close quicker than the right, it's on more of an angle to start with.. the right mirror has to move further to close. Compression rods are an easy fix if you have access to a press. As for the central locking. it is in a particular location? My wife has found the securty camera system at the Townsville hospital car park interfere with her central locking (wireless cameras, probaby on the same frequency band), if she parks under one of the cameras, she needs to use the key to lock/unlock the car.

What about those cat electric mats you can buy for keeping cats off your kitchen benches. Can't see why they wouldn't work on your car?

Sorry to bump an old thread, but I had my front and rear wheels off on the weekend and the coupe 18s are the same size front and rear (18x8JJ +30) so I still don't know why they are stamped 'front' and 'rear'. I took some pics if anyone wants to see it. The only thing I can think is the run a staggered tyre size and it might help prevent a dodgy mechanic getting them mixed up. But you think it would be easier to just check the tyres..

If you have a V35 250GT, the stock engine is a VQ25DD, not a DE.

Yes, my point is the G model does not specify chassis type, only engine size.

If it is anything like Infiniti USA, it will have the code name G37 and that’s it, and if they are releasing it at the end of this year, it will be the same as the Skyline V36.. when the V37 is released, the G37 will likely be upgraded to the same.. In USA, the Infiniti G35 model covers both the V35 and the V36 and I have only ever seen them differentiated by specifying the year, so I guess there isn't any other code to tell them apart. However, we should stil be able to import a V36, provided it was originally sold in Japan before the G37 hit the showroom here.

I love the honesty!!

^^ interesting. good to see there is still some common sense in our legal system .... don't know how it fits in with this thread though?? Surprising on what you can make bible passages appear say when you fail to quote all of it..

The oil changes colour and turns to 'crap' due to contamination.. a high quality synthetic is not immune to contamination any more than a $30/bottle dino oil. Some synthetics are a lighter colour and sometimes almost clear when new.. Dino oils often have more colour and are opaque when new. If they look different new, of course they will look different after 5-10,000km..

I would expect it would be determined by the date they go on sale here in Aust. like they did with the R35 GT-R. possibly the reason nissan are releasing the V36 here toward the end of its model life instead of wating for the V37.. it will prevent anyone sneaking some V37s in before they can get the infiniti version of the same car on the showrooms here.

^^ I have heard people suggest you are better off using a good quality dino oil and changing it more often, than using a expensive synthetic and changing less often..

I assumed he meant an oil change after 10,000km, or 10k km?

The colour of the oil after 10k km isn't a indication of the quality of the oil.

Interesting read, but not really relavant, you can't just do one test and then proclaim the oil that performed best in that test as the most appropriate oil for any engine without testing all other conditions the oil will face inside an engine. Especially if the test conditions exceed any conditions found in an engine.

Have they released pricing for the G37s? Can't imagine they will be the same price, or more than the M series?

I disagree.. when you say GT-R, you think beast race car. The skyline name on its own has been quite varied over the years.. After all there was a Australian Built R31 Sedan and wagon that would hardly fit into the 'race car' catergory and more into the 'company fleet cars', and family wagons. There were far more R series skylines that I wouldn't consider in the class of 'race car', fitted with RB20DE, RB25DE engines.. or the stock turbo versions of each which still produced less power and torque than the VQ35DE in the V35.

When it comes to the R series, I prefer the look of the R33 as an overall package.. I find the R32 looks too dated now. and the R34 seems like the designers tried too hard (except the front!!) The R34 GTR with the big chunky rear spoiler isn't my cup of tea..

hmm.. maybe, they are meant to be a different class of car to the R34. I just can't bring myself to like the back of the R34.. the front looks awesome though!!

For a normal road car, you will be fine with a decent qualtiy 'off the shelf' dot4 fluid. If you do any track work, or other driving which requires excessive repeated braking, then go with a higher spec fluid with a higher boiling point.

I find mine too sensitive for my liking too, but it only kicks in when I start to lose traction. For example, jump on the throttle a bit too hard in a corner, as soon as there is the slightest loss of traction on the inside rear wheel, TC kicks in an cuts power.. From the above description, I assume you are talking about VDC, not TC? TC only reduces engine power when it detects wheelspin. The VDC system works on the wheel speed sensors, G and Yaw sensors (essentially the same thing). and steering wheel angle sensor. When you turn into a corner, it determines lateral Gs you should be pulling based on the steering wheel angle sensor, if they don't line up, it intervenes. It cannot detect bad suspension components directly, but if those components cause wheel slip, or change in steering geometry, it can trigger the VDC. Nissan recommend a steering angle adjustment is done when you have a wheel alignment done, to teach the VDC system the correct 'neutral' steering wheel position. I believe this can only be done using consult (although the nissan datascan author is working on an upgrade to his software). No idea why yours changed with the mods you did. If the grounding kit fixed it, I would be searching for the bad factory ground point..