sonicii

^^ pretty much.. yes. obviously with minor differences to suit the country they are going to.. eg. Navi, and other local design rules. Is the Australian G37 going to be a V36? seems a bit strange, since they are supposed to be releasing the V37 next year.. you would think they would just wait and release it here too.. I thought that was why they are delaying the release of the G37 here?

I did hear at one stage that it was a Carlos Ghosn idea, the Nissan designers weren't going to give it the Skyline label originally. Maybe that is what has upset the R series guys? However, i can understand why people would get upset with a Skyline Crossover..

^^ agreed.. after all, what makes it not a 'real' skyline? it doesn't have an RB, but neither did the pre R series skylines. No turbo.. but a stock 350GT produces more power/torque than any stock non GT-R R series (although the R34 25GTT comes close depending on who's specs you read). Sure, we can't import the AWD version, but they do exist.. All I can think is the styling makes them less agressive looking.. but the early prince skylines weren't exactly 'agressive' looking, and no-one dares question their authenticity..

In USA I can kind of understand.. the Skyline has been a 'desirable' car which was unavailable as LHD (at least in GT-R form), in the R series. So it could be seen as 'cool' . In Aust.. no-one knows of infiniti, so it would just be a personal taste thing, and not really a 'cool' thing. Never can understand the Holdens with the Chev badges.. like anyone would want people to think they have an american car...??

No 6MT option I see.. typical

This should be ringing huge alarm bells.. - It is not a 2006.. could be a early 2004 at best.. possibly older.. - Sold on ebay just weeks ago!! - which is weird, because the carsales ad says the ad was last modified in June!! - Selling for a very very cheap price. - If the VIN really is for a sedan, I would definatly be walking away, and alerting authorities. (although the VIN listed in the ebay ad is a 'CPV35' which is a coupe VIN, the sedan VIN will be a ...PV35...) it has Series 1 tails, AC controls, speedo cluster - Series 1 ended in late 2004.

I would say this probably isn't the reason, the revs only peak to 2000rpm for a second then drop back to about 1500rpm, which is where most cars idle when cold. If the intention was to heat the cats and O2 sensors, it would need to stay at high rpm for much longer.

have you done the idle air volume learn procedure? After cleaning my throttle body, it wouldn't idle much below 900 until I ran this process. I guess the VQ35 in the Stagea is probably setup the same. The VQ35 in the Murano and Maxima don't rev anywhere near as high at cold startup.. not sure why our cars need to?? I know they are tuned differently, but I am not sure why that would make a difference.

Sucks we don't get the revup engine here.

not sure why it does it.. the VQ35 in other cars doesn't rev that high.. but it does seem normal for the V35.

Same as Sean, sometimes peaks at over 2000rpm on cold mornings, but only for a second, then quickly drops back to about 1500rpm, then drops slowly until the engine is warm, then sits on 600.

Lol Jetwreck.. based on your reply, I guess you quoted but didn't read what I said... - one again for good luck - 'I never claimed they don't do anything or are a bad idea'. - just skeptical based on experience. Scott - thanks for the reply.. good to see someone else has actually questioned the concept.. sometimes I think these items are like a religion.. 'thou shall not question'. I have been burned by 'everyone raving about the results' before, so I am just after something more.. unless I happen to have the spare cash that I am willing to risk.. which I don't at this stage. but if I ever do, and get the same results as everyone is claiming, i will be more than happy to tell everyone..

^^ if you wanted it bright all the time, replacing the light sensor with a suitable value resistor will probably do the trick.

Jetwreck, thanks for the partially sensible/reasonable reply, I was starting to think all I would get for disagreeing is flames.. Firstly, I never claimed this would make no difference or is a bad idea.. just that I am highly skeptical about simple braces making much difference. To your question, if the S2 V35s have the extra bracing, and it makes so much difference, why don't we ever hear people claiming how much better a stock S2 V35 handles compared to a stock S1 V35? In regard to the J30, yes it was a luxury designed vehicle, and will never handle like a 350Z, but there were many, many posts, on Australian forums and US forums, singing the praises of the FSTB and front lower tie bar, lots of 'huge difference', 'best bang for buck mod', 'car handles so much better', 'corners much faster' claims (it's amazing how much the placebo effect works), I already had stiffer springs, and stronger whiteline sway bars, and figured the chassis wouldn't be designed to handle the extra stress, and would flex more than a chassis of a 'performance' car, which would be stiffer in stock form. So it makes sense that bracing would be more noticeable in this situation. I ordered both the FSTB and Lower tie bar, and they had no noticeable difference to vehicle dynamics. After stating this on the forums, i got 1 of 2 types of replies. firstly, flamed for 'not knowing a thing about cars', or 'would know handling if I fell over it'. (similar to what I see here) or secondly, lots of backpedaling like 'you will only notice it if you have other suspension mods (which I did have), and 'you will only notice it on track/circuit events, and not with normal street driving'. Feel free to correct me here, but I figure the only thing bracing can do for handling is reduce wheel camber and caster changes on rough roads or heavy cornering, there is no way it can reduce body roll, or make the car itself sit flatter in the corners. If the stock chassis is flexing so much to cause noticeable instability under normal street cornering and rough roads, when you already have uneven surfaces, stones, line marking, etc. Then I would expect to find cracks in the chassis after a couple of years. As I said.. I am not saying these don't do anything, and I am more than happy and willing to be proven wrong. I am just outlining the reasons for my skepticism.. and a link to a page with a few 'stress measurement' graphs with no axis labels and no notes to show how the figures were obtained, doesn't mean much. Given my previous experience, a few people saying 'huge difference', 'corners much flatter' doesn't hold much weight either. If I had a spare $200 or so that I didn't know what to do with, I may have even just given it a try for the sake of curiosity. Perhaps if someone was to do a few 'blind' back to back tests and was able to determine 100% of the time if the bar was fitted or not, it would be a credible result. - ok, bring on the flames!

Australian Nissan mechanics don't get trained on imports. Some dealers are ok, some outright refuse to work on them. Do a search on this forum for any suggestions. If you can't find anything, ask. A good independent mechanic is often better than dealer mechanics for most cars anyway.

^^ don't say that!! my NRMA policy is due for renewal in a couple of months time...

There aren't really any major issues with this particular type of car, so you really need to concentrate on the same process you would with any car. Get a mechanical inspection - ask them to check for major accident damage/repairs. - unless you are a mechanic or are happy to check yourself. Ask for a service record, at least for the time it has been in Aust. Maybe give vicroads a call and see if they can do a history check, might be more accurite since it is registerd in Vic. $14,500 is a good price if it is a sedan. It's a bargain if it is a coupe (almost think it is too cheap for a coupe..??) Genuine KM is difficult one on any import.. you can only check for other signs that the KM aren't right, like excessive seat wear, excessive pedal/carpet wear, brake rotor wear. although at 120,000km, you would probably expect some wear on these items anyway. I'm in qld, and purchsed mine from Vic.. I just paid with a bank cheque, but I had a friend on the ground who didn't hand the cheque over until the car was dropped off at the carrier in the described condition. Servicing shouldn't be any more than most other cars, they are mechanically a 350Z with a different body, so most 350Z parts will fit. If you need anything V35 specific, there can be a bit of a wait while you source parts, and they can be expensive. But the USA Infiniti G35 is the same, so you can pick up parts for a good price from there if you can afford to wait.

I found the price, but I couldn't find the year? I'm not actually interested, but if somone is, they will probably ask this.

Well, it seemed to get a bit off topic anyway. Feel free.. Why is it that some seem to get so upset when you question their results? I got the same result when I told people the FSTB on a J30 maxima did nothing.. with plenty of people claiming it 'significantly reduced body roll', despite the fact no bracing can do that.

Some could be 'show offs', other may just be skeptics..

You can get HIDs in a range of wattages, but as pv35gt8 said, you will need the ballast to suit.

On mine, the dash lights don't dim until it gets dark enough, so if you turn on the headlights in the middle of the day, the dash lights stay at full brightness.

ouch.. with those repair figures a write off is a possibility.. how much is it insured for? If the insured value is $20k or under, I would expect them to write it off.

Don't listen to the towing company.. abosolutly you should tell your insurance company, this is exactly why you pay them all that $$. As Paul stated, give them the details and the police report or report number, and they will deal with the rest

Coupe will probably be fine.. Sedan would need the guards rolled for sure.