sonicii

Doubt the existing models will appreciate in value much.. if you can still import a 2012 370gt coupe for $40k-$50k in a year or so time, people aren't going to pay $60k-$70k for one locally when they can import their own much cheaper.. with the exception of a few people with more money than brains..

$85k.. Mayb $89k for the convertable.

I am fairly sure the connectors are different between the Series 1 and Series 2. the Series 3 may be the same as the 2. PM Chris Rogers.. he will know.

By the look of the pics.. it is for a coupe..

my sedan does it.. if it doesn't happen, maybe your ABS isn't working.. All ABS systems do some sort of test like this, but most don't have the actuator attached to the firewall, so you don't hear it.

probably ABS, maybe next time hold it in 1st until you get past the speed it normally shifts to 2nd, if it still does it, it is most likely the ABS, if only does it when your transmission actually shifts to 2nd, it might be a transmission issue.

The thing is, do you really notice the RHD headlights lighting up the left side of the road? not really, so you probaly aren't going to notice LHD headlights shining in the face of oncomming traffic either.. especially with normal street lights lighting the middle of the road.. that doesn't mean they don't.. there is a reason they make LHD and RHD headlights, and not 'one size fits all' Turn on your normal headlights at night then stand about 30M in front of the car, but off to the left, you will notice how bight the lights are in your face. this is exactly what it will be like for oncomming drivers if you use LHD headlights.

^^ what they said.. the ABS does a self test when you reach about 15km/h. Since the actuator is mounted on the firewall, you can hear it inside the car.

Can't say for sure.. they should be a straight bolt in, but when it comes to wiring them up, I can't tell if they have ballsats for the HIDs (the info seems to suggest they are HID).

If it was complied properly, the HID lamp and ballest would have been removed, and a standard halogen lamp and fitting installed. You don't need to buy Xenon halogen lamps, as they are just normal halogen lamps with traces of Xenon gas added to the halogens inside the lamp. If you have normal halogens, and you want to go back to factory HID headlights, you will need to get a factory HID ballest as well as the HID fitting and re-wire everything back to how it was originally. Or you could buy aftermarket HID headlights, which would also need an aftermarket ballest. That said, there are plenty of examples of V35s which were not complied properly and still have their factory HID lamps.

looking at the title, it looks like they are made for a Infiniti G35.. it also has US in the title.. I can't read japaneese, but this makes me think it will be for a US spec G35, so probably LHD.

30 is the correct profile for 20in rims with those width tyres.. the stock 18s run 225/45 and 245/45. 245/30 and 275/30 will give the closest overall diameter on a 20in rim.

http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=3414&Car_Type=G35&UID=20120714222008118.208.11.44 Doesn't have the dual AC button, but I believe that is a simple swap job from your existing AC controller if you are handy with a soldering iron.

D2R is the type of HID light used by the manufacturer for low beam. if you car was properly complied after import, the HIDs would have been removed and replaced with halogen lamps. looks like the low beam reflector has falled off on yours, but I can't really see the actual lamp properly. The High beam and fog lamp section is a halogen lamp from the factory. the easiest way to tell if you have HIDs is to watch them when you turn them on, they generally take a few seconds to reach full brightness and tend to be a bit bluish until they have properly warmed up. Halogens are generally at at full brightness almost immedeatly (less than 1 second).

it isn't a matter of aiming, it is an issue of the shape of the light pattern. RHD headlights have a light pattern that 'kicks up' on the left to properly light the left side of the road. LHD light pattern kicks up on the right.. straight into the face of oncomming drivers.. if you tried to adjust a LHD head light low enough to stop it blinding oncomming drivers, the main light pattern would be so low that you wouldn't be able to see much more than 2 M in front of your car! I have head stories of people dismantling the projector headlight and removing part of the reflector to make the light pattern flat, which I imagine would then be legal. no idea if you can do this with G35 headlights though. You can be defected for using LHD headlights here. besides the inconsiderate issue.

I think the cut off for repairs is more than 20% in most cases.. I have know people with $30,000 cars which needed $12,000 of repairs after an accident and the insurance company repaired it. From what I understood (but could be wrong) the cut off is 20% less than the value of the car. so if the car is insured for $10,000 and repairs will be more than $8,000, then it's a write off. it doesn't make much financial sense for an insurance company to pay out $10,000 for a write off, when they could have paid $2,500 in repairs. To the OP, if you don't have comprenhensive insurance, then you might not have much to go on if you get a 'low ball' figure. all I can suggest is ring a few insurance companies and find out how much they would insure your car for (if it wasn't damaged), companies like shannons or just cars (to mention a few). You can then go back to the insurance company making the low offer and ask them to increse it based on the figures you get. Maybe have a look on car sales and see how much a similar car is selling for.. this might help your case too. However, if they feel they can justify their figure, I don't like your chances of getting it incresed.. especially since you aren't one of their customers. You could try going to your 3rd party insurance company and see if there is anything they can do from their side (assuming you mean 3rd party property, not 3rd party compulsory included in your rego). But I doubt there is much they can do either.

Most insurance companies will have a set value for the car, if you have comprehensive insurance, it should be listed on the policy.. if you don't have comprehensive insurance and you are relying on the insurance of the 'at fault' vehicle.. it could get a bit tricky if that company doesn't insure imports, as they may not have a listed market value. - in this case you might want to try calling a few insurance companies who do insure imports and ask what value they would insure it for.. that way you have some ammunition if you feel it gets undervalued.

There are a few reputable importers around, have a search on the forums, there have been a few posts on the topic. KM and vehicle history are very difficult to confirm with imports.. certainly get it checked by a good mechanic, ask them to check for accident history and signs the KM are incorrect. Tell tail signs of fake KM are wear on brake disc rotors, wear on drivers seat, steering wheel, pedals, carpets, etc. at 17,000km there should be very little wear on any of these items. If the brake rotors are lipped on the edge, you can be sure the KM are wrong. A good mechanic or panel beater will be able to check for major accident repairs. That said, if it is a fresh import 17,000km is not unbelievable.. most people in the large japaneese cities don't drive on a daily basis...

Ahh.. you have a coupe.. sucks the sedans get a sub and the coupe doesn't... Have a look at a few?? Lol.. because they are so common and all.. I think I have seen one in the flesh while it was driving in the other direction. Kind of shuts down your 'there was never a sub in any V35. Don't know where you got that from?' comment though.. Anyway.. glad you are happy with the setup!

the single 8in speaker in the center of the parcel shelf is considered a sub.. the non-bose systems did not have this, they only have the door speakers. If you have a bose system an don't have the sub in the parcel shelf.. someone has removed it at some stage.. You should also have a small amp under the parcel shelf toward the left side, if you have a true bose system. A quick search on the forum should yeild plenty of information.

Some parts are the same as the 350Z, the newer 350Z runs the same VQ35HR engine, but there are plenty of other parts which are unique to the V36. Normal servicing should be fine. You can run into issues if you have faults that need repair.. even some Nissan dealers will refuse to plug in their consult tool to check error codes. But if you can find a good dealer or mechanic that is familiar with the skylines, you should be fine. Running costs have been good for me, but I do my own servicing and mechanical work, fuel economy is good - 11.5 to 12.5L/100km in the city, average 8L/100km on the highway. The auto may be a little worse in the city. Insurance is about $750 per year, but that's mainly because I'm old (37) and have a clean accident and license history. I have heard figures of over $2k for young drivers or bad history. hope that is the type of info you are after.

if he has a Bose system.. he does have a sub.. unless he has removed it??

You are really looking at different cars for different markets, so it is going to be hard to compare... The big holden and ford V8s are going to give you more interior space, easy availability for parts, and considerably cheaper parts.. but they do come with the 'knuckle dragger' reputation.. especially the HSV.. Imports are always going to be more expensive for parts, and some will need to be shipped here. This may change a bit when Infiniti sell the G series cars here, but they are likely to be V37s and are coupes and convertables only, so I'm not sure which parts will be compatable with a V36. General service items are 'off the shelf' items here, so no issues there (oil, filters, fluids, etc.) The 350GT is probably going to struggle to keep up with the latest V8 offerings from ford and holden for outright acceleration. if this is a concern, the 370GT may help a bit there. That said, I would take the V36 anyday over the ford/holden options, superior quality, better ride and handling, nicer looking (understand this is personal choice). Fuel economy is going to be better in the V36 and any decent mechanic should be able to do normal servicing. Running costs should be better in the Nissan.. unless anything breaks.. which is probably less likely with the Nissan anyway.. (better on fuel, cheaper to register, probably not much difference in insurance, etc) Challenges can arise if you want to modify it.. especially in regards to adding a aftermarket stereo, alarm system, etc.. you really need to have someone who knows these cars doing the work or it will end up in tears.. No idea about the english conversions.. the S2 V35s haven't been done yet.. so I wouldn't hold my breath for the V36.

I had a look at the install instructions for the window closer module and there is no mention of any wiring to the window motors or buttons? only to the door lock position, the door lock motor, power and ground.. how does it close the windows?

Currently true.. all G37s will look that same as our V36.. but the 2007+ G35 is also the same as our V36.. and if the next series of skyline (V37), has a 3.7L engine, it will also be called a G37 in USA. So it could be potenitally misleading to make a direct G vs V comparson.