sonicii

Not exactly, maybe 30 years ago, but these days alternators generally use electronic regulators. These regulators have their own +12V supply (from the battery) and Gnd and can drive the battery light/LED separatly and can trigger the light even if the brushes wear out and fail to make contact. However a failed regulator and a few other faults can cause no or reduced alternator output and not trigger a battery light.

^^ The alternator's regulator can fail and not show a 'battery' light on the dash.. I have had 2 alternators fail like that.. I have also had a 1 diode short in the diode pack, which allowed it to generate enough power so a battery light didn't show, but not enough to charge the battery.. made a horrible howl though.. In the OPs case, I think the alternator will be ok, you can check it yourself if you have a multimeter, or just take it to a one of the battery outlets.. many of them will do a free test.

^^ as they said, replace the battery, and get the alternator checked.. The symptoms don't necessarily mean your alternator is dead, the battery can fail and not accept a charge from a good alternator which would result in the same symptoms you are seeing. In fact, since you were able to drive for 20mins with no issues after the first jump start, suggests your alternator may be ok.. The guy who tried to tell you it is a broken timing belt, has no idea.. espeically given your car doesn't have a timing belt..

I am surprised they were able to chip the side window glass. Tempered glass is quite hard to damage or break, and usually if you do manage to chip it, the whole window shatters. I have never tried the DIY window repair, but as you say, it is worth a try, I doubt you could do any damage, the worst is likely the repair won't take, and fall out, it also may not be as clean/invisible as it is with laminated glass. As for replacements, I would be looking at some of the wreckers that specialise in Nissan or import vehicles.. I am sure someone on here will jump in and give you a few options soon.

The Nissan units. like this one. http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=3413&Car_Type=G35&UID=20120403142840123.211.29.49 or contact Chris, he can also source them for you.

^^ CVT was only available on the 350GT. I would say it sounds more like an electronic/TCU issue causing it to select 3rd instead of 1st from a standing start. probably best to start by getting the TCU codes read.

^^ agreed, you could probably buy the real double din facia/ac conrols, and a basic double din HU for that money. However, as to the OP's original question.. yes, it should work ok.

^^ agreed.. I don't think the cover is separate.. it's all part of the airbag.

Tyre sidewall height of a 235/45 is 105.75mm. The sidewall height of a 235/40 is 94mm. Overall tyre diameter changes by 23.5mm but radius only differs by 11.75mm (axel to tyre edge) which is the amount the axel will be closer to the road.

Actually only about 11-12mm but still lower than stock.

Usually resetting is necessary on any windows that have the 'auto' up/down feature.. so only the drivers side should need resetting..

Thanks.. I have been getting sick of cleaning small leaves out of the brake/clutch master cylinder area.

I thought that stuff was only designed for interior parts? It might not cope too well with the weather. There is always vinal wrap, but I think that looks hideous too..

Because??? Many people have done this and recommend it.. lowers by about 25mm without sacrificing too much ride quality.

I rarely scrape in a stock sedan.. with the exception the front bar on gutters or those 'bump stops' when parking.. the front of the car is quite low, but since the front wheels are so far forward it is rarely an issue on driveways or speed bumps. Currently looking for a set of 350Z springs and shocks.. that might make scraping more of an issue...

Should be a straight bulb swap, as long as they are D2R..

^^ yep, did those tests too on my J30 before and after installing a grounding kit, couldn't notice any difference on the signals from the CAS, AFM (MAF), Speed sensor, TPS, or on the Transmission Revolution sensor. But my factory grounds were clean and in good shape. Although I used a Fluke Scopemeter.. haven't seen a working CRO in a few years now. (unless you are using the term generically.. not really meaning Cathode Ray..). I guess Nissan could have gone backwards with their wiring quality over the last 15+ years.. but as vimana said, sensors don't need anything near the size of grounds compared to those requried by high current devices like starters, AC compressor clutches and ignition coils, and they all seem to work ok.

^^ that is true for cars that only have 1 cam/crank sensor.

I am sure there was a write up on g35driver about spring ride heights, spring rates and possibly markings (dots), I don't have a link though.. sorry.

^^ this is pretty much the reason I installed one on my J30 years ago, many people clamied significant improvements, and I figured for a few $$ (I made my own too and is was much less than $50), it is worth the experiement..

You will just need one that has the correct antenna connector for your car, other than that, there is nothing specific to the V35 about them. I have my old one somewhere in my garage cupboard at home which I removed when I fited the G35 HU. I will see if I can find it.

Agreed. I am not trying to point the finger at anyone or insult anyone. But sometimes it can be hard to separate the placebo effect from actual benefits on issues like this. For example, I have had people swear that a strut tower brace has reduced body roll, even though it is impossible for a strut tower brace to do such a thing.. I even have a picture of a newspaper artice with someone claiming a transmission cooler has improved engine power by about 10%.. Personally I can't technically understand how a grounding kit can possibly do anything on a car with good factory connections and ground points, but at the same time, someone may see real benefits from a kit, quite possibly due to an existing, but unknown, fault with their wiring. At the end of the day, people are going to add these kits anyway and many are going to claim benefits. so it isn't really worth the battle..

I tend to agree. I see grounding kits as an opportunity for a company to make some money off people who don't want to clean their factory ground points. I put a kit on my J30 Maxima many years ago, it did absolutely nothing. As for the V35/36, there has been differing opinions, some say it made no noticeable difference, others say it only sharpened the auto shifts. Either way, I have an 6MT and my technical background tells me not to bother with a grounding kit. You really don't need an intimate knowledge of every car to make a technical determination on a product like this.

Not sure about the V coupe, but the 350Z springs are lower than the standard sedan springs, and slightly stiffer. There was one model of Z that had very stiff springs. Not sure which model, but I am sure someone will jump in and fill you in.

^^ only S1s came with Brembos, S2 6MT had standard brakes.