sonicii

You should be using at least 95, don't use 91 except in emergencies. you can get knocking with 91, and the ECU will retard the ignition timing to prevent engine damage, this will result in reduced performance and economy. You can use 98 (V power) if you like, I didn't get any benefits from 98, but you can give it a try, some people claim to get better fuel economy with 98.

I always have to translate km/L back to L/100km to make sense of it. L/100km is the industry standard. No idea why they show km/l in the V35, all the Aust. delivered Nissans show L/100km. I am guessing it makes it easier to convert the system for the G35, which is MPG, and a higher figure is better.

depends on how you drive. I get about 12.5L/100km with all city driving in summer (better in winter), so I theoritically could get about 620km per tank, but the fuel light normally comes on at about 500km. That is a 350GT 6sp sedan. If your right foot is a bit heavy, the economy will drop off fairly quickly.

I have wondered the same. the most fuel I have put in my 350GT sedan is about 62L and that was with the fuel light on for the last 20km and the gauge showing just over the empty mark.

I think there are a few inaccuracies on that page. I don't think any V35 has an engine with electromagnetic variable valve timing, I believe that came with the VQ35HR in the V36 skyline. It also states the 350GT has a direct fuel injection system, but the VQ35 never had this, it was only available on the VQ30 and VQ25, neither of these engines were fitted to the coupe, and obviously not to any 350GT. Also, only the G35 got the 298hp (revup) engine in 2005, the V35 missed out on this.

The light pattern is different. the light pattern for a LHD headlight will kick up to the right, which will blind oncomming drivers. RHD headlight have a light pattern that kicks up to the left to light the side of the road.

Was it this one? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/280963-list-of-v35-lights/

Need more info.. Coupe/Sedan? premium/non-premium? Auto/Manual? If it is a sedan, is it a 250, 300 or 350GT? Even then, you will need to check for indications the KM are genuine.

I believe the CVT was only available on the 350GT sedan (called a 350GT8), if it is a 300GT or a 250GT then it will be a standard 4 or 5 speed auto

Maybe no-one keeps the broken units?

+1 for the cabin filter idea. the diagram looks like a typical 'filter' symbol. replace or clean the filter and see if it goes away??

ok.. so the 'VQ problem' is the fact the whole cover needs to be replaced, not that it leaks at some point? as every car I have ever owned has had a rocker cover gasket leak at some point, but is generally fixed with just a rocker cover gasket.

ok.. I was thinking of a used import (V35 or V36), where manuals usually sell for more.

^^ don't manuals cost more? I don't think I would ever buy an auto if I had the option of a manual.

Is a leaking rocker cover gasket really that common to V35s alone? don't all cars do this after a certain age/km? At least every car I have owned has at some stage.

I live in Qld and purchased mine from Vic. I would guess the process would be similar for you, but basically you need to de-register the car in the original state and register it in your state. Ask the seller for a copy of the registration certificate, even if they choose to de-register it before they give you the car. you will also need some sort of receipt from the seller that shows their name, address, vehicle details, price, and your details as the buyer, and signed by the seller. Then you will just need to orgainise whatever Vic roads requires for registration (RWC, ect). By far the best method is to ring Vic roads, tell them you are buying a car from NSW and ask them what is required to transfer it into vic registration in your name.

The fuel filter is intergrated into the fuel pump, inside the tank, I believe it can be replaced but it isn't an easy job, or a safe job for that matter. I don't know any part numbers.

I think I would steer clear, as Iain said, you are placing stresses to parts of the engine and body that were not designed for it. Especially with the version that bolts on the plenum. I can't image it is good to put extra stress and flexing on an aluminium plenum which was really only designed to direct airflow. Engine movement is fairly minimal with good mounts anyway, if you are getting excessive movement then it is probably best to fix the mounts rather than add a damper.

Based on the factors mentioned, I think the KM on mine were genuine, or at least close to genuine. it showed 76,000km when I bought it, and only minimal sings of wear on the drivers seat, carpets, pedals, gear shifter (6MT), and only minimal lip on the brake rotors. The drive belts were fairly shagged so I am guessing they were original. It does have a coupe of squeaks, but nothing like what you expect from a car with 100,000+Km. Similar amount of wear as my wife's car which as 61,000km on it. If it had been wound back, it must have been 'babied' most of it's life.

Might be a sedan.. which would make the price more appropriate..?

I think NSW, along with most states, don't let P plate drivers drive cars with over 200kw. http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/licensing/downloads/p1p2_conditions_dl1.html

^^ umm. that says the same thing I stated, except he is talking about changing the size of the master cylinder and not the slave cylinder. Larger Master cylinder (or smaller slave) = more slave rod travel but more pedal effort. Smaller Master cylinder (or larger slave) = less slave travel and less pedal effort..

Yep, totally agree with everything you said above except the point about a smaller slave not incresing pedal effort. As most of the effort required is to overcome the clutch pressure plate spring/fingers, if you reduce the pedal travel required to fully disengage the clutch pressure plate by making the slave cylinder smaller, then naturally the pedal pressure will need to increse, as you are trying to do the same amount of work over a smaller distance. So by moving the fulcrum point of the clutch pedal itself, you have reduced the amount the slave cylinder moves for a full pedal deflection, basically the same thing as incresing the slave cylinder size, or decresing the master cylinder size, which would also result in less slave cylinder travel for full pedal deflection. Albeit with less hassle. Maybe the point of misunderstanding is the pedal effort is caused by the clutch plate deflection, not by the master/slave cylinder or pedal movement, if you disconnect the slave cylinder from the transmission, the clutch pedal will be very easy to move.

?? what part outlines what you said? what I said contridicts what you said? more movement and less effort vs more movement and more effort with a smaller slave

hmm. I tend to disagree, although it is possible if you make the slave cylinder too large, the clutch leaver won't move far enough to disengage the clutch. But a larger slave will make for less pedal effort as the same pedal movement will cause less slave piston movement, and since most of the pedal effort is generated by the clutch plate spring, less pressure will be needed on the clutch pedal. This is basically what you have done with your mod, caused less slave piston movement (and master cylinder) with the same pedal movement, reducing pedal effort and incresing the engagement window, but you also need to ensure the pedal rod is correctly adjusted or you could risk not disangaging the clutch fully. Making the slave cylinder smaller will mean the slave piston will move more with the same pedal movement, this will make the clutch engagement window even narrower, and increse overall pedal effort.