sonicii

Agree mostly with Nightcrawler, except maybe the advertised price.. you might not sell it for the asking price, but I don't think it is overly excessive for an advertised price, maybe knock it down to $16990, and settle somewhere around $15-16K? In my opinion, I think you need to look at your target customers and what they want. Buyers of a 4dr auto probably aren't likely to be young single males, more likely to be a couple, possibly with a child or 2, to attract those people, you will need to remove the 'racer boy' item. Grill, wheels, exhaust, maybe even the K&N filter and sticker. Any younger buyers that may be interested, aren't going to be put off by the lack of mods. In fact buying a car that has been modded to someone else's taste/style isn't likely to get you any extra $$ anyway. If you still have the factory items, put them back on, you might be able to make a few extra $$ selling the aftermarket items separately. Definitely agree with nightcrawler in regard to advertising it, put it out in very visible locations. Those looking for a 4dr auto probably aren't thinking 'V35', so you need to get it in their face.

Might help if you mention what these 'traction control issues' are? I'm not aware of any common issues with the TC on either the 350z or the V35?

black, yes. White? Not so much, it might be easier to sell than something like silver, but probably won't demand a higher price..

fair enough, we sold my wife's corolla on car sales for the asking price in 1 week, because we put a reasonable price for it, but I guess if you are in no rush you can price it high and hope for the best. But if you price it too high you will turn off the genuine buyers who would feel like they are 'low balling' when offering a reasonable price. that's how I felt when buying my V35 anyway, I wasn't about to offer $5k below an asking price, even if I thought it was $5k overpriced. the biggest problem with V35s on carsales is most sellers have no idea how much they are worth. There is even a 2005 6sp coupe on there for over $35k!! Who would be willing to offer him $10k below his asking price?

It sucks, but I have to agree, for $25-26k, you could probably get a 6sp premium with sub 50,000km on it. Not a fan of the debadged look either, but that is just personal taste.

$260 a month!!!?? 3 months worth more than covers my insurance for a year! I guess that's what happens when a P plater owns an import? I didn't think Petrol would be that bad on a 300gt? My 350gt is quite reasonable at 11-12 L/100km

^^ Good point, why is it necessary to sell because you are having a baby?. Unless it is your 4th child, there should be no issue fitting a baby seat in a V35 sedan.

As a comparison, I paid $19k for my Silver (black interior)2005 350GT 6sp manual sedan with 72,000km about 3 months ago, interior is very neat and the exterior is almost perfect. Black is a popular colour, so that is a plus for you, but a 300GT auto will knock off a few thousand at least, and unless it is a late 2004, it will be a Series1, which will also reduce the value. Also be aware the 19in rims and exhaust system may reduce your customer base to younger buyers, who generally don't want to spend top $. I agree with Nightcrawler, a majority of the population don't even know these cars exist, so exposure is likely the key to a quick sale at a decent price.

I was thinking of taking it to Nissan, but I am guessing they will charge for it. They charge to program a new key and that is about the same amount of work. Now that I have the idle correct, there isn't anything else I am worried about, so I will just wait until the Blazt cable arrives and check for codes then.

When I bought my V35, I searched for ages for a real defination of a 'Premium'. In the end, I found the most common description of the features that came in the 'premium' model was Bose audio, steering wheel control, dual zone climate control and in the coupe only - Leather seats. However, this was for the S2, the S1 premiums models may have additional options. The biggest confusion was all items, except Bose audio, could be optioned to a non-premium model, so there are a lot of non-premiums around with dual zone climate control and/or steering wheel control, that are advertsied as 'premium' models when they aren't. I am fairly sure the Navi unit only came on models with the Navi pack. However, I don't think there is a 'sports pack' option on the V35, This was something that was offered by infiniti on the G35. I believe the Brembos and 18in wheels were standard on the S1 manuals.

Found Conceptzperformance sells the Blazt OBD2 cables, just ordered one today, so that should allow me to read any codes and clear them if necessary. Will be useful for our J31 Maxima too. I finally got the idle adjustement procedure to run, I thought it had run earlier, but after allowing the car to cool down and starting it again, the idle was high again. Apparently running this procedure manually is quite difficult even with a working MIL, timing is critical, I guess I just fluked it today.

Not trying to put a damer on your question, but I am not sure if there is anyone else on here with a V36 250GT. There are a few wtih V35 250GTs, but they run the VQ25DD engine. You have the VQ25HR, so performance items might not be interchangable. The US forums may be your best bet for further info, there are probably a few 2.5L G37 owners on there, especially as you have mentioned the items above.

an extra 20-30 RWHP is over 10% increse for this engine, I doubt you will pull it off with intake and exhaust alone.

I'm confused, if you want more performance, why did you buy the 250GT? The 350 or 370GT would have been a better option. Sorry, not sure what options are available to you.

thanks, I guess without a working MIL, I am still out of luck.

Well, I dismantled the speedo cluster as far as I could this afternoon. The LED is surface mounted on the PCB, and to get to it you need to remove the gauge needles. I wasn't brave enough to do that, so I just put it all back together. Have found other other weird thing after cleaning the throttle body over the weekend, when starting the car from cold, it will idle high, even after fully warming up (idles at around 1k rpm), and the throttle is very sensitive, after the engine warms up, if you shut it down, wait about 10 sec and start it again, it idles normally at around 700rpm and the throttle response is normal. I have run through the accel pedal closed position setup, throttle closed position setup and idle air flow set procedure, but I am still getting the same thing from a cold start. The up side is the car is much easier to accelerate from a standing start (when idling normal) than it was before the clean, it used to be a fine line between stalling or reving too much when launching in 1st, now it is much easier. Tried to order an Blazt II OBD cable today, but it seems their webpage is down. Is there any way to check the ECU codes without a code reader?

I have yet to take it apart and check, but since it uses an LED, the chances it is 'blown' are fairly small. I am hoping it is a bad connector or possibly a faulty LED.

Thanks, I'm in Townsville, so a bit too far to call in and borrow a spare.. thanks for the offer though! according to the FSM, the MIL LED is controlled by the 'unified meter control unit' built into the speedo cluster which communicates with the ECU via the CAN system.

I didn't even notice this light wasn't working until I tried to do an idle speed adjustment this morning (after cleaning the TB over the weekend). According to the G35 user manual the 'service engine soon' light should come on for a few seconds when you turn on the ignition. mine doesn't... Can anyone else confirm this should happen? I ran through the idle adjustment procedure blindly and it seemed to work, so I am guessing it is just the light that isn't working.. possibly been disconnected for some strange reason. Will have to investigate when I get the time. Car runs great otherwise, so I hope it hasn't been disconnected by a previous owner to hide a fault. On checking the G35 FSM, it is an LED, so it can't be a 'blown bulb', and LED failures are fairly rare.

I have just used a buffer and a fine cut paint cleaner (probably similar to swirl remover) when doing it on other people's cars, it lasts years before it starts to go yellow again, and you could probably just wax it when you wax the car to help protect from UV. The fine cut cleaner works well on tail lights too. They don't normally go yellow, but they do lose their gloss finish after a while

I haven't been able to confirm this, but I have heard that there are 2 stages of 'vdc off', if you just press and release the button it turns off VDC up to 60km/h, to disable it completly you need to hold down the 'vdc off' button for a certain period (something like 6 sec). Maybe someone else can chime in to confirm? I doubt it will turn ABS off though.. I don't beleve there is any option to turn off ABS other than pulling the fuse. But I don't know if this will have any knock on effects (CEL/Limp mode).

This is incorrect. Traction control and VDC are 2 separate things. Traction control can only cut the engine power to maintain traction of the rear wheels when under heavy acceleration, it is only there to prevent wheel spin. I believe this feature is standard on all V35 skylines. Some models also have VDC (indicated by the 'VDC off' button), VDC uses steering wheel angles sensors, wheel speed sensors (same sensors as ABS uses), Yaw sensors and G sensors to determine if the car is tracking a corner correctly as per the steering wheel input. if it is not, it can apply braking to wheels independantly and can adjust engine power to correct the vehicle's track The 'VDC off' button probably turns off TC as well. for those without VDC, I am not sure if there is a way to turn off TC. You should fix the lower control arm bushes regardless, it could possibly be the cause, if it is throwing your wheel alignment out under hard cornering, it may mean you need to turn the wheel harder and that could upset the VDC system. If it doesn't fix the VDC problem, you aren't any worse off, as the bushing needs to be fixed anyway.

Check the above items.. if they are all ok, it could possible need a VDC alignment. This is an electronic procedure done by Nissan's consult, that teaches the VDC system the position of the steering wheel when you are driving straight. if this is out of alignment, the VDC system may think you are actually trying to turn sharper than the car is cornering, and thefore intervenes. This will be more noticable at high speed because less steering input is needed to lose control of the vehicle.

?? I didn't really think anyone in this thread has spread rumours or made un-substantiated claims? From what I can tell, the OP has been the harshest critic of the V35 CVT in this thread, and justifiably so, his failed on him and probably left him out of pocket quite a bit.

I think you are correct, if the manufacturer specs a fluid change at 100,000km it is highly unlikely the transmission will fail because you let to go to 106,000km. there is something else that has caused it.. component failure.. severe abuse by the previous owner.. etc.. The CVT in the maxima has no specific distance between fluid changes, but it is also not a blanket 'life of the vehicle' component either, there is a counter in the TCU that Nissan can read with their consult, once this reaches a certain figure, the fluid needs to be changed. but I have heard of several cases of Maxima owners with over 100,000km on the car and the counter is only about half way to the specified figure. But you can't really use the Maxima CVT as a comparison, the internals are very different to the V35 CVT, and it runs a different fluid.