MrRx7s3

Sorry man didn't notice, how do I edit my post? can't find it anywhere, I only have the option to Report or Share.

Man my r34 was basically stock and failed with stock cat by a mile, ended up getting a euro 5 spec cat installed and just passed... also before you go for the test go for a nice spirited 30-45 minute drive get the cat nice and hot. even the bloke at the testing centre was telling me that this law is pathetic, they want a 20+ year old car to pass emissions as if it were brand new, he also said that if you get a brand new car put a few hundred kms on it and it will fail emissions... I'll shoot my engineer a message see if he knows someone, he was great very helpful and half the price of everyone else.

Mod plate won't help you in NSW. Hardest part of getting engineered in NSW is passing emissions. Engineer that did my r34 stopped doing engineers certs so won't be able to help you there sorry.

Indy at IS Motorsport Rockdale, can't recommend him enough, knows his stuff.

So I'm stumped... all of a sudden my idle hangs at around 1400rpm for about 30 seconds before it drops to it's set idle of 900rpm, cleaned aac valve and tried adjusting etc etc with no luck, any ideas?

Try turning the pads around, should get at least another 150k kms out of them.

Have read the thread, and so many different opinions... also this thread is a few years old, was wondering if anyone has any updates, everything improves over time. There might be some new pads out there, some companies might have changed their "formula" resulting in their pads not being as good as they were 2 years ago? Thanks for your smartarse comment, helped everyone a ton, all hail kiwirs4t and dosepipesututu. In that case might aswell shut down the forum now, I'm quite sure everything has been covered already and people should just "read the threads".

So to dig up an old post, what has everyone found to be the best street/hard driving pad over the past few years? Which produce the least amount of dust? Should make up a poll.

Look up RB Power House on facebook, Mick does wonders, weld porn 100%

What about the NEO?

What the guy above said. That's what I'm running in my r34 GTT, awesome clutch, never going back to plain exedy unless it's modified... Had a exedy cushion button clutch behind 220kw and the thing failed after 2000kms.

Still got it man? how much to ship to Rockdale NSW 2216? thanks.

Nah it's not doing it's first half of the job... been flat out hopefully will get time tomorrow to suss it out.

I did delete the damper hence why I just got this problem, will try bleeding it again tomorrow.

Exactly what's doing my head in about it, especially since there's no damper now it's even simpler, bled the master then bled the slave how hard could it be, where is it even possible to mess up lol.

Hey guys I've got a r34 GTT. Clutch has felt weird for a couple years now, my exedy cushion button wore out I got a NPC 5 puck spring button clutch installed a few months ago. Back to the story the pedal always felt a little strange and spongy, changed the master still the same. I just changed the slave with a brand new one from Nissan and also got the braided line from master to slave from gktech (states for r32/r33 gtr) but fits perfectly fitted it all up bled it all over and over again using nulon super dot. Now when pressing the clutch it feels like the first half travel is doing nothing then the second half does the work. When releasing it just releases to the half again then you feel the clutch spring struggle to bring the rest of it up. It drives fine with no slipping and grabs as soon as you start releasing, I adjusted the rod a little so it doesn't grab right at the bottom. What is going on? Has anyone done the damper delete? Faulty slave? Or do I need the damper? Thanks in advance.

Did it clear the strut tower easily?

What car did you have this on? Doubt it would fit on the standard r34 gtt manifold would it?

Splitfire part number?

Won't cause any harm to your exhaust.... but will cause harm to your pocket if you were to get pulled over.

What you're practically doing is by passing your exhaust and majority of it is coming out of the screamer pipe instead of just waste gate exhaust gasses.

I went 1000 2000 then with the cerium oxide.... try with less water aswell.... also try get the whitest one as it's more pure and works better.

The extremely deep ones yes with sandpaper first.... yeah it takes some time to do though.... but works better than anything else out there.... just be careful not to get the glass too hot you don't want it cracking on you.

Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/322336514522 The whiter the better apparently more pure or something.... also the finer the better the result.

Cerium oxide. Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/322314845630