Hadouken

haha

While looking this up I found a fs thread of a car of this exact description in 2013. It said it was the only one in Aus.

Not a dig. Just the internet

Please explain

I think we should stop theorising and wait for when it goes onto another dyno. Then we know what is what

My profec was easier to adjust than my old hks evc I fail to see how this is problem?

wow, I want one. But I reckon you are going to be hard pressed to get info for that thing. Never ever heard of it. Have you maybe tracked down a service manual for it, that should have a wiring diagram for you

It sounds like a wrx because its not firing all cylinders, buy yourself a reputable set of coil packs.

That is some sweet 4x4 spec

Buy car, then sell car because you need deposit for house

Lol, look at the fuse box and you will see a (+) and a (-) each next to a metal tab. Surely you didnt think that if you wanted to jump start your car that they would make you do it in the boot...

Loan sharks have good deals

Mine doesn't have a problem either. Might take longer on cold as morning. But will start

So high!

I had no idea you could hear when your tyres were out of alignment. And sure. Run some 40 series tyres. Because, you know, that would be way closer to rolling diameter of stock wheels. Even the current profile is good and I bet your speedo isn't off or anything.

Sweet thread revival again

Have you tuned it?! Have you done this?! What do I need to do when changing my Airflow Meter? When you choose another airflow meter to allow a large opening diameter or a higher resolution meter you need to select the unit from the [sETTING], [Airflow] menu and select it from the list. You should do this before you start your engine to prevent really unsafe mixtures and also to prevent stalling/bad idle. Once you have highlighted the correct model you have fitted to the car you can simply press [PREV] on the hand controller and return to normal [MONITOR] and start the car. It should idle OK (well hopefully) however this does not mean it is safe and ready to go. Selecting the correct airflow model simply loads the voltage ramp table into the PowerFC. This tells the PowerFC at what airflow levels the meter is reporing in its voltage range. You should have your AFR's checked with your tuner and a wideband after an airflow meter change to ensure its not too lean or too rich. If you need to drive a fair distance to your tuner or would like to run around for a few days on the new airflow meter without it being retuned/checked then theres a simple procedure you can follow 1. Let engine warm up and idle 2. Give the engine a bit of a rev in neutral and check to see if smoke comes out the exhaust. 3a. If you see *some* black smoke -> Then its running rich (preferred) and it should be OK to drive around on light/low load, although your fuel economy will probably be terrible. 3b. If you see *lots* of black smoke -> Then its running very very rich and you'll need to lean it out a bit. You can do this by going into [sETTING], [iGN/INJ] and then on the right hand side you will see INJ correction. You can then slowly change the ADJ value to a negative value in small increments. After a few adjustments give the engine a rev and there should not be as much black smoke. Repeat until there is a little bit but its not *lots* of black smoke. 3c. If you don't see any black smoke -> Then its running lean or possibly too lean. Do the same procedure (as above) but add more fuel by adding or upping the ADJ value and after a few increments try a free rev. If you get some black smoke then you are starting to richen it up. 4. You should remember this value or write down the correction number used because if you turn the car's power off you must come back to here each time to put the value back in. This is because its only a temporary test mode and it should not be used all the time. You could also give this value to your tuner to give him an idea of how rich its running. for reference http://paulr33.com/powerfc-faq/powerfc-faq.htm#35

Hmmm... I bet you have great response looking at the results, but I think you mentioned a day or so ago that you wanted more response.... That is where I think you are starting to be unrealistic and you are wanting something that this car/setup cannot give you. This is why I said you should get a v8.

He says he has I jetro. How often does it happen? Try the solder trick. I presume you put it on the dyno after the engine swap?

Pictures

You have 2 answers thus far for you boost tapering off. 1) Turbo is to small for the 3.2L 2) You are running out of spark Im going for 2

Same as 33. Acid battery with vent tube that runs from the battery to the outside of the car.

Lol. I'm sure everyone on here knows where the battery is. It's not like 33's are any different. Besides, any good trickle charger won't cook your battery. And if you are so concerned about then remove it from the car.

And I think the trickle charger would fry before it got to the car if it had to process a dick load of current in a surge.

I do this, Disconnect +Ve side on the battery and leave it. It has been fine for me for up 6 months. When I come back from lengthy times away, I put the car on the trickle over night and that is perfect. With the +ve side disconnected instead of the -ve I don't see how there can be a problem with sending a surge through the car....