Hadouken

thanks mate. Lets see how it goes then ey.

cat back you mean? Or do you need a front pipe as well?

yes

I have never had the car on a track. As for drags and hill driving (mucking around) I have not seen those temps rise that high. This is basically just a precaution prior to going to the track. Wise decision? Or am I being silly?

You guys think for a 2,3 time a year track warrior like myself requires a 19row core? Seems a bit extreme to me, but maybe seeing as its thermo it doesnt matter, just means when things get hot the cooling will be better due to larger surface area? correct? Or should I go for a 10, 13 row.

Are these computers getting smarter?

Still too much of a scaredy to cat to go second hand on a oil cooler. To me it feels like buying a second hand oil filter haha. Thats good to know. Might actually stick to my original. No I have not considered this. If I dont get a kit then I might aswell experiment with a DIY kit. Indeed there has, HEL was their name, braided lines are their game. (couldnt resist) Will have to look at this as well. Are you running one? Thanks for the help so far guys. Much appreciated. Keep em coming

Wow. You've got a very detailed idea of what you want to do. Tip my hat to you sir. Also good luck with the minister of war. (made me lol)

Would rather not put a second hand oil cooler in. Can flush it put to a extent but you never know what's in there.

Hi guys I am finally comfortable taking my car to the track after getting some perishable bits replaced. But before I do so I want to put in a oil cooler. Now I don't want to spend more than $500. That basically eliminates all the jap brands. Are there any recommendations from you guys for a oil cooler with a thermostat that has been put through its pases? I have found the driftworks one, trying to stay clear from eBay specials. Thoughts queries? Link of oil cooler in interested in. http://www.shop.cartel-aus.com/Thermostatic-Basic-Oil-Cooler-Kit-DWEB016.htm Thanks

It can. Do a search, big thread about it.

The priming time would have to be changed to 8sec. Now that can be avoided if I just go to a 044. As I said, I was at Unigroup all of yesterday, and we were testing pumps left right and centre. Tested 3 walbro 400lph outside the tank, and tested a 044. The 400l was fine when submerged but no good when exposed to air. Did I really want a priming cycle of 8sec or maybe even more every time? No. So we rigged up a 044 and did a swap, my 400l for the Bosch. In short, sorry mate don't have the pump.

Are you blowing any smoke? Have you checked all your vac hoses? Does it sound like a suby? Is your car shaking? What mods do you have?

Welcome gibbo. What's the plans for the 33? Or are you keeping it simple? Also wanna throw up some pics? Threads are boring without pics.

Find one in good condition and you will enjoy it. Buy one that is shit and is falling apart ad you will not be happy. Remember they are getting old now. There will always be something that needs replacing or servicing. It's not going to be smooth sailing all the time. Just a little love and you should be sweet.

More than a little disappointing Jez.

So after a long day of testing today, they problem is as follows. The pump has a main inlet where the hose and sock are connected, then there are 2 little holes where the fuel comes out. A priming/flow method for the pump. Once the fuel level gets to below the fuel pump (where the 2 holes are exposed to air) the fuel pump needs 5 or 6 seconds of priming from a constant 12 volts before it starts to flow. In a GTR with a 0.7 sec priming cycle added to fuel rail pressure and the time it takes large injectors to fire = a long time of cranking over. Now this is only a problem in applications where the fuel pump does not sit at the bottom of the tank i.e 33 34 GTR's. 32GTR's have a different fuel pick up set up hence no problem. So seeing as I was the first 33GTR in unigroup to try the 400lph I was the lucky customer to be the guinea pig :S. boo I say. Any way the solution Bosch 044 in tank haha. Maybe nismoid can put this in his "handy threads" sticky to make it known for anyone who wants to run a 400lph Walbro, NOT to do so if the fuel pump is mounted in any other way other than close to the bottom. Cheers The dutch

That's jez blasphemy Do the revs drop the same if you turn the steering wheel? If so, I say afm

Lol n/a skyline chomping HSV. As much as I dislike Holden's I very much would back the HSV over a n/a skyline. This has made my day. Thank you good p player sir.

Name change to Hadouken Thanks

yellow jackets theres a big thread about splitfire vs yellow jackets vs oem

Twin plates arent cheap mate. Just for a 650HP NPC single button clutch with flywheel (my setup) cost me just over 1k.

Great news Rusty. But Im not selling anything other than what is listed. Troll the for sale section. Also HKS EVC 3 and ECU sold to Toshi Items left Clutch $90 Front Pipe $50 K&N pods and elbows $30 Im keeping the hard pipe kit Make some offers Take the clutch and give it to jim berry if you want. Costs you a fraction of the cost and youll have your clutch as a backup while you get one built to spec.

around 2k