TurboMick

What are they going to be made of?

Sounds to me like it's an intermittant bad earth somewhere. I'd check the harness very closely at the plug for the ECU, and as far along as you can access. It could be a simple case of pulling/twisting the wire into the correct position (out of contact with the chassis or something like that) when you change computers, so it seems like the computer's to blame. Just a thought. Goodluck.

Lol what? They're exactly the same... ???

Yeah don't see the problem...

It's actually because at idle the rings aren't sealing very well compared to driving with a bit of load, so fuel can get past and contaminate the oil, and on new engines It will glaze the bores too. Not to mention it takes 5 times longer to get to temp by idling.

Sooooooo....

^^ Haha yeah, with clear tyres too!

100 RON is available here too, but it still wouldn't support 50o plus of timing, even on cruise/light throttle.

Looks sweet mate, hope yours turns out just as good. It's gonna be a mission to get it done, and I'm guessing you can't register it right? Will still be an awesome car to own and will sound that much better than a rotor when the 'gate cracks :-) Looking forward to updates, good luck :-)

Lol :-D Nice car though man, seen one ages ago with a centrifugal supercharger hanging off it, made 380rwkws! Still plenty to mod on those beasts :-)

Hey guys, I'm in the same position as the op and thought I'd join this thread instead of starting a new one. It's an rb25 in a 31 making 300kw @ 18psi. Would a set of 264's be a good choice? This is what I've been leaning towards. It's a daily but mostly just for fun (don't mind losing a bit of response and torque for some good 4000rpm+ gains). Obviously I'd get cam gears and valve springs to suit, what company would you go with? Cheers in advance.

Tailshaft loop and super street licence for 11.999 and quicker too. You'll also need a medical, unlimited licence and vehicle logbook for 10.999 and under. And as stated, parachute required for 140mph+.

An old trick is to put a hobbs switch in the cold side piping that's set for -say- 14psi, that switches the earth on the relay for the second pump. Then it's only running when needed. 044's do add a lot of heat, mine are set the same as above and still warm the fuel a bit. Apparently a single A1000 runs cooler, and much quieter than two 044's, but I haven't personally seen that setup running so can't say for sure.

I haven't read every reply, but do not pull timing as some are saying to do. I'd be logging it again while on the track. It would be best to richten It up slightly (say two or three points) before hand, pull 2psi of boost, and then ADD some timing (maybe 4 degrees, whatever your tuner is happy with).This will definitely reduce exhaust temps, and likely increase transient response and 'feel' too.

Done anything with the cams/cam timing since? Just throwing ideas out there...

Is this the latest scam or something, lol? Car's moving all over the country, now it's not rego'd.... Picture taken from carsales website...... Only 12K..... Weird. Maybe it's just me

Has anyone seen what the dyno readout looks like after 2-3 runs though?<br>Massive heatsoak in the 'heat diffuser', then the PCM shuts down the maximum<div>throttle position to around 30%.....<br>One good run down the track, then an hour and a half waiting for the <br>temps to drop to normal hahaha. </div>