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iruvyouskyrine

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Everything posted by iruvyouskyrine

  1. iruvyouskyrine
    Is this for a RB25 Neo or RB20? I should probably change my Car(s) thingy now to suit haha
  2. iruvyouskyrine
    I'm about to pull the top of my intake manifold off to do injectors. I should be right if i just use a genuine nissan gasket and clean is with a razor blade before i put new gasket on yeah?
  3. iruvyouskyrine
    The thing is he has been email'd, texted, called, PM'd and messaged on Facebook and there has been no reply.....
  4. iruvyouskyrine
    Should mention that everything else works, auto door locks, stereo, dash lights, high beam lights on dash, indicator lights on dash all work. No other lights (cat warning temp/check engine, handbrake etc) lights come on at all though :S
  5. iruvyouskyrine
    My brake lights and indicators are both working fine mate. 75 amp fuse only has 1 ohm resistance so i dont think it will be that. But i will try bridging it and see what happens, open to any other ideas!
  6. iruvyouskyrine
    Yeah i understand that wiring problems are especially hard to diagnose over the internet, but i bet a lot of the basic ones could get sorted and it would be a good place to put up a collection of wiring diagrams and conversion loom stuff. Anyway i am thinking about just taking it to an auto-elec but i am hoping its something as simple as a relay not working or something getting a bad earth. Does anyone have any idea what the 4 relays next to the fuse block under the steering wheel do?
  7. iruvyouskyrine
    Hey all, It's cold, and i'm tired, and i'm sick of working on my car atm. RB25DET NEO swapper R32 gts-t chassis. Power windows, and the dash (tacho and fuel sender) is not working. Cannot find any wiring diagrams at all for the power windows, i looked through the R32 GTR complete service manual and i cannot find anything for the life of me. Doing shitloads of googling and it seems a few other people on here and GTROC etc etc are having the same issuse. Power windows don't respond to any inputs and they are not getting any power to them. Does anyone have any idea how they get power? It must be pulled from the same spot as the dash gets power from yeah? I will have a look at some wiring diagrams and try and chase it later. I'm just over it at the moment haha Also why is there not an electrical/wiring subforum?
  8. iruvyouskyrine
    My old RB20 used to drop a cylinder every so often and restarting it did fix it most of the time. And it was caused by a faulty coilpack. Swapped them out with a known good set and it never happened again.
  9. iruvyouskyrine
    Power steering pump is only $50 and easy to replace so i would definitely start with that first.
  10. iruvyouskyrine
    Unbolted it from the rad support, turned it up the correct was and lowered it as far as possible and then tried to bleed the system as per normal. Of course with my luck i ran out of P/S fluid and didnt have anymore to keep filling it. But even just doing that if feels so much easier to turn the wheel and the pump has stopper making the horrible noises that it was making before. So it seems that even though it wasn't the highest point in the system it just didn't want to bleed. Will fully fill/bleed the system and report back if it's fully fixed
  11. iruvyouskyrine
    Hey Ty, Thanks heaps for the wiring tips mate, saved me some time I donbt really need the stock temp or oil pressure gauge though as i have some Defi gauges to go in to keep an eye on everything Water temp, Oil temp, Oil pressure, Boost and Exhaust gas temp should let me keep everything under control. Yeah i think i have finally got it sorted. I had the power steering lines running up to the cooler, and even though it sits lower than the reservoir it still just didnt want to fill with p/s fluid. All i did was undo the bracket that mounted it to the radiator support, turn it upside down and then bleed the system as per normal. Of course i ran out of p/s fluid before i could bleed it completely though, but it definitely sounds and feels heaps better now than it did before. Took the car for it's first drive tonight. Holy feck. The difference between this and the RB20 is night and day. Was running 14psi with the 20 and only 6-7psi with this but it is chalk and cheese. Also purchased an O2 sensor from kudosmotorsport that should be here in the next day or two.
  12. iruvyouskyrine
    God damn it, just purchased a Defi Link controller off ebay for $280 yesterday! Free bump for well priced items
  13. iruvyouskyrine
    Standard clutch line? May have a leak in the hose somewhere?
  14. iruvyouskyrine
    No i have not, and that is what i am guessing the issue might be. The lines run up to the cooler and not down from it, as you can see in my highly accurate MSpaint drawing. Red is rad support, grey is flat bar attaching cooler to support, black is cooler and green is the power steering hoses.
  15. iruvyouskyrine
    According to PaulR33's PDF there isn't really an AFM specific to DE and DET? That may be wrong though, i am not 100% sure. Match up your part number with one from his site. http://www.paulr33.com/diagrams/airflow-meter-wiring.html
  16. iruvyouskyrine
    This thread has everything you need to know about the NPC clutches, and specifically the 10" carbotic. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/398503-which-clutch-s/
  17. iruvyouskyrine
    Hi all, I am running an RB25DET Neo in my R32 and using the R34 power steering pump and reservoir. I have added a power steering cooler into the low pressure return line as can be seen in the pictures but apart from that it is exactly the same as factory. The problem i am having is that i think i have a huige airlock in the system. My power steering pump is making some terrible noises and my mechanic mate said that it is trying to pump air through the system and tats wy it sounds like that. I am inclined to believe him as i had the whole power steering system apart when i took the engine out and it had absolutely no power steering fluid left in it when i put it all back together, so it seems i had perfect conditions to create and airlock in the system. Many tutorials say to jack the car up, pour the P/S fluid in the reservoir and then turn the steering wheel from lock to lock and just let the system bleed itself and work the air out, but this is not working for me at all. Even with the wheels in the air there is resistance when trying to turn the steering wheel. And obviously it is even harder with the wheels on the ground. With the wheels in the air i have turned it lock to lock probably 200 times and it seems to make no difference at all to how it behaves. My mate said that there could be a bleed nipple or something similar on the power steering rack itself that i can use to bleed the system but from doing a little searching nobody has ever made mention of a bleed point on the power steering rack itself. The only theory that i have at the moment is that it is my power steering cooler causing the airlock. I will get some photos tomorrow of how i have it set up, but basically i have it upside down in the front bar (ie, the power steering lines run up to it to connect to the barbs rather than down to it) Any help ideas would be greatly appreciated as i am really a bit stumped at the moment. I don't want to have to drive it round to work the air out as it is making some truly terrible sounds at any revs haha :|
  18. iruvyouskyrine
    Forgot to mention i had a heap of problems with the farking car alarm. Holy shit there is about 50 meters of extra wiring under the dash that made everything a pain in the ass.
  19. iruvyouskyrine
  20. iruvyouskyrine
    Long time no update. Car is now on the road running after making my way through a few issues. Before i started putting my car together i did as much research as possible as to what had to be done so i could keep myself organised and on track. One of the things i found a lot of people did was put the fuel lines around the wrong way on the Neo and i thought to myself i would be sure to do it correctly. Sure enough i spent a whole day standing around scratching my head when it would crank perfectly but just wouldn't fire. Then i remembered the fuel lines. Derp. Then i found that an incorrect plug had been put on the loom for the knock sensors so i had to rewire that and get them working. At this time i also put an amp, headunit and decent speakers in the car. Double din touchscreen Alpine unit, 6" Alpine type-R in the front and 6x9 Alpine type-S in the rear. Got a free 600W fusion amp from my mate so in it went. Sent my ECU off to Matt at NIStune and he got it all sorted for me. When i got it back i found that my consult plug under the dash was no longer wired up so i had to redo that and then change the AFM to suit the Z32 that i am now running on the car. As soon as i did that it started running fine which is exactly what i expected. It was at this point i tidied up all the wiring and vacuum lines running all over the place to keep the engine bay looking nice. Anyway i currently have two issues, my dash and and power steering setup. I am not sure that i am getting any power to my dash at all as no dash light come on and my power windows don't work at all. I have read that the dash and windows are somehow connected and rely on each other to work? I would also like my tacho working haha, be good to have some idea of how many revs i am doing. Does the tacho get its signal straight from the ECU? Also my power steering pump currently has a huge airlock in the system and i am unsure on how to get rid of it. It is making some terrible sounds and one of my mechanic mates said that is definitely the sound of air in the power steering pump. He said that there may be a bleed point on the power steering rack that i should look for but im fairly sure that there isn't and i never saw one when i had the engine out of the car. So any help with this would be appreciated. Also, some random pics.
  21. iruvyouskyrine
    Turbo sold pending payment.
  22. iruvyouskyrine
    Zero. Hasn't even been fitted to an engine. Literally brand new.
  23. iruvyouskyrine
    No worries man, also my first post should read earthing them out not watching.
  24. iruvyouskyrine
    Sorry, should mention this is off an R34, so it has the OP6 rear housing
  25. iruvyouskyrine
    Sorry, the point i'm trying to make is that its 470,000 ohm resistors, so 470 Kohm not 500 ohm
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