iruvyouskyrine

Hey all, I have a brand new Hypergear ATR43SS2 turbo for sale. It's internal waste gate, standard Nissan housings and dump pattern so it will fit up to a standard manifold and dump 100% perfectly. Also comes with adjustable actuator and braided oil line. I purchased this directly from Hypergear only about 2 months ago but have changed the direction of my build. This should be good for about 280kw on a car with standard exhaust manifold running 98 octane. Will make a little more with E85. Paid $1200 so looking for about $950 + buyer pays postage. Turbo is located in Wagga NSW. Call or SMS Josh on 0437133701

Hopefully I am too. Dan and I paid almost 10 weeks ago and neither of us have seen our cages yet. To be fair it sounds like Brad has been having a lot of troubles with some personal issues but its still been a long wait.

GTSboy, Just for reference, you can run without the knock sensors by replacing them with 470k ohm resistors and watching them out, not 500 ohm.

As I asked before. Was the car running fine before these upgrades or have you never had this car running?

Cheap to replace the gasket so mark that one as an easy fix On my 32 when i purchased it, it had only 7 out of the 12 studs holding the exhaust manifold to the block and i never had a leak hahaha

I think he is trying to say that his spark plugs are not getting "wet" as in no fuel is being injected into the cylinders. When he uses start ya bastard or similar to try and start it it works. Has the car been running fine before this, and the problem has just started? Or have you just put a new engine in etc? It sounds a lot like the fuel lines have been hooked up backwards, which is fairly easy to do and a very easy fix

Hmm interesting, is that the same spec SS2 as mine is Stao or has the SS2 changed again since i have had mine done? I will hopefully be getting mine tuned in a month or so.

Okay i managed to get my car to a point where i tried to start it. I had the fuel feed attatched to the barb underneath the regulator in the first picture, and the return coming off the barb at the rear of the fuel rail as seen in the second pic. The car would crank fine but refused to start, it ran on start ya bastard but would die as soon as i stopped spraying. Fuel pump was audibly priming and i was getting spark no worries, just didnt even sound like it was trying to start. So i swapped the fuel lines around (feed to rear of rail, return to the front barb under the regulator) and it now starts and idles fine. Have i got the fuel lines on backwards? I really feel that i have but im not 100% sure, and would it even run if i did have them backwards? Or would the fuel pressure just be as much as the Walbro 400l/ph pump could generate? Any help/feedback would be appreciated. Will get a pic tomorrow night.

No worries then man, cheers for that. How much was it if you don't mind me asking, same price as the R33 one?

Hey mate, just confirming that this is the mount that you used? It says its for R33 but it mounts up fine for 33 box in your R32?

What? Impossible!

Confirmed true, i have one and i cannot tell the difference between normal and NPC.

Nissan Navara D21 Mechanical speedo sender Part No. 32702-02G17 If you write that down and they don't give you the correct part, it was never meant to be.

Yea you are fine to remove the 'box thing' and I just used a GKtech braided clutch line for my car and it works fine and at $40 I'm willing to bet a fair bit cheaper than the Nismo item. If I was you I would fit the new line and then start at the master bleeding it 6-7 times, after that the pedal won't fully return but you will notice a difference to before. I'm not sure what to do next as I think there may be a difference between push and pull clutches and I have not bled a push system before, but somewhere on here I am sure there is a guide on how to do it

The twin intake thing would make it a massive pain in the ass. Although, you sorta deserve it for buying an NA.

The Navara speed sender cost me about $43 brand new from Nissan.

My injector plug is at the front of my plenum and is a grey/white 8 pin connector. I will busy out the multi-meter and test for continuity at the pins for coilpacks and knock sensors and see where that leaves me.

Hi all, Just putting the loom into my RB25 Neo and I can't find where either my coilpack loom or knock sensor loom plug into the main harness. On the main harness there is a single 8 pin plug that sits just behind the intake plenum and both the coilpack loom and the knock sensor loom plug into, meaning I can only have one and not the other Worth noting the car is an R32 and I sent my RB20 and 25 loom sent off to get spliced together so I'm not sure if the guy who did that left a plug out or I'm just going crazy and missing something obvious? I don't have access to any RB25 S2's (ie no igniter) to have a look at otherwise I would. This is the plug with the coilpack loom plugged into it And this is the only other 8 pin plug on the loom except the one for the injectors. I have been using the R34 ECU Pinout in the service manual and I know the knock sensor loom uses pins 60,62 and 63 and the coilpack loom uses 1,2,3,7,8 and 9 As you can see in the first pic the wire colours seem to match with the coilpack loom and not the knock sensor, so I guess it has to be my knock sensor plug that is missing? Any help is useful as I'm very keen to get my car running as its been off the road for 8 months now and it's the last thing stopping me from getting it running! tl;dr Where does the RB25 S2/NEO knock sensor loom plug into on the main wiring harness?

What is the visual difference between sealed and not sealed? The non sealed has those yellow caps and the sealed is just a flat top bar the terminals?

Is it? Just popped up on my Facebook and I was like what the fark is that thing. I just checked on my engine and yeah it is blanked off. Cheers.

Sorry should clarify that I don't know if the engine in the picture is a Neo but mine is and I can't remember it being there.

Hi all, just wondering what this pipe is that runs from the head into the bottom on the block? On my engine I purchased from a wrecked car it wasn't there and I have no idea what it is?

Is this the case for all mechanical LSD's ie KAAZ etc or is it just a cashgrab by Nismo not making the standard half shafts fit?

Thanks for this write up niZm0_Man, easy to understand and very helpful! I think i may also run a 10W-40 or similar in my engine as i am unsure of the life it has had before me, although it came out of an auto R34 so should have been fairly easy. I don't think running it on 5W-40 would have any negative effects, maybe just burning a little oil which isn't too bad if i monitor it.

More pics please