iruvyouskyrine

I think there is a group but for Nismo Suppercoppermix clutches in the group buy section at the moment. Do a quick bit of research on these clutches and you will realise they are just about the best clutch money can buy for a street driven GTR

How big are the VNT actuators stao? Mind putting a pic up of the turbo with actuator?

On my Neo I don't think I have either of the fuel dampers at all? The fuel regulator is there but I cannot see any dampers. Would I still be fine to leave the dampers out, I don't think that aftermarket fuel rails have dampers so I'm thinking I should be fine to use it? For reference I am running a Walbro 400lph running straight off the battery. Also in the second picture you can see the fuel line comes straight off the barb at the rear of the rail and runs down through the plenum runners. Shouldn't this run to the front of the rail and connect up slightly confused about it all. Might have to take the top of the plenum off and have a look, don't really want to though.

Hi, i have to change my tailshaft length as i am putting an RB25 and RB25 gbox in my R32. Just a quick question in regards to the driveshaft, should it butt all the way up to the end of the gearbox as in the first picture or should i leave about 20mm gap between the end of the box and the butt of the tailshaft?

What brands would you suggest? Or doesn't really matter as long as its fully synthetic? This engine won't have been started in about a year either, am I best off buying some helper stuff to put in at first start up then changing the oil once I know it's running fine?

Haha can't beat a sub and subway cookies if your hungry. I might try and catch up this weekend if your free dude, haven't got too much planned.

You can make you own smoke tester for not much from Bunnings mate, check Hanaldo's R34 thread, I think he had how to make one in his thread

Have read the last few pages of the thread but to be honest it's a bit all over the place. Just wanting to know what brand/weight of oil to use in my car. RB25DET Neo with 130xxx k's on it. Will be my daily but I will hopefully be doing a few track days and 6-7 drift days per year and I will be driving it fairly hard. Where I currently am the temperature he's down to about 0 overnight and about 20 during the day. Not really sure what brands are good and what weights for climate/engine age so any info would be handy, thanks!

Aww yeah! Will start pulling the interior out soon then! Yeah mate, I did 90% of the gaskets and a fair few hoses. Purchased my complete gasket kit through Kudos motorsports so I definitely got the right kit. Hate people doing dodgy stuff like that, makes things so frustrating when things are not as advertised >_< I also went to get. Split pin the other day and ended up getting a brand new 270 piece Kinchrome Evolve tool chest and a Makita Cordless 18V hammer drill, impact driver and grinder. A new store just opened and the Kinchrome sales rep was there and he made me an awesome offer I couldn't refuse. Glad to finally make a decent start on my tool collection haha, just need a rolling chest and I'm set

Posting so I don't forget about this, will die load it all when I jump on a computer. I think this is a great idea.

Thats great man, i learn so much stuff from sifting through all the info on here it's ridiculous, can;t wait to get to a point where i can start helping people on here! Also i don't think i have ever seen a GTE, what did they have in them, RB20E's? Also i finally got the engine in at long last. Bolted the flywheel/clutch and then tried to put the gearbox on but had a little trouble with it not wanting to fully go on. I purchased a brand new spigot bearing from Kudos and installed that into the end of the crank after leaving it in the freezer for a few hours and it was a fairly tight fit at first but then it went in snug. I think the input shaft was just having trouble sliding into the spigot, so put a little grease on the end of the input shaft and then put the gearbox on. Didn't have many other dramas really, all went in pretty smoothly and is sitting pretty in the bay at the moment. After taking the HICAS and air conditioning lines out i can't believe how much more room there is in the engine bay, it's ridiculous! Only major mechanical things left to do now is the gearbox x-member, which has to be extended to suit the RB25 gearbox, and the driveshaft. Does anyone have any concrete evidence as to what i have to do for the driveshaft? Many people say that they just use the RB20 driveshaft, cutting off the 20 yoke and replacing it with the 25 yoke and keeping the overall length the same. But others are saying that the total driveshaft length has to be shortened to accomodate for the longer RB25 gearbox? Stupidly i didn't sit the boxes side by side and check the length of them >.< so yeah any solid info would be sweet! More photos to come soon

Here is a screenshot from Nissan FAST of an RB25 NEO fuel rail setup, sorry for the shitty text but i was on a laptop and had to use the trackpad, but hey it works. I suspect i have a problem with my fuel rail as the hose that links the barb on the rear of the rail is not there to link it to the barb in the middle of the rail, will provide pictures tomorrow night.

Good to see there is some hope haha! I have seen a 2-3 s15's a blue R32 GTR and one silver 33 GTR. I think i may have seen you last night in your S14 as well at the train station servo/subway? Will have to catch up one weekend as i'm keen to meet some other people

There is only one way to learn Well that's not true at all but i do suggest at least having a go at doing servicings and stuff like that, its simple and really is a life skill worth having.

What gate type and how do you have yours mounted Sarge?

If you already have a NIStune or aftermarket ECU, and are willing to give up traction and cruise control then you can use an RB25DET Series 2 Throttle body, and it will work fine with your car. The standard 25 Throttle body is exactly the same as the one in the post wolverine made, and will allow you to run that crossover piping no worries

You are totally missing the point and comparing apples to oranges. It has even air distribution because it was DESIGNED, i repeat, DESIGNED to be forward facing, unlike a modified standard plenum that was DESIGNED to be side-feed and has been modified to be forward facing, hence having uneven air distribution. If you cannot understand this, then i truly feel sorry for you. Sorry OP, as i said before your only real options are - Standard plenum - Std plenum with different crossover piping as shown by Wolverine - Plazamama/Greddy forward facing plenum

This is the epitome of retarded. Yes, you are correct, Nissan did design a forward facing plenum and yes it does work. But he is quite obviously talking about the RB25 inlet plenum, as is everybody else because that is what the thread is about. He is talking about the uneven air distribution that is created when you convert a standard RB25 side feed (for lack of a better name) plenum to a forward facing one. He is not talking about a the RB26 plenum which was DESGINED to be forward facing. Using your logic converting the RB26 plenum to side feed would not have any "uneven air distribution" Anyway, to OP, yes you are better off leaving the standard inlet plenum as it is or puchasing a greddy/plazmaman etc one. As has been stated a standard converted plenum often leans out cylinder 6. Using a forward facing plenum you get power loss in the low/midrange.

Put down the keyboard and back away from the computer slowly. This thread delivers. A++ would read again.

Already got a set of Nismo mounts sitting on the engine, spent enough money at kudos motorsports to get them thrown in for free, not sure if that is a good or bad thing!

Hey all, Just wondering if there is anyone on here from Wagga Wagga? I am here for the next few months and wouldn't mind catching up with some people who are into imports and not their dads V6 commodore that they convinced him to buy 19" chrome rims for. It's a long shot but can't hurt to ask haha. /sits back and waits for no replys.

Nah i did't purchase an adaptor, will be using a SR Hub as you said New turbo vs Standard R34 OP6 Turbo Hypergear ATR43SS2 IWG (internal wastegate) Also my new braided oil feed and water lines that i got from Kando, only realising now that i don't like the banjo bolts as they are still somewhat difficult work with. Would have much preferred fittings that screw straight into the block, and 90 degree ends to connect to the turbo. Everything looks filthy in this photo but it's really not that bad, the camera flash just makes it look shite. Old engine mounts........yep. Doing an awesome job. New clutch fork and support assembly (as i am returning to pull type clutch), proved impossible to source locally so just got it from Amayama.com and got it for less than half of what Nissan Australia wanted... And a nice beverage after a long day of spinning spanners!

Been flat out studying these last few weeks and haven't had much time with the car unfortunately, but i have pretty much all the parts i need now to put it all back together, only major things left are to buy fluids, get the 25 yoke put on the 20 tailshaft and have my gearbox cross-member extended to accommodate the bigger R34 box. I have heard rumors that there is a nissan Gbox X-member that will fit the 25 box to the 32 without the needing to extend it, if anyone has any info on it let me know, i can confirm that neither the R32 rb20 or an R34 rb25 one works, perhaps a 33 one will? Also i got my wiring done by Simon-S14 on these forums, great to deal with and knows his shit! Took a while to get done but he was drifting at ADGP so he had a good reason haha, also i told him i wasn't in a huge rush. Will have some more info and progress pics at the end of this weekend with any luck!

Might be a stupid question, but does it still feel like it is making boost, or are you just saying it makes none because the gauge says so? If it still feels like its making boost it could be as simple as the boost vacuum line has come off.