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iruvyouskyrine

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Everything posted by iruvyouskyrine

  1. fk i wish there was still pics. What was it that he put in place of the turbo? Everyone was laughing at it but noone gave a a description of what it was.
  2. yeahhhhhhh. good luck.
  3. Don't believe in the big fella but cheers anyway
  4. yariksteel.ru/manual/
  5. @ActionDan because relevant Also good to see some life coming back into this build, any pics of the shroud for your radiator? Have an RB20 in my S15 and i assume it will struggle to keep cool. I was running twin push fans but even with good fans the push is only about 50% as good as a pull setup.
  6. Bypass FPCM using a relay and direct power feed, and put a new fuel pump of your choice (walbro 460 my recommendation) and go from there.
  7. I did what he said ^ RB20, RB26 ITB, twinscroll manifold and turbo. Still not worth it. But i did just purchase and RB20DET Neo so lets see what VCT and a solid head can do ☺️
  8. Very very minor wiring change needs to be done to run RB25 S2 'smart' coils. Will work with any standard or aftermarket ECU. Personally I much prefer splitfires over Yaris, but R35 coils are a clear winner, but twice the price and unnecessary if you just want a milt street car.
  9. Good TE37 reps is an oxymoron
  10. It's almost always shitty coils and shitty loom as gtsboy said. If I was you I would jam in RB25 S2 splitfires and delete the igniter and enjoy much more reliability.
  11. Geoff has said in here before that there is no difference between iron/alloy housings except weight and alloy housings require water cooling whereas that is optional (but recommended) on iron housing.
  12. What do you need the 150A for that the 140A couldn't handle?
  13. Also when doing the front main seal about 2 years ago, crank thrust would be about 5+mm ? so i'm thinking the gears have taken a fair hammering.
  14. Slightly off topic but maybe relevant. My RB30 does this also, on a cold start its substantially worse. engine ticks loudly for ~10-12 seconds until oil pressure builds and then goes nice a quiet. I don't have an oil pressure gauge in my car however. RB30E with 320,000km on it when i got it, now at 350,000km @ 380kw Completely standard untouched original nissan RB30E oil pump with shim in relief valve to bump up pressure. Not running any form of oil cooling either.
  15. What you should have done is put the old timing belt back on and kept winding the engine over via the crank bolt until all the timing marks lined up, then slipped old belt off and put new one on. (my preffered way that way you know 100% there will be no valves getting mashed) Or do what ben said. And i agree a noise that loud is not something that just appears without a decent mechanical fault. Remove head and inspect.
  16. Are they just AN to pushlok adapter's on the heater hose?
  17. Z32 AFM or ECU?
  18. The BMW S54 actuator is known for being kind of shit. Most people revert back to a cable throttle. Was hoping someone out there had found something similar but better. And yes fabricator could do it no sweat but if someone has designed a mount already it would be easy to just throw that in. It was Galvsport in WA and there is zero info out there on it.
  19. Hey all, Anyone here running DBW on an RB26 ITB setup? Going to an ECU that supports this and would love to have it setup and running. The bosch units work excellently however they don't seem to do a 'lever' type unit, only a standard throttle blade type. I know BMW S54 uses a DBW motor with ITB's however haven't seen one personally and would be possible but probably a lot of dicking around. So if i can avoid that and there is any kit or even info on adapting it to suit RB26 that would be great. Cheers
  20. That was after i put a 4.33 diff in it also. That helped heeeeeaps.
  21. No graph but felt somewhat responsive on the street with 9 month old 98 octane in the tank. Drove it for one day and truck crashed into me and wrote the car off. Probably no new updates for a while.
  22. The coilpack harness might be new but i bet the main engine loom is not. I would start looking where is passes the exhaust, where it passes through the firewall and around the ECU header plug. Youtube how to continuity test with a multimeter, its an excellent skill to have and difficulty level is 2/10.
  23. Wait i f**ked up. I thought you were talking about ABS lol. Yes delete the TCS 1000%
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