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iruvyouskyrine

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Everything posted by iruvyouskyrine

  1. iruvyouskyrine
    Is this really SAU? Someone doing research and checking over the health of their car before going straight to ebay and buying a bigger turbo for it? Not only that but doing easy and vital mods first such as fuel pump and relay? What a time to be alive.
  2. iruvyouskyrine
    Anyone have one of these kits for sale or have the CAD files that were in a dropbox link posted a couple of times (the link no longer works unfortunately) I didn't know anything about crank trigger setups at the time and now looking back this was an excellent product at a great price point and kicking myself for not jumping on it when murray was still selling the kits. Thanks!
  3. iruvyouskyrine
    Do yourself a favour and don't use sparesbox. I waited 10 months for mine to arrive and it was always coming 'next week'. Even getting my money back was a pain.
  4. iruvyouskyrine
    What trigger kit is that?
  5. iruvyouskyrine
    Sorry i meant to say the bottom not the front
  6. iruvyouskyrine
    Yes but only the front
  7. iruvyouskyrine
    Thanks for the excellent in depth response. I understand that you have to match the frequency response of the sensor to the tooth frequency/RPM of the crank to ensure everything is operating within its correct parameters, but my question is still what would you consider the minimum teeth on a crank trigger wheel to give effective triggering on an RB? What exactly is the crank trigger kit you are using?
  8. iruvyouskyrine
    I know in R32 it's the white wire with purple trace however i have never done it with an R33 so can't comment on it directly. However with a multimeter and some googling i think you should be able to figure it out pretty easily. Also the FPCM is just a two stage device, under condition X the fuel pump receives 10V and under Y it gets 12V. Better to run it at full voltage all the time.
  9. iruvyouskyrine
    I can't offer any help, but please keep this thread updated as this sounds very interesting.
  10. iruvyouskyrine
    The good news is you can put the FPCM straight in the bin. Use the ecu fuel pump trigger (usually a pull to ground) to trigger a relay (any 30A relay should be fine) and then run a new appropriately sized wire straight from the battery, through the relay and to the fuel pump. Won't have any more issues.
  11. iruvyouskyrine
    I'm not as smart as most of the people in here commenting but i do have a question, the 'sync position' on the Emtron is that just a measurement how far out of alignment the cam 24+1 'sync/home' signal is with the crank based 'ref/crank'. Is it comparing the 'sync/home' trigger event to the same 'ref/crank' trigger event every time? If so then even though the update speed is nowhere near the same as the crank based pickup it should still give a good indication of how much variation is being induced in the cam driven setup correct? Also what is the accepted 'minimum millisecond pickup time per tooth' for a high revving engine such as an RB? There seems to be such a large spread available especially in OEM form (Evo having 2 crank teeth and LS having 60-2) yet all engines seem to run fine. But in the skyline aftermarket world people will argue anything from 6 - 60 teeth on the crank are required. Looking through your maths @burn4005 it seems that 5deg/tooth @ 8000rpm = 0.000391ms is an absurdly small amount of time it could be considered overkill. I understand that if your hardware (ECU and crank pickup assy) is up to the task the more finite the triggering the better, but i guess my question is what is the minimum amount of teeth required to result in smooth engine operation and effective and reliable ignition timing (not needing individual cylinder knock control like RICE is talking about)
  12. iruvyouskyrine
    In S15's what johnny said is true, ABS ECU calculates VSS and sends it to the engine ECU. Also i believed that ABS simply doesn't work when going to a standalone ECU. I was planning to bin my ABS when i went to Link Extreme however if i can keep the ABS i will.
  13. iruvyouskyrine
    Very difficult to diagnose over the internet, but a new fuel pump can only be a benefit. Clear winner is Walbro 255 which can be had for around ~$130 just make sure you buy from a reputable source online (EFI Hardware etc) Also remove and clean AFM and check the wiring to the AFM isn't burn or missing a ground.
  14. iruvyouskyrine
    1 and 4 (outer wires) need swapping on plastic CAS
  15. iruvyouskyrine
    As I said before it currently has a 6758 on the RB20 and will be running that. But the manifold will bolt straight on to an RB25/26 head and still fit with an 8374/9180 for when I go 30 bottom end.
  16. iruvyouskyrine
    All share the same frame yes, it is actually a 9174 in that pic.
  17. iruvyouskyrine
    fyi R34 AC compressor is half the size of the R32 unit
  18. iruvyouskyrine
    Above is RB20 in S15. Compressor exit isnt an issue, inlet isn't either. Turbo isn't close to the AC lines but the 2x screamer pipes are. I have retained a full AC system (and ABS) easily. Yes it's tight but nothing is too tight.
  19. iruvyouskyrine
    Dion and Shane at Fabtech Global (based in Newcastle, NSW) made the manifold. Hypertune HypEx347 low mount to fit large frame EFR with 2x 40mm Turbosmart compgates. I only have pictures of it in early stages of being made, will try and find some of it completed. It costs an absolute arm and a leg but the quality is absolutely amazing.
  20. iruvyouskyrine
    Finally everything is finished!.............................. Naht. As is tradition with car builds right near the end i have decided to change a whole heap of things for no reason other than i felt like it. Luckily its really only the ECU and the loom that will be changing, all else will remain the same (with the exception of removing the ABS as the Link can't do that) Long story short is that everything was in and running using the NIStune and the Garage 7 IPC. Tuned by Jez on 98 octane running 12psi it made 180kw and then went into the shed for the last 9 months as i had lots of other more important stuff going on in my life. Only running such baby boost as this is a 10.5:1 engine and its absolutely begging for E85 and 3x the boost. To my surprise the car was disgustingly slow. Like honestly beyond belief slow, although this was all just driving around my street unrego'd so never really got up it. But i had forgotten to swap the diff out because it is terribly mismatched to the RB25 gearbox. Diff in it currently is a 3.6 and new diff going in is the more appropriate match for an RB20 being a 4.3 so that should make it feel quite a bit better i would hope. Anyway tonight it will get new diff and rego so i can put some KM on it and then in the next month or two it will get a full rewire, Link Extreme ECU, Plex MicroSDM 100, and as many sensors as i can throw at it. Then off for a full flex tune and hopefully enjoy it over summer!
  21. iruvyouskyrine
    PM replied
  22. iruvyouskyrine
    Are you specifically using the cast HKS low mount? I have a custom low mount manifold made that currently runs an EFR6758 but fits an EFR 8374/9180 with ease in my RB20 S15.
  23. iruvyouskyrine
    Yes still available
  24. iruvyouskyrine
    Commenting to subscribe, any other cool finds?
  25. iruvyouskyrine
    Thanks mate, i am actually looking to move to an extreme. Not interested in a swap? haha
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