iruvyouskyrine

yeah my bone stock s13 engine makes 250kw so i know they are capable. Just new shiny G series and V band would be nice, i just get the feeling that even the 550 is going to be slightly too big for my goals. Any rough idea on spool time compared to GTX2867G1/G2?

Anyone heard anything good bad or otherwise about G25 internal gate stuff? S15 SR20, stock bottom end, Kelford 266/272, springs, retainers etc. Street car only, looking for 220-270kw roughly. Stock 6 speed and cant be f**ked changing the box. I actually really like the 6 speed. I have a GTX2860G2 on my S13 track car and the thing absolutely f**king rips. I love it. No lag and instant power, easy to drive. But on this car i am looking at G25-550 IWG version. Really struggled to find any info about IWG stuff so hoping Geoff may have some first hand experiance. I am no turbo wizard so i will stick to basic questions. Car will be getting long runner low mount V band hypertune manifold. How much lag difference will there be compared to a GTX2867 roughly? I didn't realise that a 550 could relatively easily make 320-350kw on an SR20 which is way more than i want, leading me to think that it will be too laggy for my personal preference. My brain says stay stock manifold and stick another GTX2860 on it as it ticks all the boxes for power goals and responsiveness, my heart says have a look at the new G25 stuff.

Noice, i'm lazy and this is what i wanted to hear haha Will do thnx bby

Fair enough mate, where from and how much was the 350Z pedal? About to convert my S15 to DBW and would love a bolt in solution

The Radium tank hat is amazing quality and price. Fitted one to a 33 GTR and it was stupidly easy.

I love the car and jealous of how much progress you seem to make, takes me 6 months to make a decision let alone get it done smh 😅

Can we get thread back on track please. How are you sydney carnts getting 22c feed in tariff, im in newcastle and did the ring around to every company last year and the very best i was offered was 12c. My solar is about 6 years old now though, are you only getting such a good rate because you got Origin to do a complete solar install? I can't even imagine getting 50+c a kWh lol

I had wondered where you had got to over the last year or two, sucks to see you having dramas mate. I knew you w ere having issues with workshop and had some unhappiness with tuner a couple of years ago but didn't realize it was still continuing! Bump for reply @BakemonoRicer

Yes, RB30 crank is like ~3mm longer than RB25. This caused the tube that the throw out bearing slides on to physically push the centre of the clutch disk into the flywheel. Which basically means that i was never able to disengage the clutch. Trimmed 5mm from the end of the tube and never had an issue again

Lives literally around the corner from me, happy to go check it out for either of you

Well while we are not talking about it.... anyone have any idea if the front power steering pulley is able to be removed from the balancer? Very tight for room on this RB S15 😅

Ill annoy the f**k out of him again then and see if he relents after about 4 years 🤣

Interesting, i thought 'eat your wheaties' was an Aussie thing referring to weetbix.

Yeah and i said that BW don't have any info available on that in any official documentation that i have seen

BW only say that the turbo must be orientated +/- 20deg from horizontal (roll axis not pitch axis) in their documentation. Make no mention of the pitch angle that is allowable

INB4 everyone saying dont waste money on Tomei and get Kelfords

today i learnt the forum changed c|_|nt t flamin mongerel

every video/post i make on my car i get approximately 6342 americans message me asking how i did it. I just stopped replying as its actually overwhelming and they dont like it when i use the words 'flamin mongrel of a thing' to describe it

Are you saying if you treat it early enough you are able to fix the problem without having to cut the strut tower apart? I might throw some pics up here and get an expert opinion. I have absolutely zero skill with any body/metal work

Yeah wow great job on the red one. Did you make replacement strut tower tops from sheetmetal or did you have to find a whole other car to cut them out of? I think i may have to have a look at my R34 tonight lol, didnt realise it was a common spot for them to rust

Should be 550-750 depending on shop and driveshaft spec in my experiance

lmao imagine spending 17k on a box and having to retrofit a gear pos sensor. Why did OS think that not having one was even an option.

No idea about 350Z things but... Keeping your stock Tacho, thats easy. Keeping your stock Speedo, thats easy. Just keep your ABS ECU Keeping your A/C, thats easy, the signal is just an output from the AC control unit that runs through the standard ECU. Not enough information to give meaningful answer. Also. Sell me the engine out of your car when you do the swap

Just ask for a new one when you are in a driveshaft shop asking them to make you a new driveshaft. Nissan dont have them buy any driveshaft place will be able to get them.

I also purchased mine in 2017 so not sure about that. I believe you are running an RB25 though? so our RB20 half of the adapter is different to the RB25 half which is where the issue is in both of our cases. I still maintain its a shit design. A dude i know actually designed and built a single piece adapter that just truly bolts on and works. He is a fitter and turner by trade and was able to knock it up himself. It is a true bolt on affair, no extra gaskets or sealants etc. I have been harassing him for years to sell it or at least make another couple but he said it was very difficult and tie consuming to make and can't really be f**ked making another one. Maybe with enough interest he may relent? His is superior as its one piece, and doesnt require cutting and welding of lower runners or any of that rubbish