iruvyouskyrine

Hey all, I am running an Astra power steering pump in my S15. The engine in the S15 is an RB20DET. For the astra pumpt to run in needs +12v and earth (obviosuly), and then +12v on the sense line to turn it on. Normally you would just run the sense line to switched ignition. But then the PS pump is active when you are trying to start the car. I would like the pump not to run while the starter is cranking so that it has full power to kick the engine over (only running a small battery). Is there a way that i can tap into the alternator wiring and give the power steering sense line +12v when the altenator has taken over the battery and is providing sufficient power? That way the alt is powering the pump not the battery. From what i understand the large lug on the back of the altenator is obviosuly the main +12v supply to charge the battery. There is one plug with 2 pins on the altenator and 1 pin is from the body harness that is feed back in to the altenator voltage regulator circuit so the alt knows how much voltage it is putting out, and the other goes to the dash light for the altenator. With the dash light one side of the light has +12v on it already from the battery to illuminate it when the altenator is not outputting, and the other side runs into one of the pins on the altenator and when it is not running (or while the car is cranking and it might only be putting out a couple of volts instead of the ~14V its supposed to) the potential differance across the bulb is enough to illuminate it. But once the altenator is up and running it is feeling +12v on both sides of the bulb, causing the bulb to extuingish? So i could tap into the bulb wiring from the altenator but the issue is that it will still be feeling the +12V from the battery correct? Is there any way it's possible to do what i am asking? A google search doesnt bring up anything helpful at all. Any help is appreciated, cheers. Josh

you may have purchased a pull type boot for a push type clutch or vice-versa. Post a pic of your clutch slave cylinder and the clutch fork boot and we can help

check for boost leaks and clean IACV then report back

700 push 800 pull

NPC Carbotic single plate is good for 400kw and pretty light too. No noisyness like a twin plate although the nismo twin plates are supposed to be pretty quiet.

For simpleicity reasons, RB26 IACV is a f**king mess and more trouble than it's worth i reckon. Yeah thinking i might just use hose and then an appropriately sized bolt.

Appreciating asset? You obviuosly have no idea how Xteen's treat their NA R34's Just weld it, simple easy and effective. Nowhere near as good as a mechanical LSD but if you want to do skids then it works a treat.

Well he's come in swinging ill give him that...

Has anyone successfuly used silicone blanking caps before or know of something better to use? Deleted the IACV from underneath the RB26 inlet plenum so have some decent size (10mm OD?) air ports that need blanking. Ideally i would have crimped them shut and then run a bead of weld across them to keep them 100% sealed but the manifold is already on now so looking for an easier solution. Thinking basically a silicone blanking cap with a little sealant inside and then either a worm drive hose clamp or a spring hose clamp. Will be running up to 30psi so they will have a fair bit of pressure to be holding back. Thanks for your help

You can just buy the CAS gasket and use that to space it out if not running the front timing cover. Should come with the bushes in there to space it properly.

Brand: SSR Model: Type C Tyres: (Yes/No) Yes 235/45/17 Pair / Set: Set PCD: 5x114.3 Diameter / Width / Offset:17x9+25 Location: Newcastle NSW Willing to Ship: (Yes/No) Price: 1200 Willing to Swap: (Yes/No) Yes (Gramlight 57D) For sale is 4x SSR Type C. Wheels are in decent condition with a few marks (as pictured). SSR stickers are in good condition but the Type C stickers aren't the best as you can see. 2x tyres are brand new and 2x tyres are 30%. Marks on wheels: 2x gutter rash as pictured and 1 mark on the face of a spoke as pictured. Happy to post AUS wide or for pickup in Newcastle

Agreed, that's not so much an issue as how they work.

How many would you like? I have a many as you want

Ben lay I remember the RB25 cam timing marks ended up being about 8deg out

So you want 400kw and to have a heap of head work and supporting mods or you just want 400kw? You can pretty easily easily make almost 400kw with zero headwork (with the possible exception of valve springs) and just basic mods (fuel pump/injectors/FMIC/ECU) using E85

@actiondan can help you.

It sounded shit because SR20 not because screamer pipe

That's my picture and yes the turbo gearbox is about ~20mm shorter than the non turbo box.

Two under front subframe and two under rear subframe

32 GTR is plastic tank, all other models metal tank. Please sort it your wiring to all those pumps and make sure it is capable. 3 Walbros will be a hell of a lot of current (even though 1 is a lift pump)

The general gist of this thread is people say good luck and then get ready to say 'I told you so' in a couple of weeks [emoji23]

I have a completely standard RB30E bottom end with a RB25DET neo head and compression came to around 9.2 CR so forged RB30E pistons would do the job fine.

Oh the irony. Old dinosaur turbo over here.

Almost certain that there was a large valving update within the last 12 months

Perfect, should be easy then.