iruvyouskyrine

140 is low too, unless you are running non standard cams or your timing is wack

I wouldn't worry about getting your car tuned, if compression test is accurate then you are throwing money in the bin, going to need a new engine anyway.

Can you please PM me pics of thermostat and clear timing covers thanks

Jesus christ nice 10 year thread bump, don't hold your breath waiting for benl1981 to reply. RB20 actuator is a straight barb, RB25 actuator barb has a 90deg bend in it. Neo is same as standard RB25

No it won't die. There is a high chance if you never track the car it won't make a lick of difference. But yes best to get it repaired. You are fine to drive it.

Aside from being posted in the wrong section, i think the whole RB25 swap S14 thing is a bit out of reach for you if you are asking questions like this. But if you really want an answer, it is use an R33 subframe and R33 engine mounts.

NPC 10" Carbotic clutch. Amazing feel, not a rock hard pedal and can easily handle the power. Expensive but worth every cent.

Absolute bullshit. I am of the opinion that you really shouldn't have had to pay for any towing at all, but if you had to split the towing 50/50 with him that wouldn't be too bad either. I would ask him face to face why he exects you to be paying for the towing and see what his reasoning is.

I run a Nardi deep corn wheel and love it to bits.

My advice is don't go forward facing plenum. Not really worth the extra hassle. Will your injectors fit? No way of knowing it depends on what fuel rail and manifold you want to run. If i was you i would just leave the intake side alone aside from running plazmaman style cooler piping.

Flat clear, blue ones are okay though

Then just position the drill bit close your eyes and pull the trigger. What you can't see won't scare you

I used to use a broadway mirror in my R32 and it was excellent. I now use a broadway mirror in my R32, S15, Toyota landcruiser and the girlfriends Mazda 2. Honestly don't think i could EVER go back to a car without one. I have the 300mm (IIRC) and it feels like you can see almost double compared to the tiny standard mirrors.

Not sure what Pete does but I hadn't planned on it. You would run a cooler on the return line if you wanted, or just some extra length of line and loop it to increase the length of hose used which will help cooling a little

Is it the one at the back of the block on the intake side or the one behind the Thermostat housing?

No worries, im putting my astra pump in the boot of S15 and running -6 feed and return from the rack. hopefully should work fine

You just running -6 lines to the rack?

post a pic of what you need, i probably have one

Its because Garrett have really not had any drastic changes since the GT series of turbos were released a long time ago (~15 years?) and this is looking promising. If you know nothing about turbos think of it as hopefully now you are able to run a smaller turbo (helping response) and make the same power.

Lith was that the dude in SA with the WRX? He was pushing ~35psi on a EJ25 which i assume would put it in overspeed territory

Pretty impressive power for an engine with no crank, no pistons and no rods.

Thread necro. I have the same situation. I went to clean my lifters and found a bit of a surprise. One set came out of an RB20DET and one set came out of an RB20DE. As you can see they are 2 completely different lifters. The internal depth on one is very different to the other (10mm compared to 7mm) and they are just very different overall. Like stewy said, Nissan FAST says that both engines should use the same lifters, which have P/N# 13231-79S00 Has anyone else ever come across this before? Seems kind of weird and the OP never replaied so not sure what ever happened. Pics attatched below, lifter on right is RB20DET and left is RB20DE

do a continuity test from pins 1,2,3,7,8 and 9 on your ECU to the coilpack harness. Match the colours at the ECU to the colours at the coilpack harness and you should be getting 1-2 ohms of resistance.

Okay so went to clean my lifters and found a bit of a surprise. One set came out of an RB20DET and one set came out of an RB20DE. As you can see they are 2 completely different lifters. The internal depth on one is very different to the other (10mm compared to 7mm) and they are just very different overall. Nissan FAST says that both engines should use the same lifters, which have P/N# 13231-79S00 The one on the left is the DET, and on the right is the DE. I was going to dissassemble the DE lifter and clean it but it is impossible to get the lifter body removed, hitting the shit out of it doesn't work and neither does vice grips. You are easily able to push the lifter body further inside the lifter using just finger pressure but getting it out is a different story. Any advice appreciated

Bump, How did you get on @Bradbrooo