iruvyouskyrine

What did you end up with greg, 8374?

Thanks for the response Geoff. I will definately be going with the T4 Twinscroll .80 A/R IWG housing. Just how similar will the spool be? Back on page 13 disco asked what would be a better suit (7163/6064) for an RB25DET and this is what you had to say. It's still hard to say. Ive got some tuners who swear by the 7064. Yet there are others who love the 7163. I think the decision ultimately depends on the boost level and max rpm for a given EMAP level. No question the 7163 will come into boost sooner, but it does have considerably higher backpressure - and the standard 7163 inlet is a 2.5" (non ported shroud) which can be prone to surge in applications with lower VE. For example YB cosworth works better on 7064 than 7163 and I suspect RB20 would be similar Did you mean to say RB25? Or will the 7163 really fall over up top on an RB20?

Obviously if i can have my cake and eat it too (super responsive and make high 200 kw's power) then that is the preffered option haha. It's just im skeptical that a 550hp rated turbo (i know turbo HP ratings don't really mean that much) could be strapped on the side of an RB20 and still retain some somewheat decent response. I have only ever been in 1 EFR powered car and it wasn't as magical as i thought it was going to be. I know how peope (especially geoff from fullrace) say that these things are on another level with how quick they spin up and no data show's it as much as you feel it in car, but still, a 550capable unit on a 20 haha Basically it has boiled down to the 6758 or 7163 and will probably just get whatever i can pick up cheaper. The ones on the NRR forums are ex indycar turbos and come with specific indycar housings. Will contact the seller and see if i can buy one without the rear housing. The only difference seems to be the compressor cover doesn't have the integrated BOV and BSCV which isn't a huge deal for me. Hey tim long time no talk, how is your car doing? I would love for you to go the 6258 and i will go 6758 and we can compare I am not a fan of modding a rear housing to work, i am going to get my manifold custom made exactly how i want it anyway so i will just go with the T4 TS hypertune cast stainless collector and get it modded to remove the EWG provisions. I do have the burning desire. I really want to have the ultimate RB20 combination and i think twinscroll will be a decent factor in deciding this. I agree that the 7163 would be the better match for the RB20 with relation to top end power, however the penalty down low is what i am interested in. It's a shame there is no previous results to base my judgements off. @Lithium suggested that he thinks a 7163 in twinscroll config would spool roughly the same as the standard RB25 turbo that everyone is used to. If that is true (then keeping in mind that spool time + the EFR ability of coming back onto boost almost instantly) i will absolutely go with the 7163. It's just that i haven't been able to find any RB20 results with EFR's that can give some evidence to these claims (not that i am saying lith is wrong, i would absolutely LOVE for him to be forrect). Not going with TD05/6boost etc. I already have an R32 with a RB25/30 and ATR43SS2 on 6boost and external gate making 370kw, so my cubic inch craving is satisfied. My goal is to try and have a weapon of an RB20. Like i said before lith, i think it has boiled down to 6758 and 7163, whichever one i can get a better deal on will probably be what i end up with. Are you able to elaborate more on the changes mate? I have a mate with a TD05-18G (not sure if it a H model or not) on a S14 SR20 with poncams and retaining VCT and he loves it. Makes 250ish KW on 98 octane and has a hugely useable power band (according to him, i have never been in or drive the car). So if a 7163 really is "that much better" it is definately going to be a good thing.

Can anyone offer more info on the 'mixed flow' turbine and it's advantages?

On my phone so can't reply properly to dale/Lith. VFR do you have any more info on the setup? Dyno sheets etc. Also what is NRR?

Manifold was originally going to be a complete copy of the gibson HR31 manifold with T3 TS. However due to the lack of Borgwarner having T3 i will probably be using Hypertune HypEX stainless cast T4 twinscroll collector and the manifold will be cutsom made low mount using all Hypertune HypEX bends. Basically a Hypertune manifold but no EWG provisions. Standard RB20 cams and will be running 98 octane and E85 (full flex fuel setup). Lith your comments basically back up my gut feeling, which makes me very happy. I think the 6758 will be the pick for me I presume the T4 TS .80 A/R housing is a good match for it as it's only 1 of 2 housings Borgwarner offer for the 6758. I know low down power is never going to be great no matter the situation but i think 6758 should be a good all round comprimise. Now to find the best place to buy one as cheap as possible haha. Any suggestions?

First off, I will not be using a standard RB manifold. It's just not happening. In the old EFR thread there was this post And Jeff's response to that I agree with you Greg, i think realistically a 6258 is my best choice for exactly what i want. BUT my gut feeling is as you said, a 6758 would still be responsive enough but have more power capacity and stop the overspinning of the turbine wheel. The twinscroll manifold and housing should help with spool as well. Of course all these assumptions are just from my gut feelings and reading forums/results on the web. I don't really know enough about turbo flow rates etc to make calculated guesses or use BW Matchbot. Hopefully that's where people like @Lithium can help me out

Okay time to chime in here. Thoughts on a 6758 .80 A/R T4 twinscroll on an RB20 with T4 twinscroll manifold? I was thinking 6758 but in the "old EFR thread" people kept banging on about the 7163 being the magic unicorn of the B1 frame size. I'm looking to make a responsive 220-230ish kw on 98 octane and then feed it E85 and make as much power as possible. I think a 6758 is the best choice unless someone can give me more of an idea about why the 7163 is supposed to be so good? Thanks

Right so have done some more investigation and cost comparison into the EFR thing. It's starting to look really good besides the lack of BW using T3 flanges. So my question is keeping in mind this is an RB20, would a T4 flange be too large? It seems very unconventianal to use such a large flange on such a little engine but hey if it's going to work then i am happy to run it. If i was going to use an EFR i would most likely be going with a 6758 and a .80 A/R T4 winscroll IWG housing. I know @Kinkstaah has been saying 6758 all along so keen to hear his thoughts on it. With the EFR's is the 6758 the best choice for a punchy 220-230kw on 98 octane or should i be considering the 6258? Keeping in mind that that power is my lower goal, the more power it makes on E85 the better!

Haha f**k how did you manage that? I understand on RB30 ones which have cooked old crusty oil in the keyway preventing the 10mm hex key getting in there.

What hex bolt were you doing? Off the top of my head its only VCT cam gear and head bolts that are hex

Switched with a known working ECU and still a no go. Did some more investiagatin (using R33 manuals which were a little more clear) and it had pretty much the same troubleshooting info. It did say to check the ignition system (pins 10 and 20) and the injector (pin 107,108 and 116) earth points. The injectors i figured i didn't need those pins earthed as the actual injector signal pins pull to earth to activate the injector. And the ignition system i wasn't going to earth through the ECU as i am using yaris coils and was going to delete the ignitor. Turns out that they all need to be earthed for the ECU to be fully working. As soon as i connected 10,20,107,108 and 116 it turned on fine and fuel sprayed everywhere in the engine bay as i have the fuel line disconnected and the pump started priming haha. So for future reference, don't just disregard the nissan manuals (even if they don't make complete sense sometimes)

Cut hose and replace with new one because its most likely as old as the car iteslf and it is about $5 worth of hose

R33/34 RB25DET gearbox Hey all, Looking to buy a good condtition R33/34 RB25DET Gearbox. Shifter/slave etc not essential but would be nice. It's for a mate who lives in remote QLD so buyer must be willing to ship. Thanks.

Also one of the troubleshooting steps from the R32 service manual. As you can see pin 16 should have voltage with ignition off but should be earthed when ignition on.

ECU pinout uploaded for reference

RB20 ECU power info needed Hey all, Went to test my ECU was working for my RB20 into S15 swap today and was unable to get consult working. RX,TX,CLK all have continuity and are correctly pinned in the consult plug. Consult also has 12v and earth. A little probing revelaed that the ECCS relay is not triggering, i have 12v on both sides of the coil with the ignition off (which is correct as per the nissan r32 servcice manual). I believe the ECU is supposed to switch and earth on pin 16 (ECCS Relay) when it turns on. So lets check if the ECU is turning on. Pins 50 and 60 (ECU earth) both have a good earth. Pins 49 and 59 (ECU pwr supply) both have 12v with ignition on Pin 58 (Battery pwr supply) has 12v battery constant Pin 45 (Ignition switch) has 12v when ignition is switched on If all my power and earths are good then the ECU should be turning on? But yet i can't connect via consult and it's not triggering an earth on pin 16 (ECCS Relay) and triggering the relay itself. As my ECU has a NIStune and NIStune flex fuel board fitted so the little LED's have been removed, so unable to tell that way. Will be checking it all again tomorrow but just after any ideas on why it seems the ECU is not turning itself on. Thanks

Leave the tailshaft in, or find an old tailshaft and cut the yoke off like i did

Also, i had no idea that RB20/25 turbos were ball bearing. They really are staggeringly bad in that case, i just assumed they would have been journal bearings with heavy cast wheels. @Kinkstaah Yes performance wise the EFR would most likely shit it in, but they are just so expensive for something thats going on a $20 engine. Saying that though, i will get some more prices on everything but this looks like its starting to add up pretty quickly. What EFR would you reccomend to make a punchy 220kw on 98 octane that has a T3 flange?

Okay so RE the T3 Twinscroll rear housing; Did a lot of googling and it seems that ATP Turbo are the ones who actually make this housing. I have sent them an email and are awaiting their response. I also emailed GCG and asked them if Garrett ever made such a housing and this is what they had to say. and a follow up email when i asked for more info The photo that was attatched was the exact same photos that are on the ATP Turbo website (link to it here) Next up are some pics that i found online (which besides the ATP website is the only pictures that i could find anywhere online). The are from a german eBay add where a dude is selling what is advertised as "Garrett Gt28 Exhaust casing T3 Twin Scroll Garrett GTX28 V-Band" (link to auction) I have sent the seller an email asking if he can provide me with more information about where he purchased it from. But it looks very similar to the ATP one and you can see it has been sleeved like the GCG rep suggested. @R_34 can you provide any more pics/details on the housing that was on the car from that dyno graph? Thanks

I agree that 25/neo is substantially better in every single way and there is no good reason to waste money on an RB20. I'm actually surprised it wasn't the first thing bought up after my original post Saying that, i'm sticking with the RB20. 100%. What are your thoughts on a GTX2860/63 with .83 A/R twinscroll housing on a gibson motorsport twinscroll manifold with external gate and E85?

Didn't know that they changed back to a standard rotation on the Evo 10. Still seems like it will be difficult finding a T3 TS housing for them. My mates have been using TD05-18G and TD06SL-20G on SR20's making decent power for a while now, another mate has a GTX3076 on an RB25 same story. Basically identical to the Kando turbos (the owner of Mamba is the former owner/founder of Kando). I think i'm almost at the point (unless something comes out of left field) where i just have to make my mind up between the GTX28060 and the 63 and see what the results are to be honest. R_34 has suggested a very rough 300-400 rpm difference between the 60/63 wheels, would you consider this roughly correct? Any idea what the power difference would be between the two as well?

Any actual results for this testing? Everyone seems to rave about yaris could but can't find any solid info on the net

Not looking for a magic solution, just looking for the best possible turbo for my application. Lith I understand what you are saying and this is exactly what I want. Suggestions of things to look into that I would otherwise not consider. I understand your hesitation with the brand but I have confidence in them, my mates have used them with no issues for a while now. Like I said earlier I really don't know the finer details of turbos like the blade count and angle etc affects the performance. I thought comparing the sizes of the wheels would give me at least a basic indication of roughly what to expect from each turbo. Disco why would you reccomend the. 64 open T3 over a. 83 Twinscroll for the rear housing? I though the divided larger housing would be a best of both world type situation? Thanks for both your inputs

Why would it be silly to buy both things from the US? If they are as cheap as people say they are (>$200 USD per caliper) then he would absolutely be better buying from the US. This has already been discussed here mate