iruvyouskyrine

I had this info once upon a time. I think it was 310mm from memory? (was like 5 years ago) R33 is 10mm longer

Okay did a little more looking at it seems you are correct (surprise surprise haha). mitsu went to the 16G6 from evo 4 onwards they went to the G6 flavour, as well as going reverse rotation. It's funny that everything is going full circle because i was initially going to try and run an evo 8/9 turbo on the RB20 but gave up as the reverse rotation was going to make it way too much hassle (had originally planned to do it on the cheap, because RB20, and the fact you can pick up standard evo turbos for not much at all). From what i can see Mamba don't do a TD05-16G6, infact they only do one 16G, http://shop.mambatek.com/product.sc?productId=1848&categoryId=22 I don't think this is the path i want to go down really, journal bearing and open scroll housings. the GTX2860/63 seems to be the best bet at the moment. Made up an excel sreadsheet to see the major differences between everything. Didn't find any results for RB20's using the new GTX286X series turbo's, but did find out the the HKS 2530 is basically the exact same size as them. If i could get 2530 type power with even earlier spool that would be perfect. Make 220ish on 98 octane and then really lean on it on E85 with the .83 A/R housing and external gate and make some decent numbers that would make me very happy.

They actually have a name for that. It's called "RB26 owner not going EFR ragret"

A lot of my mates used to run Kando turbos but apparently since the old owner (Eiki Takada or something like that?) left and started Mamba quality has gone downhill. This seems like the perfect time to mention that i won't be running a genuine Garrett unit, i will be running a Mamba one. A few of my mates have moved to Mamba now and have had excellent results and longevity (fingers crossed) so far. I can pick up a GTX2860 CHRA and compressor housing for $849 AUD, which would suit me perfectly as i can just buy the ATP GT28 T3 twinscroll housing seperately. http://shop.mambatek.com/product.sc?productId=1751&categoryId=22 When you say 16G6 what does the second siz mean? I had a bit of a look bt couldnt find anything on it. I presume you mean a 6cm rear housing?

Neo has single 1.3mm from memory (was like 3 years ago). I put single 1.2mm in my 25/30 Neo.

I really hope so! Such a nice car

I guess EWG isn't a necessity but i just love the sound haha. Plus adds a bit of future-proofing. If/when this RB20 lets go this manifold will be going on a RB26/30 so would be nice to have an external gate if i stick with garrett and want to run a GT35 size where IWG would not be a good idea. Still leaning more towards a GT28 than an EFR, despite knowing that an EFR would probably be the best (strictly performance wise) for what i want. Yes the 2860 should definitely crack my 220-230 98 octane goal, but just wondering what sort of figures i would be looking at when i feed it E85 and really lean on it hard.

Been using Penrite 10tenths 15W-50 in my 340,000km RB30 pushing 350+ kw for the last 2 years on E85. Its used for daily/drifting and i don't have an oil cooler and at places like QR it cops 2 full days (probably 12ish hours of actual driving) up to 40+deg outside temp and i have never had any oil problems at all. Change it before every drift day and it never looks too bad (classic E85 smells/discolouration) I know no scientific evidence but i will not run anything else after how well it has treated me for so long.

Yeah i had a bit more of a look at things today and decided that i don't think i will go with an EFR. I don't want to be messing around with adapters and they don't have the correct housings for my application. I know i could weld up the internal gate but then i'm not a huge fan of dropping $3k+ on a turbo to go and weld the gate shut lol. Was having a read through the EFR turbotech PDF and it seems that only the C type rear housing (58mm +) comes in twinscroll? I know i keep banging on about twinscroll but i think that is going to be a huge part of keeping as much response as possible with the RB20. 300/400 seem like quite a lot. 10% compressor efficiency, i guess that just means that the turbo is working easier to flow the air? Looking like 2860 might be the go then and just keep the revs sane. How hard is a 2860 going to be working running 25psi on E85? (standard RB20 cams) Thanks for your help so far mate!

I knew that people would come in here recommending EFR's haha. From what i have seen they don't do a T3 Twinscroll housing for the smaller size turbos that i would be looking at. Plus they are very expensive (i know the cost of a garret, then housing, then wastegate add up but still 3k for a EFR is a lot of money for an engine that cost me $20 haha). If BW did twinscroll T3 in the correct turbo size i may consider it. Lith so you are saying that a GTX2860 with a .82 A/R T3 Twinscroll ATP housing that i linked before would be the go? I am 100% going to be on E85. Like i said i would like to make around a minimum of 220-230kw on 98 and medium boost, but i am happy to push this turbo and engine very hard on E85 and make some decently high numbers. R_34, is the 3-4lb/min of airflow between the 60 and 63 a lot? I really don't know heaps about turbo airflow and compressor maps to be honest. I will be spinning the engine to at least 8krpm. Any idea how much difference in response (i know it would be hard to guesstimate) between the 60 and 63?

Crank sprocket. The big sprocket behind the harmomic balancer that you have to remove to change the oil pump or front main seal. It either practically falls off or takes the power of Thor using 11 pry bars to get off. No amount of spraying any sort of 'release liquid' works.

But can it remove RB crank sprockets is the true test of any lubricant. Especially 25 year old rusted on RB30 ones. If yes I will buy some today. Have had so many mates reccomend different products and still nothing works very well, it seems nothing can get in between the crank and the sprocket.

Interesting. Keen to hear results kiwi.

Ahh yeah I get you!

How would the harmmonic balancer be driving still if no woodruff key? I am confuse

RB20 Turbo selection (twinscroll housing advice) Hey all, To start, this is not going to be another "i just bought my mates R32 and it had stock turbo can you plz reccomend an ebay turbo for 300kw maxx plz thanks". I started this topic because i couldn't find anyone or anything on this forum close to what i want even after searching and reading the whole "RB20 turbo upgrade" thread. The basic info/Supporting mods > Completely standard RB20DET Silvertop (with the possibility of doing valve springs) > NIStune with flexfuel setup > ID1000's > 3" straight through exhaust > 45mm divided turbosmart hypergate > RB26 inlet manifold including ITB's > Hypertune FMIC > Gibson Motorsport GTS-R T3 twinscroll exhaust manifold This is in an S15 that will be my (secondary) daily and 90% drift 10% circuit car. My goal is to make a minimum of 230ish kw on 98 octane fuel, while keeping everything as responsive as possible. Yes i know that responsive and RB20 don't belong in the same sentence and i know that it's never going to happen, but anyway. There is plenty of results all over the net for highflows/GT2871/TD06 in 18 and 20G formats, but these are all using either the stock manifold or various brands of high/low mount open T3 manifolds and standard intake piping with generic intercoolers and long piping. Basically nobody as far as i can tell has ever gone to the lengths that i have to give the RB20 as much of a fighting chance at making some decent power as early as possible. So my question is what turbo setup should i use. Keeping note that any turbo i will run will have a twinscroll manifold and twinscroll rear housing to try and keep as much response as possible. I can use something like a GTX2860/63/67/71 or bump up a frame size to a GTX3067 (Note: 67 no 76). Originally i had canned the GT28 series idea because i was under the impression that there wasn't any twinscroll T3 housings available for GT28's so i had basically accepted that i was going to have to run a GT30. But i found that ATP have this housing available that is exactly what i need. So now knowing that i am back to the drawing board to try and decide what best suits my application. Things of note, 220-230kw minimum on 98 octane would be ideal, but i will be running E85 and a 45mm turbosmart hypergate off the exhaust manifold and i am happy to run big boost (20-25psi) on ethanol to make some decent numbers. Hopefully the 45mm gate should relieve some pressure on the turbo if i decide to go with a GT28 based setup. GTX2860/63/67 with twinscroll T3 .82 A/R housing or GTX3067 with twinscroll .83 A/R housing. Hopefully someone like Lithium/disco/darren can chime in and give me some insight into roughly what power these turbos are capable of on an RB20 that has been given every chance haha. Thanks (INB4 why the fark is some idiot wasting his time and money on an RB20)

Also interested. So close to pulling the trigger on a GTX3067 but if you have some solid RB20 results I may wait

Tightish will do. Don't need a breaker bar or anything stupid.

What these guys said above. The only hope you have of getting it running somewhat well in its current state is to take it to a reputable tuner (even the they will make you get a NIStune or PowerFC at an absolute minimum). If you want to fix it yourself then as they said get everything as close as possible to standard, most importantly the turbo. Basic things to check that you didn't mention - check mechanical timing - check electrical timing - check condition of wiring loom (main loom and coilpack loom) - try known working CAS and Igniter

SAU has a terrible search function but I was on mobile and it is even worse. Thanks for the info.

Anyone know the thread size for RB Flywheel bolts? Bought my RB20 for $20 and it has been sitting outside for the last 5 years so has some rust/filth in the threads in the crank. Looking go buy a tap to clean them up. Cheers.

320 is nothing to a healthy Neo engine. Mine made 320kw on 98 for years.

Thread bump, anyone running elec power steering these days? In the form of elec hyd pump (astra/MR2) or electric assist (yaris etc)?

I have never personally used them and i actually haven't even heard of anyone using them. The pick of the bunch for modded 32 knuckles is JDI fabrication in melbourne. All the people from vicdrift use them and swear by them. Next question, why do you need different knuckles? Personally i don't believe they are needed until you are able to outdrive the standard ones and they become the limiting factor.

I may buy the Nismo Thermostat. PM me.