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iruvyouskyrine

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Everything posted by iruvyouskyrine

  1. They aren't 57D as they are a 7 spoke design not 6, also looks very different. Yeah i have been in his ear about that sort of stuff however Powertune have got that market pretty stitched up tbh. Most of it is for GT-R's tho, and gtst people only spend $ but GT-R owners are happy to spend $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
  2. What Brett said. It is just the ps/ac belt alignment and rib layouts which are null and void in my case. Built motors are for suckers, stock all day. Don't let the nissan out. Ordering new PRP rear belt guide/shim thing, putting that in and then just calling it a day, it should be fine i think it just looks strange.
  3. No shim using PRP trigger kit Because it was in stock and the 32 one wasn't Not using power steering or aircon anyway so belt location on balancer doesn't matter
  4. There is one guy on here who has done it using i believe the collins kit. Have heard that the collins one is dogshit. Fisch racing are making a complete replacement bellhousing solution ala Mazworx SR20 style which i am very interested in. Have heard one good review about the JWT kit, i think @LaurelPWR is using one on his car.
  5. Bolt is all the way home 100% while i agree it doesn't look close in the pics, after comparing to stock balancer it is fine but because they have a lip on the rear you just cant see it. Everything else lines up 100% correctly.
  6. i have a set if interedsted mate
  7. fisch automotive are making RB conversion bellhousings for CD boxes at the moment, im very interested
  8. yes but RB20/26 use same lower timing cover. Water pump belt lines up as does alternator, other belts are not used. Machining it would put it out of alignment, also not machinging a brand new $1000 balancer lol. It just seems weird having such a large gap between back of balancer and the timing cover. i know hundreds of people on here run these so thought maybe one person could at least verify for me.
  9. Hi all, Purchased an RB26 ATI Super Damper 1000HP version (P/N 917753) to suit R33/34 GTR, however I am running it on my RB20. Quality was amazing however when fitting it it really looks strange. The pulleys and inertia weight sit very far forward leaving a large space behind the hub to the lower crank sprocket. Is this normal? There is no part number on the balancer whatsoever and there is no part number on any of the box or documentation that I received. The TDC markings do line up though and obviously the ID of the hub and keyways are correct as I installed it no worries. Some pics to help explain (sorry for the bad quality) Thanks
  10. If it was my car I would just go straight to a spline drive kit (supertec proven product or possibly the new PRP item). Nitro pumps proven to work but I just think you can't beat the reliability of a properly setup spline system.
  11. I had to drill them all out to 9.5-10mm just because of the variance that you get when bolting the adapter plate together. Even though it uses countersunk screws it seems to move very slightly each time which is a pain so I just went straight to 10mm
  12. The balance tube is the top piece that links all the ITB's together to get an average pressure reference source, so that shouldn't be able to effect the sealing of the manifold? I have spent probably 15 hours assembling, measuring, checking and modifying the adapter so far. Has been on and off the engine 20 times. I ended up doing what you did and drilled out the adapter plate on the locations where the RB26 bolt holes align to the RB20 (which i think is 10 bolts IIRC) and measured for all brand new bolts. I have some pics i might throw up later on but it's almost ready for final installation now. Im using 2x OEM fibrous RB20 inlet manifold gasket and the rest is Siruda RB26 metal inlet gasket set. I used a dickload of RTV last time but think im just going to use straight gaskets only this time.
  13. Haha, whats leaking, air or water? Where is it leaking for you?
  14. Can you try a link to the video again? Didn't work for me. Also i am a large contributer to the oil control thread but i disagree with unzippied, i believe those splash trays will actually be beneficial as long as your ring pack is not already absolutely fkd. I will be purchasing some soon for my next engine (mystery spec RB20). @Dose Pipe Sutututu jealous you have the extra blank plug on your AWD block. I will be fitting a crankcase pressure sensor on mine but no good place to put it ( i dont want it in rocker covers for aesthetic reasons). I think i will end up welding a -3AN line to the dipstick and run the sensor remote. If i had the blank in the block it would be ideal.
  15. Interesting, thanks for the feedback. When you say its hard to get a good feel what exactly do you mean? There is only a small windows between good braking and locking the brakes up? etc Hard to describe i know but certainly curious. Thanks
  16. This is of interest to me. I recently purchased the AOR Evo Brembo kit as well. Running Evo 9 brembos front and rear. 350x20mm 370Z rear brake rotor and 350x32mm Evo X front rotor. Did heaps of research on what BMC to use and couldn't come to a conclusion. Decided to just use my stock (S15) BM50 2 port and use a double banjo bolt on the front system as I deleted ABS and made all my own brake lines. Will report back once cars running (probably 6 months) as to what feel is like. Thanks
  17. Hey mate I have a whole RB26 idle air setup for sale, pm me
  18. Scrolled back and had a man look and couldn't see it..... did you repaint the wheels? if yes where did you get new RAYS stickers, and are they good quality? I just repainted my TE37 and need new stickers
  19. yeah there was more at play here than just shit spacers (but don't be confused, those look like truly shit spacers). Centre bore looks to be an issue for sure. Spacers are't ideal but they aren't that bad. Have run them on my drift cars for years and never even had an issue.
  20. Just some pics in general and a run down of your setup. What cams/turbo/boost are you running and power you making? ?
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