iruvyouskyrine

I may have my R34 GT-T Adaptronic plug in for sale soon if that interests either of you

Baffled/trapdoor, extended sump and putting the -10 lines as high as possible on the sump will negate most of that issue. My oversize sump takes about 6.5L. I don't imagine I will ever have an issue.

Uumm...it's absolutely that simple. Spacers come in almost every size and you can always get some made for the exact size you want. Very popular sizes are 5,8,10mm.

The best way to clearance the guard by 5-10mm would be to remove the 15mm spacer and put either a 5mm or a 10mm one on instead. Bam, science.

Standard NA bottom end, standard head with wobble sticks if you can afford them. Enlarged sump with trapdoors/baffles if tracking it. Put 2x -10 fittings on sump regardless. Take baffles out of cam covers, fill with fuel cell foam and put baffles back on. Appropriate oil restrictors in block depending on what head you are using. Then put together and thrash the absolute f**k out of it like I do with mine. HTA3076 should be a killer turbo. If I was you i would go 1.06 rear and really turn up the boost and see how you go. I imagine you should make around 400ish kw depending on a few things.

I'm sure you have looked into it XKALABA but have heard a lot of good things about yaris coils, nothing on RB's though.

Disconnect knock sensors and measure resistance back from knock sensor plug to ECU plug. And measure the resistance of the knock sensors themselves and report back.

He meant that GTX3071 makes roughly same power as GT3076 but more responsive because smaller and lighter. I agree with what you said about the sound though. They sounds fuxking tits.

My untrained and non qualified eye agrees with you. I'm interested what GTSboy has to say.

I didn't grease my pivot at all and it's been fine the last 3 years. It would be incredibly hard to do with the gearbox on. Try and hit it with some WD40 using the long spray nozzle.

Just buy a shitload of washers and use the required amount. Then measure total amount and cut spacer to suit.

Hi all, Any help identifying the body kit on this R34? Sideskirts/overfenders/rearpods Had a look around on the net and cant find any info on this particular car, thanks!

And sound a lot better doing it as well. FYI I have stock RB30DE bottom end, Stock 25DET Neo head, 6 boost and Hypergear SS2 (roughly equivalent to a 3076), 3" straight through exhaust, 45mm external gate straight to atmo and I'm making 340kw on 16psi with a misfire. Has plenty left in it and f**k it's fun to drive.

All r33/34 RB25 head gaskets are exactly the same. Your second line is confusing. You want to take out RB25DE Neo and replace the whole engine with R33 RB25DET correct?

Powered By Max just released a range of airbagged coilovers. They are based in NZ and USA.

That's correct. Just plug yours in and it should all work.

R33 N/A has the same gearbox as RB20 DE or DET. Will all bolt in the same, not sure about the neutral/reverse wiring though. Everything else on your list is needed, seems you have done your homework

Check out the new PBM range

If it looks big it's 25. If it looks small it's 20. RP71C is cast into RB20 box as well I believe. It's best to just look at some pics online and get an idea of what each looks like before going to have a look.

Holley Dynamat

Only do the crank seal if the sprocket is easy to get off. If it's a flamin mongrel and there is no signs if it leaking, just leave it be.

Location?

Location?

I'm not sure, I did the same as you and cut one of the barbs off and just use the single barb now. I know the rear one screws into the block but not sure about the front as I never removed it. I don't think silicone would hold it back in if it's loose. If it's still an interference fit then a little sealant would be fine I would think.

Hi Ruth. I just joined my two water outlets and have never had an issue with high temps. It was hard to find info on blocking or joining them I found so I just went and joined them. I do run a water cooled turbo though so I just got a -6 fitting welded to the rear heater hose line. That way I can still have water feed but no chance of leaks using braided hose I didn't incorporate a bleeder into my setup either, I just park car on a hill and use an extension on my radiator cap to make it the highest part of the system to bleed it and it seems to work a treat. Let me know what you end up doing