iruvyouskyrine

Soooooo. Maybe a meet up this Friday night pending numbers?

Saw a mint 32 with SSR fronts and yellow N1 headlights on the highway back from twin servos to newcastle last night. Also saw white R34 with HID's turning on to the highway at Beresfield at 8:40

What are the castings on the block and head. And also what is the engine number? And can you take a pic of the top of the head, specifically of the cams/lifters. Cheers.

Head is neo. Pistons are neo. What question are you asking exactly?

Pretty sure RB20/25 are all 4 rib. RB30 P/S is 3 rib.

Belt drive arrangement is the same 20/25/neo. Alternator and water pump (that way if you lose that belt the battery light will come on before the car overheats) Air con. Power steering.

If it doesn't work one way, just switch them

Direct from NPC. Shows the price difference between Push and Pull. And that was just the clutch/pressure plate assembly. No flywheel.

Have put on 7-8 gates timing belts and never had them whine. My mate (qualified mechanic) put his HKS belt on and it whines. I'm going to assume it's all to do with how much you tension them to rather than the gates belt itself tbh.

Just putting it out there mate. Trent said he had been running it for 4-5 years and he's in the business of knowing this sort of stuff. I'm not suggesting that it's required just putting it out there so people can make their own educated choices.

Dial in cam gears and a stiffer gate spring. Cam timing is currently set for top end power (this happenes when you have a RB30 bottom end and use the standard timing marks on the RB25 cam backing plate) but as I have adjustable intake and exhaust gears we can dial them both in and move everything on the graph to the left. Also the gate starts opening at about 8psi so it's slow to build boost. Put a 14psi spring it and turn up the gain a little on the boost controller should have it coming on nice and strong

IIRC Trent from checkered tuning (fk knows how to spell it haha) suggested that E85 doesn't lubricate the seals in fuel pumps and injectors or something similar. He always runs some sort of motul additive.

Walking off the dyno. We just couldn't get It strapped down properly haha. Every few pulls we had to strap it down tighter and tighter. Just gave up in the end as this is just an intermediate tune so I can give the engine some love to make sure it's all good before I go throwing a heap of boost at it. No idea what is possible with a standard GTR cooler to be honest. Have seen some people on here say it's a restriction after 350kw and other says it's fine 400kw+. All I know is that they fit perfect and for $50 a cooler you can't really go wrong especially when I want to take spares to drift days etc. Yep I'm amazed at how much difference 3psi makes! Can't wait to turn the wick up haha. I will probably chuck in a 14psi gate spring and go from there. Just for the dyno we revved it out to 7k and it kept making power, which to me is another indication cam timing is out. I'll try and move the whole graph left and set rev limit at 6500 for engine longevity. I just want it to make as many clouds as your car does haha

Some feedback for you stao. > Stock untouched RB30E bottom end > Stock untouched RB25DET Neo head > VCT > Hypergear ATR43SS2 (mid 2013 model) > 6boost exhaust manifold > Turbosmart 45mm hypergate (7psi spring) venting to atmo > 3" straight through exhaust > E85 > Adaptronic R34 GT-T select plug in > X-Spurt 1000cc injectors > R32 GTR intercooler First impressions are that its so much fun everywhere in the rev range. Comes on to boost very fast in the upper RPM as you would expect, lower RPM is still pretty quick but has room to improve. The cam timing is slightly out and I didn't have time to get a degree wheel and set them perfectly to zero, the gate is only running a 7psi spring at the moment which makes it a little lazy also. Once I get back on the dyno and fiddle with both intake and exhaust cams (both are now adjustable from the front thanks to Ben C34) and chuck a 14psi spring in the gate it should be quite a monster. Can't upload the boost graph for some reason. 10psi low boost and 13psi high at the moment. I assume this is not even reaching the turbos efficiency range yet? I haven't seen anyone run such low boost using one of your turbos haha. It's quick enough for me already but I really want to go back fix the cam timing, bigger gate spring and chuck 20+ psi at it and see what it makes hahaha.

Ouch. I paid $1200 iirc for the same clutch but pull type. Shows how much more expensive they are. This was 2 years ago though.

My NPC carbotic also felt just like stock when I was using 32 gts-t clutch master cylinder. Using 33 clutch master and it is slightly heavier but nothing ridiculous. Still very light for what it is able to handle.

Oh and this is sure to ruffle some feathers. And once you come off the throttle you also get a huge dose Hahahaha.

Running decent cams and a reasonably loud exhaust you get that nice rumbling RB noise. You get the induction and spooling noise coming on to boost. Then you crack gate and you get ear porn.

I'd probably just get rid of the throttle body all together. Buy a portable compressor and run it off the battery, then run a hose line from the air compressor straight into your manifold. Can have higher than atmospheric pressure air charge at all time. The best part is you no longer even need a turbo! It's just choking up the exhaust side now.

scotty nm35 on these forums

Yes I did when I ran low mount. Won't fit high mount and getting them in fixed size is shit. Just get a local place to knock up some lines in the right lengths, it's a lot more convenient.

Have only heard good things about castlemain rod shop. Can't give any actual feedback though unfortunately. But be sure to post pics, sounds like an interesting swap!

I'd jam as many shims as possible into it. Keeping in mind that it will work but is not a permanent solution and you will have to shell out for a proper mechanical diff or get an open centre and weld that eventually. INB4 GTSboy copy and pastes his rant about shimming VLSD's

Yep that's correct. Everything fits except the IACV, of which you can contact Ben C34 on here for an adapter to use the neo one, or buy an R33 RB25 item and do a little bit of wiring.

I have heard that GKtech are making R180 and R200 spools but that was months ago and nothing seems to have come to fruition.