iruvyouskyrine

Welcome back mate, good to see you back here! The Power FC is certainly a very capable ECU still. Your tuner should have no issues with this but I would leave all the tuning to him and not fiddle with anything afterwards without getting the go ahead from him, that is if he is a competent tuner. One last thing, more pics!

Hey guys. Turbo came off my RB25 (3000km old) and got put onto my 25/30 and did maybe 100k's. Took it off to fiddle with some things and was taking the rear housing off for paint. Found what looks like little burr marks on the outer edge of some of the fins. Something (very small) has been through the turbo. If it was rubbing against the housing it would be on all find but its only on 3-4. It's just enough to catch a fingernail on. Just looking for some advice on whether it's fine to run or getting Hypergear to rebuild (?) it. This is out of my knowledge range so thought I would ask here. Cheers guys.

Got any more info kiwi? I'm in the market for one of these to keep an eye on my oil pressure.

You really think that having your ECU monitor your oil pressure is pointless? I have no idea about the reaction some of the sensors but surely it can't hurt. I understand a seconds worth of oil starvation at 8k RPM is extremely detrimental to the engine but surely something is better than nothing in this regard?

The block is however Nissan made it back in 1988 haha. Just a wrecker RB30 bottom end with 1.2mm restrictor. Neo head, standard cams, 6 boost exhaust mani, Greddy ffp, turbosmart 45mm hypergate, Hypergear SS2, Bosch EV14 1000cc, e85, adaptronic is a basic run down. I have a build thread here in the RB30 section you can suss out. Should be getting tuned on the 16th feb.

I was in the same boat last year. Loved the nistune just the AFM was a little annoying with my intake setup as I am running a 4" pipe. Talk to Matt about a mob over in the U.S that does specialty AFM's. It was what I was going to run as it was perfect for my situation and Matt has already integrated them into nistune. I have a topic on here about it, search and you shall find.

I still can't wait to drive it with the RB30 + Neo + VCT + E85 + SS2. I'm thinking I'm going to jam in my pants first drive.

Absolutely. Just a shame I didn't think of it back in September last year when it first started leaking. Fabricator was positive he could re-weld it and it would be fine. After 3 attempts over 3 months I finally cracked the shits and said tap it.

PS, bought a single block of Aeroflow fuel cell foam for $20. There is enough for at least 3x pairs of RB25 cam covers, possibly 4.

Did this over the weekend, but to RB25 cam covers. Was simple enough, hopefully it is effective

This things isn't dead. I swear. Flavour of the month at the moment is a weld leaking from where the fitting for the VCT was welded to the head. Nothing is able to stop it. Long story short engine is back out and head has gone away to be fixed. Will be drilled and tapped rather than getting a fitting welded on. So just getting a general tidy up while there is no engine in the bay. Relocating power distribution block, installing castor arms (the only non standard arm in the car even after 2 years drifting haha), removing front swaybar because front wheels hit it now due to extra steering lock. Picked up a new pair of rims to help combat the issue. 18x8+38 AVS model 5's. Love these wheels just shit sizes, will run them with a 25mm spacer on the front which should give me plenty of inner clearance. Decided to paint some Shit too because it looks pretty average without paint. Used VHT wrinkle coat and it came out pretty good, I'm impressed. Goes for tune (hopefully) at DVS JEZ on 16th feb and (hopefully) making its debut at Streetkarnage Halfway Hangs at RALEIGH raceway 20th feb lol. Last minute hustle come at me.

Standard neo cams. Adjustable intake (retaining VCT, talk to Ben C34) and adjustable exhaust. Using a Greddy style FFP.

Yep will be getting tuner to adjust them on the dyno was just looking for a rough base setting to get it close. I had the engine running before and it made boost from very low rpm but just had no power under 5k, but after that it went alright. I highly highly suspect my base timing was way out even though I aligned to the marks on the timing backing plate.

Putting these on soon. Any advice appreciated.

18-19mm is more then enough travel. Your problem lies elsewhere.

Something something need a tuneable ECU if changing injectors sizes etc etc

Hey all, Have had a few engines over the years. My RB20/25/30 I have all taken the sump off and just sat the engine in the girdle. Never have it a second thought until now, I don't imagine it's detrimental to anything, except possibly the bearings? Was thinking the flats between the girdle and block would take the pressure rather than the bearings though.

A bit OT but how are you graphing all your logs like that johnny? Neat and easy to digest

I can guarantee you won't be disappointed. Can't be bothered scrolling back to find out, but please make sure you have a tuneable ECU also.

Yes terry I have seen old school Nismo gear knobs on yahoo.jp

1/4 ratchet, extension, uni joint, extension and some patience. I've done it plenty of times not that hard, just keep at it.

Where are you located? Just trying to figure out what tracks you would be drifting. My mate started drifting in a bog stock NA R33 with a 2 way, and he f**king kills it for it being a non turbo car. He actually won the amateur series and was the only NA car in the field, so skidding an NA r33 is definitely possible but he can really steer very well. Personally I would either buy a turbo S13/180 (SR not CA) or a R32/33. Can pick up a fairly standard one of any of these cars for 5k. 33's seem to be especially cheap at the moment. You do have the (harder) option of turbo'ing your current car, but you would have to replace the gearbox with a 25 turbo box which is a $1-1.5k adventure on its own.

Also don't get an N/A car. I know plenty of people will say you can skid them fine and you can. But honestly it's easier and more fun to learn in a turbo car to be honest.

Any R/S chassis with a properly locking diff (2 way, shimmed standard or welded [im not going to judge you]) is a very capable drift car. Make sure it doesn't have any boost leaks, that it has an adequate cooling system, a check of the AFR's and a good fuel pump would be my prerequisites if I was about to get into it. If you have a bit of cash to throw around then next mods would be front mount intercooler, exhaust, electronic boost controller and oil pressure/temp and water temp gauges (don't trust the standard ones) but any car you buy now will have some/most of these already. You will be amazed how far you can push a standard car before the car become the limiting factor and not your skill as a driver/size of your testicles.