iruvyouskyrine

No issues as in the wheels were turning under engine load and the gearbox/clutch didn't turn into 1975333 different pieces.

Okay. Clutch master is actuating the slave about an inch and has excellent pedal feel the entire way to the floor, so I would say that is fine. Clutch slave has a decent amount of throw and no leaks etc, so I think that's fine. Clutch fork is all good, not bent/cracked etc and the pivot point is all good. Carrier bearing looked fine no abnormal marks etc. Clutch disc itself looked fine. Pressure plate looked fine although I wasn't sure exactly what I was looking for, just looking for general abnormalities. Also the carrier bearing is pulling on the pressure plate diaphragm and is pulling it out as it should. So everything appears to be in a working condition. When the car is on jackstands it can be started in any gear and the wheels turn freely and change speed with acceleration. This would indicate the part of the gearbox is fine Imagine (not sure what part as I'm no specialist). I also started the car in 1st gear and drove it around no issues. When it was driving I was unable to get it out of first though, I was applying a decent amount of pressure on the shifter but it just didn't want to come out of first. So yeah I have been thinking about it for the last 4 days and have not come up with a single idea that hasn't had a logical conclusion as to why it can't be that part that isn't functioning correctly. Cash reward offered to the first person that tells me what the issue to my problem is.

Both sold, thanks for the interest.

Box out. Clutch looks good (definitely on the correct way, like I said, impossible to put single plate on backwards) pressure plate looks good, flywheel good, carrier bearing good. Box in. Exactly the same problem. gosh darn. Broken box?

I know that and I completely understand why, yes VCT is very worthwhile. Only a few months ago I would have said anyone is crazy not keeping VCT. But in my situation I am very time restricted and have zero drive to do anything on the car at the moment.

Plenty of people run without VCT so is it really that detrimental to the cams? Keeping in mind I have a Neo head which is different to R33. And I have absolutely zero motorvation (pun intended) to do anything on the piece of shite at the moment.

Sorry have been preoccupied with other issues. Yeah my mate cracked the rocker cover putting it on but it doesn't leak. Turns out the external VCT feed line was leaking. I blocked it off at the block and nothing leaked a single drop of oil. Only ran it for 5 minutes but beforehand it leaked straight away. Don't think I can be bothered taking the cam gears off again to fix it. Probably just run without VCT.

I should know you are going to get snappy with me when you deal with people like Ron

I know that Benny boy. Just asking if there is any known issues before I beak it open, find everything looks fine and put it all back together and have it not work. I hope it is something as simple as clutch plate backwards but when I touch stuff it never is. Just got me stumped that it won't disengage even though the release carrier is doing it's job.

Okay so it's something internal. Moved the clutch fork until it hit the front of the hole cut out in the bell housing aka absolute full clutch fork travel. Still will not disengage the clutch. What could go wrong with the pressure plate/clutch plate to cause it to still be engaged even though the release bearing is pulling on the diaphragm?

Had a think about it and I'm sure it's impossible to put it on backwards as the clutch plate fouls the flywheel so you can't bolt the pressure plate on.

Should also say that it was working perfectly with the R32 clutch master previously but won't disengage with the R33 master I now use. But by the look of these videos I'm 99% sure it's not master cylinder issue.

Hey all. R34 GT-T gearbox with NPC carbotic single plate clutch. Was installed and running fine but engine died so it come out and is going on to the new engine. It looked in perfect condition when it came out. So put it back in and now it will not disengage at all. Have bled/adjusted the pedal about 26 times now so I can confirm that it's not the issue. Pedal feel is excellent and I will attatch a video of clutch fork movement. Looking inside the box you can clearly see the release bearing pulling back the fingers of the pressure plate what looks like more than enough distance to disengage it. As far as I am aware the only step you can gosh darn up in the install is putting the clutch itself in backwards? I didn't think it was possible but that's about the only thing I can think of. Will having it in backwards make the clutch unable to be disengaged? Any advice/help is appreciated. Thanks.

I have another Neo VCT solenoid I might plug in and try. Why not.

So it still leaks. First time I have had it out in the sun and now I notice that it also leaks down the side of the block not just at the front of the engine as well. It leaks from the intake cam right around to where the second runner is on a greddy forward facing plenum, so between cylinder 1 and 2ish. Peoples thoughts on if it is still the cam seal that is leaking that it would be able to reach back around the block that far? I have thermos that push a fair bit of air so not sure if they would be able to blow the oil back that far. n the side of the engine it looks like it's leaking from the block but at the front it's still leaking from higher up because the oil is running down the head to where the VCT solenoid is. I have put a small amount of liquid gasket on the VCT solenoid thread and also put an O-Ring in as it has a taper that looks like an O-Ring is supposed to go there. Thinking of removing VCT solenoid and blanking it with a bolt? Will give a lot more visual access to try and identify leaking area. Welded VCT feed in head and DID NOT block the existing VCT feed in the block. I'm thinking now that I definitely should of done this. Also running an RB30 cometic metal head gasket. Any advice/thoughts appreciated at this stage. Supposed to get tuned next Friday

Yep what Kinkstahh said, pics of engine would help greatly.

Buy/borrow a new boost gauge from your mate or any automotive retail store. Make sure it reads 20psi or more.

Yes any TD06/GT30 and equivalent precision etc can be low mounted without too much hassle. Will need a T3 manifold spacer for front housing clearance on the exhaust manifold though. Cracking 300kw at the rear wheels low mounted with a reasonable stealthy setup is no issue nowdays. I have heard that all Kinugawa turbos have issues with internal gate setup. I have experienced it twice firsthand so dont really want to recommend them. Externally gated they are fine. But what I suggest is a Hypergear ATR43SS2. It is a true bolt on turbo with hardly any modification required and will make the power no worries. No issues with the internal gate either. What fuel will you be using?

Head is completely stock. Had the cams out to get decked flat but then they went back in, didn't touch the valves etc. I'm very certain that it's an issue with the cam seals/cam cap. Will report back tonight on how it's going.

Sure mate send me a PM with details

Search and ye shall find.

No I was using my R32 printed engine manual as I lost the R34 one when my computer died. Both RB20/25/26 were the same but none of them had VCT so that may play a part in it. Greased seals in with no sealant under front cam caps results in no oil leakage when engine is running but when I turn engine off it leaks oil. Weird.

What 3bond product are you talking about exactly? There is a whole catalogue haha

Okay thanks guys will try this. Someone has already PM'd me and said to do this also. My genuine Nissan service manual makes no mention of applying any sort of sealant to either the cam caps or the cam seals upon installation. The sealant I have been using is a permatex ultra blue RTV silicone gasket maker.

I used grease on the cam seals (as recommended by my mechanic mate) and was considering using liquid gasket on the cam caps but didn't. There is 3 points at which oil drains into behind the cam seal, one in the head itself and 2 little holes either side of the cam cap. So you are saying I should liquid gasket everywhere around the cap but not where those drain holes are?