iruvyouskyrine

Progress! > Put spigot in, used ARP bolts for flywheel, put flywheel on. > Removed flywheel and put gearbox cover plate on. > Put flywheel back on. > Gearbox on > Attempted to put engine in > Removed clutch master cylinder > Put engine in Thoughts on everything so far. I need a new clutch master cylinder as the R32 one is too long and fouls on the plenum. Will be going the tried and true method of getting an R33 item. Extended sump site perfectly between the cross member and swaybar, couldn't be happier with it fitment wise. I use Nismo engine mounts and only found out while putting the engine in that they sit the engine higher than standard nissan mounts. The bonnet will be very close to no shutting, i think i will have to cut out the ribbing on the inside of it to be able to shut it haha, it's something i am slightly worried about. Also the turbo looks a whole lot bigger sitting up high and not lurking down out of view anymore! When i get my cooler piping done i will get my fabricator to make the rad support removable as it really is a pain. I don't plan on taking the engine out (obviously!) but it will be so much easier if i have to. Any one have any idea of the legalities of a removable rad support? Next up is putting everything back into the engine bay and connecting everything back up, which i can't wait to get stuck into!

Hahah, what isn't homebrew in your car?! I am going tried and true 3" straight through staino with a 4" tip (just for looks) Also, progress!

Thanks for the link mate, very helpful

Are 14 ohm considered high or low impedance injectors?

I am 90% sure that R32 GT-R radiator will fit R32 gts-t.

I have x-spurt 1000cc, Neo plenum, rail, reg, injector plugs you can have for $800 haha. Only seen bout 1000km's use.

Both are stock RB30E rods. The last number on the rods indicate the size (more so the tolerances) of them. The '2' on the piston is the same thing again. When the blocks were made they had to allow for tolerances as not every block can be made absolutely perfectly sized as all the others. So each piston has a 0,1,2 or 3 stamped into it. Each number represents a certain size out of tolerance, or a different tolerance bracket. Have a look at the top of the block next to the bores and you will also find a number stamped into it. The block and piston numbers should match for each cylinder.

GKtech were talking about releasing full spools for R180 and R200's about nine months ago. I asked a while back about them and they said next year sometime.

I would have just had no one to help me turn the engine on the stand haha. Also saw you at DCA Simon, car sounded absolutely insane! What exhaust are you running? Is it a fully stainless system?

Location?

I have done the same thing. Reg goes after the fuel rail. I won't forget that now

Pics of engine bay, specifically cam gears, cam covers and VCT actuator please.

Check out Hypergear mate. Truly a case of, old turbo off, new turbo on with no fitment issues. Might only be a few hundred more than these turbos but made here in Australia and the customer service you get is second to none. Couldn't recommend them enough

Yeah it's a greddy copy. The only reason it's not advertised as fitting the R34/Neo head is the IACV is different. You can just make up an adaptor and use the Neo IACV (have seen pictures of it done on this forum) it you could use an R33 IACV, which is probably what I will end up doing.

Yeah I was sure that's the way it went back together. I added 2x M6 washers which added an extra 3mm preload to the spring. Also got the crankcase ventilation sorted, got my sump baffled and trapdoors added. Also got 2x -10 AN fittings welded to the sump

I'm 99% sure this is how it goes and it's just the seat for the spring and I know people will laugh for me asking, but it's better to be safe than sorry

Okay i have what is hopefully the last quiestion. I have this from Simon that was posted in another thread I had my engine on a stand when i removed the relief valve. I was careful to remove the nut and spring carefully, but then as i placed them down something else fell out. It looks like a bucket type thing, will post a pic in a second. But can anyone tell me which direction and order these things go back in. Annoying because i tried hard to keep it all together i just didnt realize there was another thing in there. Also i don't know what ball bearing simon is talking about, i can't see one in there.

Yeah i wouldn't be surpsised to see a fair bit of stuff there after 20 years of running. Unfortunately it's too late now as the head is already on haha, this bottom end was untouched anyway. If it was doing a bottom end rebuild i would pull them out for sure!

Did you have a look at the HPX AFM's that have been linked GTSBoy? Very different from just popping a standard Z32 in the cooler piping. http://www.pmas-maf.com/store.php#!/~/product/category=8217001&id=32363037 http://www.pmas-maf.com/store.php#!/~/product/category=7190940&id=37210313

Hi guys, I am finally assembling the engine just a quick one, do I have the knock sensors in the correct position or do they go on the lower bosses? Thanks.

http://www.pmas-maf.com/store.php#!/~/product/category=7190940&id=37210313 Could get that welded into my intercooler piping and just stick that HPX Z32 MAF in there

That looks interesting. Could just stick that in my 2.5" intercooler piping and forget about it rather than having to try and fit the Z32 in there. I am still not sure if i should put it in the hot or cold side of the piping though...

Just doing some research on the topic and i saw that back in 2011 you said you were running a Z32 in your cooler piping. Was it cold side or hot side? No noticeable issues? Turbo outlet is 2.5" so the 3" Z32 is already bigger than my cooler piping. Will have to step it up to put the Z32 in there Also i won't be running a BOV if i don't have to.

Definitely will not be getting a Link G4+ as i know i don't need something that powerful for my applicaiton, and the budget is already being very stretched to cover the Adaptronic. I understand that what Ben said is correct, the AFM can only measure so much air (which translates to so much power) before reading 5v and then any extra air that does flow through is not recorded. Was also looking at the Q45 as someone suggested, the advantage to that is its 90mm and would fit better in my intercooler piping. I don't care about data logging, all i really need is wideband input and i am happy, which NIStune will provide.