iruvyouskyrine

I'm also keen to see what's out there. Is there any good RB high mount stainless manifolds that will not crack? I don't want to pay drug money for them either ie full race (not that they aren't worth that much it's just not within the realms of my budget)

It's been doing the rounds on Facebook the last week. It's a GT35 in the boot of a V8 soarer. I have a funny feeling Scotty may know something about it

I got an RB25 box moved from QLD to NSW for $60 through e-go

Turbosmarts come with either 7 or 14psi springs standard, then you buy other springs to get your desired boost pressure. Also it might sound simple but i have no idea how technically minded you are. Make sure you buy springs that equal slightly less than your desired pressure, as you cannot run less boost that the wastegate spring pressure.

Turbosmart or TiAL. Preferably the first because as Superben said, Aussie made.

Awesome, thanks for that mate. Hopefully mine should be a good thing! Just have to get it all together now

FYP

I took mine off twice and just ensured all bolts were tight with a 3/8 ratchet. No locking compound (loc-tite) or torque values are really needed, just make sure they are fairly tight

That link works but they are out of stock.

Standard headgasket size is 1.3mm (51thou)?

Needs moar engine to be attached to. It's currently at the fabricator getting baffles and trapdoors in the sump Has already been machined for external VCT feed, internal VCT feed welded up, sent to the machine shop and machined flat and had a braided line made up. Still needs tensioner tapped, sump finished, drill and tap bosses for knock sensors, -10 AN fittings welded to the sump. Will also get braided lines made up for the power steering which will be P clamped in position. Then I will get it back and assemble the engine and drop it in the car, take it back to fabricator and get dump pipe, screamer pipe and 3" full stainless straight through exhaust made up. Should sound angry, but never heard an RB with full straight through staino before so slightly worried about volume haha.

Pics of R33 modified crossmember.

Beautiful wheels, good luck with sale.

I used ARP flywheel bolts on my RB25 and they were fine. The packet they came in said they were for a 3S-GTE (toyota 4 cylinder) but they worked perfectly for me. Exactly what bolts were you using? A rebuild is better than losing your feet.

Location?

You mean inexpensive? As pull type clutches are more costly than push types. Or you mean it's only expensive because you have to do the conversion and then by the clutch on top?

When you painted your dump with the VHT paint, did you prime it first or just sprayed it straight on? I just applid it straight to the metal but mine is all flaky wheres yours looks mint!

So while i have everything out of the engine bay i have decided to repaint it. I'm thinking silver, should work well with the burgandy/maroon colour the car is. Also while there is nothing sitting in the engine bay i have decided to start chasing a little extra steering lock. This will be brought about by; > modifying the x-member and moving the steering rack forward 20-25mm to minimise steering bind at full lock > using R33 LCA's to increase front track and negative camber > using A32 maxima tie rod's which are 325mm in length, longer than standard R32 items > getting standard knuckle's modified by JDI fabrication > keeping standard R32 tie rod ends > using GKtech steering rack lock washers Overall this should provide a fairly decent amount of steering lock without going to ridiculous lengths. A few people i have talked to have said that this setup provides them with more lock than they need to use, which is good news Also, GATE!

long shot but still for sale?

It sounds good in theory, i just couldn't trust myself in doing it. Would hate to see $1000 down the drain haha

I did toy with the idea of an angled spacer, or cutting the flange off and remounting at a different angle but the inside is all die grinded smooth at the collector and its all really nice. Would rather not do that but if i have to.......

Brand new, completely unused. It should be known that i bought it off another member of this forum unused as well, not direct from 6boost. Just my luck though That's what i was thinking, that's why i asked for pics. I was looking for your engine bay manuel but couldn't find it, i'm sure there is a pic in this thread somewhere.

Surely people can understand my situation. I have 2 reputable people (Hypergear and 6Boost) both telling me that it's not their product that is at fault. I just want to know what my issue is. That's why I asked for pictures of other people setups to be 100% sure that the turbo is fine.

And before anyone says "just clock the front housing" there is no way that will fix the issue.