iruvyouskyrine

Beautiful, cheers!

Got a link to the guide you were reading?

My tailshaft sits out about that far as well. Will it be okay to clutch kick 3rd with it like that. Last thing i want to do is break the spline on the gearbox output shaft.

What's the point? Then I can't sell my push/pull converter

Surely you meant to say wouldn't* run anything except a 6Boost?

Should say that pull type clutches are a lot more expensive than push type clutches also. I have an OS Giken push/pull clutch converter if you want as well, PM me for more info. The 34 box has triple synchros as well I believe.

GTSboy nailed it. Everything that needs to be done is in ^that post.

The point he is trying to make is that by using launch control you want it making as much power as possible straight off the line. It won't be a lag monster if you can get it spooled while stationary. It's not like you leave the line and then let it spool up, in which case yes you do want a smaller turbo not a lag monster. But the whole point of drag racing is leaving the hole as fast as you can and keeping the car on boost the whole length of the track. It doesn't matter If you are making 350kw or 500kw, you want it making power straight away and keeping that power the whole length of the track.

R34 /Neo ECU's are able to be NISTuned straight up.

It's around here somewhere. Search and you shall find. I'm on my phone so I can't do it for you.

Yeah sorry, i mean to say on the engine not in the car, it definitely cannot be done in car as you can't take the sump off at all.

Might sound like a stupid question but I honestly have no idea. Is this all done with the oil pump on the car still? I thought it would have to be taken off.

How hard was shimming the oil pump simon? Any chance if a quick run though on how to do it and what sort of oil pressure can I expect with the shims in?

Yeah thanks all. The thread was a shitfight so I thought it was a time for a summary. I will probably edit it in a week or two once everyone has had their say. There was talk about a check valve but I didn't really think it was an absolute necessity, considering the standard Nissan setup has oil vapours returning into the air intake. With the setup as it currently is I would suspect that there should be only very very small amounts of oil entering back into the engine. Is it a good idea, I would say yes, but I wouldn't say it is a necessity. Also I neglected to talk about blowby control, but will add it into the post soon. Isn't it funny that people who slap together a backyard built engine and expect it to have perfect oil control just because "it's fully forged so it must be awesome" end up dumping litres of oil into their engine bay. When things like ring gaps and correctly suited rings are neglected and more money is spent on forged pistons/rods instead, you can't expect to keep your oil under control.

Fittings in the sump?

I would (option C) purchase a hypergear turbo that is a direct bolt on and not f**k about with changing wastegates and manifolds.

Whoops, yes i did mean catch can, corrected it now. Yes i understand that now. The two goals are to reduce the amount of oil entering the head, and equalize crankcase pressure. The oiling issue is solved by selecting the appropriately sized oil restrictor/s that vary with each engine set up. What must be taken into account is the head that you are using, and the oil pump that you are using. Heads with hydraulic lifters (IE R33 RB25) require more oil in the head than heads with Hydraulic lifters (RB26, RB25 NEO) and as such larger restrictors (IE providing less oil restriction) are used in those engines. Here is a slight update on the original Skydneykid table created way back in 2006. It is pretty much exactly as it was just more user friendly and now includes the NEO. I left the RB20 off the table as nobody seems to be interested in them RE oil control issues, questions about them were asked nowhere near as frequently as RB25/26. They can be added back in if you wish. The other issue is that of crankcase pressurization. The steps taken to achieve this are drilling out the oil returns in the block to 10mm, and giving them a chamfered edge to promote oil drainage. To displace the oil that is in the head, air must be moved into the head allowing the oil to drain (I am going to use the 'turning a drink bottle upside down' analogy here even though its not 100% accurate i think it gives everyone a good idea of what is going on) Increasing the oil drain cross-sectional area by drilling not only promotes oil drainage but gives air a larger path to travel up into the head, which increases drainage yet again. A Combination of these two mods is a very good start to sorting out the problems associated with RB oil control, and should be the starting point for anyone looking into this. A good catch can setup will help even further by acting as an equalizer for crankcase pressure and catching any oil that would otherwise be making its way back into the engine. I will use the method that KiwiRS4T has mentioned and others seem to be using with success. Both cam covers are individually run to a catch can mounted at approximately battery height in the engine bay. 2x -10AN fittings are welded onto the sump above the oil level in the sump. One is run to the highest point in the catch can, and the other run to the lowest point. The catch can can then be either vented to atmosphere, or run to another catch can that does the final oil/air separation before being piped back into the turbo intake. All of the things mentioned above should be supported by other basic modifications such as Baffling in the cam covers, whether it be mines baffles or something similar Trapdoors in the sump to keen a consistent oil pickup Increasing the capacity of the sump Using an oil cooler Even better control of oil would be done by having A Nissan N1 oil pump, or any aftermarket item (Nitto, Tomei etc) Fitting your standard nissan on N1 pump with billet gears (Reimax, Nitto etc) Fitting a crank colllar to your crankshaft to widen oil pump gear engagement Running an ACCUSUMP accumulator to control split second oil pressure loss and for the benefit of pre-oiling Pics below of what SimonR32 has done with his catch can, which is what i was trying to explain in the diagram above. If you cannot be bothered reading through the entire thread then read these posts, as i feel that they are some of the most important in the thread to get an understanding of what is actually happening inside the engine, which in turn is able to help us create a way in which to solve these problems. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/page-49#entry6798597 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/page-49#entry6798648 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/page-50#entry6929479 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/page-53#entry7157413 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/page-54#entry7159347 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/page-54#entry7181463 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/page-55#entry7208766 All the information in this above guide is purely my own thoughts/experiences on the whole RB oil control issue. Please do not take it as gospel and follow it to the letter. As always do your own research and come to the conclusion of what will suit you best based on your own setup. Big thanks to everyone who posted in this thread.

Read this roller coaster of a thread from front to back, what a journey. It seems like KiwiRS4T's setup utilising 2x sump fittings on the INTAKE side, and running each cam cover to a catch can is about the most well set up way that everyone can agree upon. I couldn't help that i had seen something like that before.

Reposting for readability haha.

Replacing the RB26 with a Rotor. Bold move. Brapbrapbrapbrap.

No worries mate, glad to help.

Those GKTech nuts i linked use a 19mm and there is heaps of space for the socket inside the wheel, no chance of it marking the inside.

http://www.gktech.com/index.php/open-ended-m12x1-25-lug-nuts.html These sounds exactly like what you are after. I used these on my R32 running R33 GTR rims with zero problems, was perfect.

is the fuel rail for 11mm or 14mm injectors mate?

Hi Mark, this is exactly the sort of advice that i am after! I have currently taken the head off the RB30 and am having trouble removing the crank sprocket. I am doing exactly like you suggested and keeping everything laid out as i take it off and marking everything and making sure it all goes back together the correct way. After reading about engine builds it seems that there is only 3 key things to keep in mind, clearances, weighting of components and following correct torque specs. I have a digital vernier and a torque wrench, so they should be enough to get me through i think. The worst part about this all is having never seen any of these components, knowing if something is rooted/good is hard, but i think common sense and the aid of the internet should get me through. What should i look for when i inspect the crank? Not sure how to tell if its in/out of specs. I was planning on cleaning the pistons/rods myself but just palming them off to a machine shop to do it for me, elbow grease would be no match for the chemicals they would use. Where do you suggest i get rings for the standard RB30E pistons? Also i measured my bores and they were all 86 +/- .01mm and they look fine so i don't think a hone is really necessary, unless its good insurance? Thanks for taking the time to respond mate, appreciated