iruvyouskyrine

Hi all. Let me preface this by saying that this is my first time doing anything like this. I have never done any work on an engine before and i am looking to make this a learning experience just as much as i want it to be a decent engine. I a very mechanically minded and am more than willing to give anything a shot. I always do hours and hours of reading making sure that i know pretty much as uch as possible before actually diving in and doing anything. I have spent probably 30 hours reading up on RB30 conversions and now i think that it is time to ask for some input from you guys as i still have some unanswered questions. For the build i will be using my RB25DET NEO head, 6boost highmount, X-spurt 100cc inj, Hypergear SS2, 44mm ext gate, E85 and the NIStune will be running the show. I will also be using a MLS standard 1.3mm headgasket and ARP head studs on either engine no matter what. The situation thus far. I have in my possession a known good running RB30 with 180xxx on the clock. I also have an RB30 that had a bottom end knock when it was removed with 170xxx km. Originally my plan was to tear down the known good block and get it cleaned (i presume this is what acid dipping does) and i would clean the rods/pistons up myself at home. I would then reassemble everything using cleaned stock parts, except for ARP main studs, head studs and rod bolts, and i would use a fresh set of ACL main and big end bearings. I wanted to tear it down to satisfy my information for knowing how things work and wanting to know how to disassemble/reassemble and engine just as much as for engine longevity. I was also going to shim the oil pump as per Simon-S14's RB30. Now after doing my research and seeing so many other guys running unopened bottom ends i am thinking i should just shim the oil pump, leave the bottom end completely unopened/untouched and put my 25 head on and see how it go, and when money permits tear down the old block and put the bearings and bolts in it and have a spare engine sitting hear waiting for the worst to happen. Any advice will be taken on board and is very much appreciated. Other questions i have (and yes i have read the RB30 DOHC PDF, and read almost every topic in the RB30 subsection) I know it is a bit of a science but can anyone give me a timing belt part number for a Neo head, standard thickness headgasket (1.3mm i believe) and the tensioner tapped as per the PDF? What size oil restrictors should i use for my Neo head, Superben has recommended blocking one single feed off and leaving the standard 2mm restrictor in place? Is it worth running the -10AN breather (not drain before i get flamed) line from the head into the sump as an extra precaution, i want to use the standard NEO PCV arrangement and don't really want to run a catch can but i certainly will if i have to. There will more than likely be other questions along the way, but i think those are enough for the moment. Any advice will be greatly appreciated and taken on board, as i said i like to make sure i am full bottle on things beofre just diving head first into them (if you don't count never having done any work on engine internals and wanting to tear one down and rebuild it haha ) If people like Superben, Simon-S14, Shooter, GTRPSI, r33_racer, Duncan, KiwiRS4T, luke_gtr etc can give feedback that would be excellent. TL:DR give a noob advice on his first engine build and he will be eternally greatful.

Sorry mate didn't realizes eBay doesn't exist in NZ. >_>

I certainly have seen his results mate, it's essentially what I am doing except fresh bearings and when the bottom end grenades I can reuse the studs again. Also you will be copping a lengthy PM soon, have quite a few questions saved up about the conversion as I too am doing a 25/30 NEO

I am putting together my 25/30 at the moment. Will be used for drifting so will see some constant high revving (will set rev limiter to 7000) and I was planning on just tearing the block down and cleaning everything (pistons/ring/rods). Will also be chucking in new ACL bearings all round. Is it worth going ARP main/head studs and rod bolts. Trying to toss up whether going ARP all round or reuse the standard gear. Any advice for a first timer appreciated

Was lookin for a 44mm one man. Any idea if a 44mm would fit the flange on the manifold?

Size of the gate?

PM a user in here called 'ScottyNM35' he will be more than happy to help you out at very good prices.

I am going to slightly disagree with you RBrennan25. Changing the speedo sender to a mechanical one is quite easy. All you need is a vice, hacksaw and vice grips and some loctite if you wish. Go to Nissan and tell them you want a D21 Navara mechanical speedo sender PN 32702-02G17 There is a guide in the net for this, it took me about half an hour to knock over, pretty easy. Not to say it might not be difficult for some but with a guide and a cando attitude anyone should be able to do it

I'm gonna say its your idle air valve. Put your head near the brake booster on the car and look at the engine. On the back of the intake plenum there is a thing bolted to it with 3 coolant/vacuum lines running to it. You should be able to see a Phillips head screw in there. Adjust that counterclockwise (I think) and that should fix all your problems. I know I had the same symptoms and it fixed mine straight away.

Tell me more about this 480hp turbo. Sounds like the old eBay special.

I'm on my phone now but when I get home I will put up a diagram from Nissan Fast for you. NEO's have a fuel pressure regulator, and a fuel damper set up. My engine came with no damper which caused a bit of confusion for me at first. But get some better pics if the engine and fuel rail and put them up.

Anyone reccomend a decent engine builder/machinist in Newcastle. I need to get my RB30 block tapped for the extra tensioner and the RB25 head welded up and an external oil feed tapped. I am really looking for someone who has done this before, don't want to much around and have someone do a half arse job on something so small. Any ideas are appreciated.

Hey mate great build thread, surely it has been tuned by now haha, how did it end up?

Excellent. I was wondering how much my 400l/ph Walbro E85 pump could support power wise. I run mine ECU triggered through a relay and it runs at 14v. Running it as a single intake pump just like the factory setup it seems that it should easily support my 350kw aim on E85.

Pretty sure that is not correct, happy to be proven wrong though as i don't want to spread false info!

Thanks for that! The external gate adapter (for lack of a better word) plate thingy that you provide stao, is it 3" V-Band outlet? If not can I buy a Kando GT3076 .82 rear housing and put it straight on? Thanks.

RB20DET Engine rebuilt approx 30,000km ago made 197kw on 14psi. No turbo/ecu/loom/ps pump - $650 Only thing is this engine is in pieces, broken down into blobk/head/sump/intake manifold and everything else is bagged and tagged. all parts are there just needs to be put back together. Couldnt keep it in one piece when i moved interstate. RB20DET Gearbox drove fine while is was in my car, slight whirring noise when in neutral but that is it - $350 RB20/25 DET Exedy heavy duty clutch has done 2000km + 1 dyno tune session $350 6x R33 GTR wheels, 17x9+30 4 brand new tyres 2 are suffed. $1600 4x Ford territory Stockies $200 2x Stern Viper wheels, unsure on sizes. Tyres are ruined Pictures to come soon. All located Newcastle Area, NSW. Ring/text on 0437133701

Top feed 3/4 length Xspurt 1000cc Scottynm35. Thread closed.

PM'd

How much power are you making Manuel? I saw how hard your car bakes, can you give a quick rundown of power/mods? ?

Bit of a thread bump going on here but has anyone else successfully done this? I would just like as much info as possible before i go ahead and try it. Seems like all that is needed is an adapter for R34 AAC/Idle valves, spacers (unsure on length) to space the standard neo fuel rail up. This is the plenum i was looking at purchasing. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-RB25DET-R33-R34-Skyline-Greddy-Style-Intake-Manifold-Plenum-RB25-GTST-/321340318306?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ad1602262&_uhb=1

Indicators? If so are they the full orange type?

Can confirm this works 100% I just completed all this work and I am now into the 6th hour of my 4th gear standstill and everything is going great! Still on the mang pedal as I type this.

Put your hand on* (Sorry I'm on my phone haha )

Get your car up to temperature, then out your hand in he radiator and move it around. You will understand what he means. On a standard RB radiator the hottest side will be the left (looking at the engine) because the input/output is on the same side of the radiator.