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iruvyouskyrine

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Everything posted by iruvyouskyrine

  1. Interesting. I do have a stock fan still sitting here, so may see how the GKtech one goes and if it's no good ill swap it for the stocker and see if it makes a difference. I'm doing winton drift matsuri this weekend and i will be taking 2 radiators, 2 clutch fans and a set of twin thermos. Surely that is enough to keep it cool? hahaha
  2. Hey mate, over the weekend i installed the GKTech steering rack spacer + lock washer. I put the steering rack spacer into the passenger tie rod as instructed and trimmed 13mm off the passenger tie rod. I also installed the lock washer into the drivers side. After doing this and trying to adjust for zero toe i still had loads of toe in. I then removed the lock washer from the drivers side and i still have a heap of toe in. I cut the passenger tie rod down like i was supposed to so i think i did it all right but not 100% sure, first time doing anything bar changing coilovers haha. Did yours do something similar? Probably not as i would assume the ikeya formula gear would have loads of adjustment. PS, i will be at winton for matsuri this weekend as well, definitely keen to come have a chat to you
  3. Wouldn't running more boost increase cylinder pressure? Or is the difference between 10 (standard) and 26 psi hardly worth noting when cylinder pressure is so high anyway?
  4. Not any real input, just a question. Wouldn't running ~26psi on a DE+T kill it very very quickly? I know running ethanol will help but surely running high comp and high boost would lead to extremely high cylinder pressures that the NA rods just can't cope with? Don't really know too much about all this stuff, hence the question. Genuinely curious.
  5. Was that 580kw with an AFM ( I would presume so as I don't think you can have a MAP sensor with NIStune?) if so which one? I'm assuming it would just be a standard sensor in a different diameter pipe recalibrated?
  6. I knew Neos ran hotter (to meet more stringent emissions standards?) than standard 25 but I still thought 110deg was excessive. Ideally I would like to keep it around 100 but if that is unreasonable without a huge cooling set up then ill just take reasonable steps to keep it down and monitor it. So anything under say, 115 deg is fine while thrashing it around the track? The other thing I was slightly worries about is how hot the intake plenum gets, I know it has coolant flow through the neck of it but it gets very hot, to the point of burning you hand if you leave it longer than a second. This is after a gentle 20 min cruise doing 100 on the highway.
  7. Should note those figures are running with no bonnet or front bar, it was a good 5-6deg hotter with the bonnet on.
  8. Hi all, looking for a decent radiator to chuck in my R32. I would like one that lets me retain the standard radiator shroud and doesn't cost me ridiculous amounts of money. Running a 52mm ebay special and would like to drop down to a ~42mm one so i can keep the shroud. 300+kw RB25DET Neo running ~20psi gets very hot on track. Was maybe 30deg ambient temp and was sitting around 92 at idle and got over 100 after 2-3 laps so i did cool down laps until it was back at low 90's. I am running a GKtech clutch fan also. Any advice welcome, thanks!
  9. But it will start to undo the harmonic balancer bolt if its too loose.
  10. Yes that's the location I would like it ideally but the sensor that came with my gauge is the wrong thread as you mentioned. Any idea what the thread in the intake manifold is?
  11. Not completely on topic but related to this question. Where should you run your water temp sensor, in the top radiator hose yes as that would be the hottest part of the system?
  12. Yes it is definitely the length that is the issue. I'm just surprised that I'm having the issue when it really doesn't seem to be that common when plenty of people run GT30's on a standard manifold. Yes I am running a steel spacer and 2x T3 gaskets I got from denco diesel. The gaskets are just your average run of the mill gaskets. The only reason it keeps doing gaskets is that the turbo comes loose, losing its seal and the gaskets will obviously blow out before the cast iron does. I have a feeling it may be something to do with my exhaust though. It is a hack-together job and is only being held on by a single hangar and moves around a fair bit. Getting a proper exhaust made up in the next few weeks so having it hang properly will help alleviate the warped studs I should hope.
  13. Yeah they are a 'heat-proof' metal. If someone can point me in the direction of a M10x1.5 60+mm Inconel stud I would be more than happy to buy them. I purchased the MTQ 'GT30' stud kit but the studs are only 35mm (from memory) and are obviously way too short to use.
  14. Didn't end up going with these then johnny? My studs keep warping and turbo keeps coming loose even with locknuts. Thinking about just shelling out for these things and see how they go.
  15. Please let me know when you find some as my current stainless ones just warp and my turbo keeps coming loose. Hanaldo and others suggested trying to find Inconel studs are they are supposed to be heat proof?
  16. This is the pump you want. http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/walbro-fuel-pump-intank-walbro-450ltrhr-e85-compatible-f9000267-fitting-kit-4000085-p-1218.html
  17. http://www.cravedcoatings.com
  18. http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=shelve Shelve it. tee hee.
  19. No point. Its f**ked. New one should be here tomorrow
  20. Beautiful. That's exactly what I was already planning on doing, put a flexi joint in to save the exhaust from now on.
  21. I just purchased one today, so hopefully it only requires minimal modification.
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